Removing some really really baked on exhaust manifolds

[breezydun81]

I'm changing my exhaust manifolds and they are extremely baked on the bolts look like part of the manifold you can't see any shape just a smooth bump like if someone used Bondo and made it all smooth I'm letting it soak in PB blaster I'm going to hit them up about four times let it soak for an hour hit it up again and let it soak for an hour hit it up etc but I just don't want to break no heads off man cuz I am not an experienced driller to take them out rethread them or have the equipment to do it I tried once and that was on I a throttle body assembly and I didn't have the right equipment so I made the hole bigger than the actual bolt itself. Any suggestions, tricks , or help fellows??

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[LeesEvoX]

pucker up buttercup!! hahaha

Its going to be rough man. EXPECT to break a bolt. i changed the bolts on a truck with 100k miles, and ended up breaking a bolt. Luckily it broke with enough exposed metal to where i could grab it and remove.

If i were you. i would blast the bolts with some heat, this will help them loosen up when you start cranking.

 

[breezydun81]

pucker up buttercup!! hahaha

Its going to be rough man. EXPECT to break a bolt. i changed the bolts on a truck with 100k miles, and ended up breaking a bolt. Luckily it broke with enough exposed metal to where i could grab it and remove.

If i were you. i would blast the bolts with some heat, this will help them loosen up when you start cranking.

What could I use like a propane torch put it on there for a couple minutes and then use like a impact wrench or do you advise a ratchet instead of an impact wrench ??

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[WhiteExpress]

I would agree that you're in for a tough ride. If you can even manage to grab the bolts, I'd wager they're rusted solid. You said you're replacing the manifolds; might be better off cutting the heads (or what should be the heads) off with a grinder, sliding the manifold off and them backing the 'stud' out of the head.

 

[LeesEvoX]

What could I use like a propane torch put it on there for a couple minutes and then use like a impact wrench or do you advise a ratchet instead of an impact wrench ??

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an impact would be nice because the "impact" would help break free any contaminants. only problem is, you get all the torque.

I prefer a ratchet, just because you can feel it.

But yeah, a propane torch, or anything that can get some heat would be good. Im not talking like red hot steel.. but you need more than a lighter can provide lol

 

[breezydun81]

an impact would be nice because the "impact" would help break free any contaminants. only problem is, you get all the torque.

I prefer a ratchet, just because you can feel it.

But yeah, a propane torch, or anything that can get some heat would be good. Im not talking like red hot steel.. but you need more than a lighter can provide lol

That was good brother that had me cracking up you know you need more than just a lighter kid yeah but thanks bro I'll try that I'll use one of the propanes to get it heated up nice and warm and then I'll slap a ratchet on cuz yeah I'm afraid that the torque from the impact wrench will just snap the head right off.

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[LeesEvoX]

That was good brother that had me cracking up you know you need more than just a lighter kid yeah but thanks bro I'll try that I'll use one of the propanes to get it heated up nice and warm and then I'll slap a ratchet on cuz yeah I'm afraid that the torque from the impact wrench will just snap the head right off.

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Thats all you can do bud.

Just remember, if you feel the bolt start to bind up. PB Blaster that ****, and start turning clockwise again.

 

[Spike95]

When you hit it with the torch, concentrate the heat on the nut itself and not the bolt (at least as much as that is possible).

I like to use my little 3/8 cordless impact to gently hammer on stuff like this because it can help to break the threads loose without being strong enough to break the bolt. Even a few gentle taps with a ball peen hammer can help. I also like to clean up the exposed threads with a little wire wheel on a die grinder. That way, when you get the nuts loose, at least they won’t have to go past any more gritty surfaces than what is already inside them.

All that being said, if you aren’t reusing the manifolds, I wouldn’t hesitate to just cut them off so you still have enough to grab to pull them out of the heads.

 

[Christopher Scott]

I’m currently facing the same issue on my ‘07 Big Horn with the 4.7, except I’m planning on reusing my existing manifolds due to the fact that i can’t find any headers for this engine under $400... sucks big hairy donkey balls too cuz i see HELLA cheap sets for the 5.9 on eBay and Amazon, but for my engine they’re twice-three times as much!!
Anyone know of some cheaper headers available for the 4.7? I’m also deleting the catalytic converters utilizing spark plug non-foulers to trick the PCM as I’ve had good luck doing this with my Dakota Stampede Edition so long as i don’t use Bosch o2 sensors.

 

[Daw14]

I’m currently facing the same issue on my ‘07 Big Horn with the 4.7, except I’m planning on reusing my existing manifolds due to the fact that i can’t find any headers for this engine under $400... sucks big hairy donkey balls too cuz i see HELLA cheap sets for the 5.9 on eBay and Amazon, but for my engine they’re twice-three times as much!!
Anyone know of some cheaper headers available for the 5.7? I’m also deleting the catalytic converters utilizing spark plug non-foulers to trick the PCM as I’ve had good luck doing this with my Dakota Stampede Edition so long as i don’t use Bosch o2 sensors.

Does it have 5.7 or 4.7 you list both

 

[Christopher Scott]

4.7... also looking for some headers for it under $300 if they exist... feels like trying to find a unicorn right now foreal!!

 

[BWL]

I've been down this road and it was an unpleasant, curse filled tool chucking road, but I did successfully do them. The next time I needed them done on a different truck I dropped it off at the dealer, went for a walk, had lunch and picked it back up. It's such a common problem they have the tools and experience to do them quick even with a few broken studs. I don't know how many trips to town were involved the first time I did them for extractors, LH drill bits, die grinder to grind out the broken extractor, heli coil kit, band aids etc. Kroil and acetone mixed with brake fluid are the 2 best antiseize fluids I've used for getting rusted crap loose. Hopefully you'll be luckier than me. I'm only a mediocre mechanic. Shop did both sides in 3 hours and 4 studs were already snapped off when I dropped it off. I spent 2 days on it and probably more in broken tools and fuel going back and forth to town than the shop labour when I did them. If I had a few days off and a tight budget I'd try it again though. Just soak them longer, use heat and If they look like they are too weak to get loose just cut those ones off so I can grab them closer to the block once the manifold is off to remove with double nuts if I have threads or vice grips if I don't.

 

[Christopher Scott]

Thanks for the advice... & i think at this point I’m gonna take it!!... I’m gonna put the y-pipe back on and head to the local shop in town!! Cuz in my hours of attempting to get ONE BOLT off, i too have two bandaid ridden fingers, a backache like no other, and a head full of evil thoughts concerning what I’d like ta do to my newly acquired part of the family sitting unphased in my garage!! Lol

Thanks for the push ta do what i shoulda just done from the getgo but mistakenly assumed “aww, it’s just a LITTLE rust, it shouldn’t be that bad!” Lol

 

[Christopher Scott]

... scheduled for dropoff tomorrow, another $800 into the truck! SH{T

 

[BWL]

Lol, didn't mean to scare you.