TIPM Connector Wire Mystery

[DFWRam]

2011 1500 SL, quad cab, basic truck with stab keys. I'm trying to figure out what this black wire goes to coming from the TIPM, Connector C4, pin 3.

I just added RKE and remote start with aftermarket FOBIKS and AlfaOBD, and all went well. RKE works great, but truck is not wired for the hood latch for remote start. Apparently I have one of the few Rams that didn't have that switch pre-wired. My plan is to wire the TIPM, Connector C4, Pin 3, to ground as a tactical solution, so I can make sure everything works before buying the hood latch and wiring it up right. However when I pulled the TIPM out and got a look at C4, there is already a black wire coming out of pin 3 and into the wiring harness. This should be empty.

I've spent 2 days searching and pouring over diagrams and I'm stumped. Everything shows this should be empty. Anyone know what this wire might be? Or any tips on how to trace it? I was hoping to avoid physically cutting into the harness and start tracing, but I guess that's next.

FWIW, there have been no mods on this truck. Bought it from my dad last year who has owned it since new. It has less than 60k miles on it.

Appreciate the help.

 

[SitKneelBend]

2011 1500 SL, quad cab, basic truck with stab keys. I'm trying to figure out what this black wire goes to coming from the TIPM, Connector C4, pin 3.

I just added RKE and remote start with aftermarket FOBIKS and AlfaOBD, and all went well. RKE works great, but truck is not wired for the hood latch for remote start. Apparently I have one of the few Rams that didn't have that switch pre-wired. My plan is to wire the TIPM, Connector C4, Pin 3, to ground as a tactical solution, so I can make sure everything works before buying the hood latch and wiring it up right. However when I pulled the TIPM out and got a look at C4, there is already a black wire coming out of pin 3 and into the wiring harness. This should be empty.

I've spent 2 days searching and pouring over diagrams and I'm stumped. Everything shows this should be empty. Anyone know what this wire might be? Or any tips on how to trace it? I was hoping to avoid physically cutting into the harness and start tracing, but I guess that's next.

FWIW, there have been no mods on this truck. Bought it from my dad last year who has owned it since new. It has less than 60k miles on it.

Appreciate the help.

This site might help you figure it out.

https://connectorrepairkit.mopar.com

It lets you search every connector on the vehicle and their associated wire colors.

 

[DFWRam]

Thanks. That's a great site. I wish it also showed the cavity numbers of the corresponding wires. That might help. But I already know I need cavity 3 which is held hostage by this mysterious black wire. And nothing I've seen indicates a black wire on Connector 4 in any posiiton. Guess it's time to break open the wire harness and see how far I can follow it.

 

[jawzs2]

Thanks. That's a great site. I wish it also showed the cavity numbers of the corresponding wires. That might help. But I already know I need cavity 3 which is held hostage by this mysterious black wire. And nothing I've seen indicates a black wire on Connector 4 in any posiiton. Guess it's time to break open the wire harness and see how far I can follow it.

Change the year to a 2009 - that lists the corresponding cavity numbers - I ran into the same thing working on my son's 2012

 

[DFWRam]

Thanks I did that. It lists the cavities but they don't correspond to thye same cavities I show in use on my 2011. The common thing in all the diagrams though is that pin 3 is the Hood Ajar Switch Sensor. On mine it's a black wire. So I went ahead and cut into the harness and found 5 wires (all black) coming of the back of C4 are actually just capped off inside the harness. Just placeholders I suppose for future add-ons.
One of those was Pin 3, so I spliced a wire onto that and grounded it at the fender body ground. Still no remote start. When I press start twice, it locks the doors but then fails to start. Next step is to go back and run through all the ALfaOBD settings to make sure I didn't miss anything, then do another WCM reset.

 

[DFWRam]

Updating this for anyone searching with a similar problem. I wired pin 3 from C4 on the TIPM to ground on the fender wall. Remote start would not work and did not store a code for Hood Switch Circuit High, or any codes. I put a 1k ohm resister in the line and boom - remote start fired right up. So people saying you don't need a resistor are not 100% correct. I guess it depends on your vehicle and if you already have enough resistance in the circuit.

 

[diymirage]

Updating this for anyone searching with a similar problem. I wired pin 3 from C4 on the TIPM to ground on the fender wall. Remote start would not work and did not store a code for Hood Switch Circuit High, or any codes. I put a 1k ohm resister in the line and boom - remote start fired right up. So people saying you don't need a resistor are not 100% correct. I guess it depends on your vehicle and if you already have enough resistance in the circuit.

on my 2017, i changed the hood latch switch setting from 1000 to 500 ohm, ground it and she fires right up

 

[DoughRat19]

Thanks I did that. It lists the cavities but they don't correspond to thye same cavities I show in use on my 2011. The common thing in all the diagrams though is that pin 3 is the Hood Ajar Switch Sensor. On mine it's a black wire. So I went ahead and cut into the harness and found 5 wires (all black) coming of the back of C4 are actually just capped off inside the harness. Just placeholders I suppose for future add-ons.
One of those was Pin 3, so I spliced a wire onto that and grounded it at the fender body ground. Still no remote start. When I press start twice, it locks the doors but then fails to start. Next step is to go back and run through all the ALfaOBD settings to make sure I didn't miss anything, then do another WCM reset.

They populate the connector with a wire to weatherproof it. Just came across this post and was going tot well you the wire most likely ends a few inches down the wire loom. Glad to see you figured it out.