Seriously, this would make a great "how to" topic. It would be a sticky for sure...
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The problem is, every vehicle is different due to the body build being different, inner to outer doors building different, doors installed on the vehicle differently, fitters at the plant being different. Its too difficult to make one step by step instruction. The concept is the same, the most basic point is that every panel needs to be approx 0.5mm over flush to the next towards the rear to allow the wind to travel over the panels instead of through the gap. You also need to make sure the weather strip has good compression. The paper test can point you out to problem areas. Use a 2" strip piece of paper by holding inside the upper door header and close the door, the paper should be tight and you should not be able to move it very easily, If it moves easy, the seal gap is too large which allows wind/water to enter the cabin. If the front door shows good flushness to the rear door (0.5mm over), then the door header can be bent. But this is the tricky part that i wouldn't recommend doing without experience. Doing this improperly can destroy the door.
The dealer might have an ultrasonic tester that they can use to detect where the leak is coming from. It emits an ultrasonic test inside the cabin, while the tech is outside with the doors closed with a wand type receiver and a headset which lets him/her hear the leak while they follow the door to door gaps, windshield perimeter, etc...
