Synthetic Oil

[Black1500Ram]

Hey oil guru's... given the differences in vii and such that i've learned happens even between different weight oils within the same brands, do you guys have any recommendations on non boutique 0w30 oils? (not for the ram). Given our general top I'm looking at M1 FS, PUP, Edge.

 

[Burn2k12Ram]

Hey oil guru's... given the differences in vii and such that i've learned happens even between different weight oils within the same brands, do you guys have any recommendations on non boutique 0w30 oils? (not for the ram). Given our general top I'm looking at M1 FS, PUP, Edge.

PUP all day everyday

 

[Travis8352]

Hey oil guru's... given the differences in vii and such that i've learned happens even between different weight oils within the same brands, do you guys have any recommendations on non boutique 0w30 oils? (not for the ram). Given our general top I'm looking at M1 FS, PUP, Edge.

The top non botique 0w30s would be belgian made castrol edge euro 0w30 and mobil 1 esp 0w30. Not Mobil 1 AFE that one is loaded with VII and its a thin 30 it shears to a 20wt in no time. Esp 0w30 is a fantastic oil and you can easily find it auto zone and advanced auto and more recently walmart and oreillys

 

[HEMIMANN]

The top non botique 0w30s would be belgian made castrol edge euro 0w30 and mobil 1 esp 0w30. Not Mobil 1 AFE that one is loaded with VII and its a thin 30 it shears to a 20wt in no time. Esp 0w30 is a fantastic oil and you can easily find it auto zone and advanced auto and more recently walmart and oreillys

Gohkan's extrapolated VII content calculations?

 

[Travis8352]

Gohkan's extrapolated VII content calculations?

Not sure on the AFE on gohkans chart but it shears like crazy on UOAs. Alot of folks seem to run AFE 0w30 over AFE 0w20 because it shears to a 0w20 quite quickly

 

[HEMIMANN]

Not sure on the AFE on gohkans chart but it shears like crazy on UOAs. Alot of folks seem to run AFE 0w30 over AFE 0w20 because it shears to a 0w20 quite quickly

Thanks for background. Haven't looked at many UOAs. Had been looking more @ 40 wt stuff for sheardown
Seems the 0Ws need close UOA scrutiny.

 

[goatdriver1957]

Your Question; "New to hemi and dealer does all my oil changes free of charge for life...I wonder what they will be using?"

"G", U Figure non-transferable 'free Oil Chges' for orig owner would be for an average life time being an Odo read'g of 150k (what? = 10 -15 changes.). Concern easy. I would be willing to bet there is no 'StealerShip' about to shoot themselves in the foot, risk reputation and litigation by pumping any lower fluid grades than requested by the owner's manual. We could all almost say, it will not be RP, but what they will use will get U to the next trade-in w/o fluid failure.

 

[Burla]

Seams like many people don't believe exhaust manifolds heat up very quickly so they falsely believe if tick goes away fast it has to be lifter tick, watch the first 10 seconds of this video, over all interesting video, but first part relevant to our hemi ticks. Yes the exhaust does heat seals up within ten seconds, meaning that tick can be from lifters or exhaust. The bottom line, the amount of time it takes for the tick to go away doesn't mean it has to be one tick or the other.

How Hot Does A Car Exhaust Get?

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youtu.be

 

[Wild one]

Seams like many people don't believe exhaust manifolds heat up very quickly so they falsely believe if tick goes away fast it has to be lifter tick, watch the first 10 seconds of this video, over all interesting video, but first part relevant to our hemi ticks. Yes the exhaust does heat seals up within ten seconds, meaning that tick can be from lifters or exhaust. The bottom line, the amount of time it takes for the tick to go away doesn't mean it has to be one tick or the other.

How Hot Does A Car Exhaust Get?

How Hot Does Your Car Exhaust Get?FLIR One Thermal Camera - http://amzn.to/2j2gnNhSubscribe for new videos every Wednesday! - https://goo.gl/VZstk7Products U...

youtu.be

Personally i still think the exhaust system behind the manifolds on the truck is a big contributor to breaking the bolts.Sure the expansion / contraction issue has a bit to do with it,but that doesn't explain why it's always the back bolts that break,plus if it was totally do to heat expansion,why don't the 5.7 cars break bolts,as they use basically the same cast iron log manifolds,"but" their exhaust system is a better designed system,that doesn't hang as much weight off the manifolds as the trucks exhaust system does. If bolt breakage was totally due to expansion/contraction how come the front or middle bolts don't break,just food for thought

 

[Burla]

just saying you cant diagnose tick based on first ten seconds at start up, could be exhaust or lifters. Guys are saying it must be lifters because the tick goes away so quick. Well you see the heat, it doesnt take long for the seals to swell up.

 

[Hemi395]

Personally i still think the exhaust system behind the manifolds on the truck is a big contributor to breaking the bolts.Sure the expansion / contraction issue has a bit to do with it,but that doesn't explain why it's always the back bolts that break,plus if it was totally do to heat expansion,why don't the 5.7 cars break bolts,as they use basically the same cast iron log manifolds,"but" their exhaust system is a better designed system,that doesn't hang as much weight off the manifolds as the trucks exhaust system does. If bolt breakage was totally due to expansion/contraction how come the front or middle bolts don't break,just food for thought

I agree, there's way too much weight on the back of the manifolds. The cats are right there along with the y pipe before a hanger takes any weight.

Do the cars system have a flex joint?

 

[Wild one]

I agree, there's way too much weight on the back of the manifolds. The cats are right there along with the y pipe before a hanger takes any weight.

Do the cars system have a flex joint?

The cars are a dual exhaust system with a X cross over way back at the mifflers,so each manifold is basically only supporting one cat and one pipe

 

[ramffml]

just saying you cant diagnose tick based on first ten seconds at start up, could be exhaust or lifters. Guys are saying it must be lifters because the tick goes away so quick. Well you see the heat, it doesnt take long for the seals to swell up.

Bleed down tick shows up on a cold start and usually turns off like a light switch, it's there for a second or two or 5, and then instantly its gone. It's also a tick that comes and goes, sometimes it's there when it's started up, other times it isn't. This tick is annoying but not necessarily a major problem, I get it still even with Redline 0/5w-30 and either RP 10-48 or 20-480 or Fram Ultra, none of that makes a difference for bleed down tick in my case. For me it's far more present in the winter time when I start, drive short distance where the engine only makes it to 50 degrees C, turn it off - then come back 1.5 hours later and start, boom there it is, like clockwork.

I believe both broken manifolds and lifter tick are there permanently, everytime you start your truck (manifolds on cold start) or hear it idle when hot (lifter tick).

So if you only hear your tick occasionally and it stops like a switch turned off, it's more than likely bleed down and "nothing to worry about".

 

[corneileous]

Well, I got my oil changed yesterday so we’ll see how this mobil one extended performance 5W 20 and that royal purple 10–48 oil filter does. So far the motor is just as quiet as it always has been so I guess time will tell over the course of the year when it’s time to change it again. I ended up only putting about 5500 miles on the truck last year so that’s all I got to run that Schaeffers supreme 9000 with the WixXP oil filter. As soon as I get my Blackstone report for the schaffers, I’ll post that over in the Blackstone thread.

Oh, and I finally got to try out the ValvoMax drain valve plug I put on last year. Works pretty good. Sure made it a lot easier taking the oil sample.

I’m real curious to see how the oil analysis comes back because being that I guess the Schaeffers doesn’t come in anything but a quart size bottle and a 5 gallon jug in 5w20 weight so wherever it was online that I bought it last year, 7 quart bottles cost 70 bucks and if I would have bought 7 individual quarts of the mobil 1 EP, that would’ve came out to around 60 bucks but being that I bought a 5 quart jug and two individual quarts, it was under $50 for the oil.

 

[Travis8352]

Well, I got my oil changed yesterday so we’ll see how this mobil one extended performance 5W 20 and that royal purple 10–48 oil filter does. So far the motor is just as quiet as it always has been so I guess time will tell over the course of the year when it’s time to change it again. I ended up only putting about 5500 miles on the truck last year so that’s all I got to run that Schaeffers supreme 9000 with the WixXP oil filter. As soon as I get my Blackstone report for the schaffers, I’ll post that over in the Blackstone thread.

Oh, and I finally got to try out the ValvoMax drain valve plug I put on last year. Works pretty good. Sure made it a lot easier taking the oil sample.

I’m real curious to see how the oil analysis comes back because being that I guess the Schaeffers doesn’t come in anything but a quart size bottle and a 5 gallon jug in 5w20 weight so wherever it was online that I bought it last year, 7 quart bottles cost 70 bucks and if I would have bought 7 individual quarts of the mobil 1 EP, that would’ve came out to around 60 bucks but being that I bought a 5 quart jug and two individual quarts, it was under $50 for the oil.

Looking forward to the schaeffers UOA! Schaeffers produces some of the finest wear metals in UOAs. I ran it for 2 ocis. Wish i ran a sample

 

[corneileous]

Looking forward to the schaeffers UOA! Schaeffers produces some of the finest wear metals in UOAs. I ran it for 2 ocis. Wish i ran a sample

Yeah if my analysis report comes back looking like that one @Burla posted in the Schaeffers thread a while back sporting over 300ppm of moly, that might be what I’ll automatically switch back to this time next year when it’s time to change the oil again just despite what the oil analysis says on the Mobil 1 EP.

Do you know if that Schaeffers 9000 Supreme is a group 4 full synthetic or is it just a group 3? I’m assuming it’s API certified and it says it’s Chrysler certified but it says MS 6395Q whatever the Q means.

 

[Travis8352]

Yeah if my analysis report comes back looking like that one @Burla posted in the Schaeffers thread a while back sporting over 300ppm of moly, that might be what I’ll automatically switch back to this time next year when it’s time to change the oil again just despite what the oil analysis says on the Mobil 1 EP.

Do you know if that Schaeffers 9000 Supreme is a group 4 full synthetic or is it just a group 3? I’m assuming it’s API certified and it says it’s Chrysler certified but it says MS 6395Q whatever the Q means.

A schaeffers rep told me in an email its "majority pao" which i would believe considering their synthetic blend supreme 7000 even mentions PAO in their data sheet. It is API certified as well and their 0w20 and 5w30 i believe have the dexos 1 cert to. It still contains 300 ppm moly and i believe even has titanium and boron as well. Its a well formulated oil

 

[HEMIMANN]

A schaeffers rep told me in an email its "majority pao" which i would believe considering their synthetic blend supreme 7000 even mentions PAO in their data sheet. It is API certified as well and their 0w20 and 5w30 i believe have the dexos 1 cert to. It still contains 300 ppm moly and i believe even has titanium and boron as well. Its a well formulated oil

No Schaeffer's around here. They from Texas? I guess you get anything online now anyway.

How do they differ from Amsoil, do you know?

 

[Travis8352]

No Schaeffer's around here. They from Texas? I guess you get anything online now anyway.

How do they differ from Amsoil, do you know?

Schaeffers is available at napa, they are based in st louis Missouri and their primary customers are farmers and big rigs. They seem to use a standard add pack but with high quality base oils and they use alot of moly and always have. Along with titanium and boron. I like them more than amsoil as im not interested in long drain intervals and its also cheaper

 

[HEMIMANN]

Schaeffers is available at napa, they are based in st louis Missouri and their primary customers are farmers and big rigs. They seem to use a standard add pack but with high quality base oils and they use alot of moly and always have. Along with titanium and boron. I like them more than amsoil as im not interested in long drain intervals and its also cheaper

Thanks, Travis. Might have to look into this. Esp. if they have 0W-30 for the American Siberia.