TheEnder
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2017
- Posts
- 2,091
- Reaction score
- 1,640
- Ram Year
- 2013
- Engine
- 4.7L V8
This is just a list i’m compiling for people who want their vehicles transmission to last a bit longer and to make it a tad more fun to drive.
To start:
Valve Body Gasket Separator Plate - 40$ on eBay
The stock separator plate offers no protection from cross-leaks, and tends to help out with the VB OE Channel plate warping in high heat and causes many issues, especially with causing the ODs to burn themselves out.
Sonnax Oversized VB Accumulators/Thicker Accum Plate: 100$ on eBay
The stock VB accumulators don’t offer enough seal to them, so at higher line pressures the fluid blows through the seals on the sides and in most times causes the crappy tin can accumulator plate to blow off the side of the valve body which will make you lose all gears.
Oversized TCC Switch Valve: 57$ on eBay
The stock TCC Switch Valve in the Valve Body isn’t milled properly, so it scratches the bore and then ruins the VB entirely. It requires drilling, but its well worth it.
The channel plate is what’s going to kill you, they’re around 500-600$ for one. The OE one is fine if you keep your temps low and have a gasket on the VB. If you don’t have a gasket, you’re going to get cross-leaks at higher LPs and burn out clutches. The OE separator plate isn’t even good for stock engines as they offer no gasket and will cause leaks/warping in the future of the vehicle.
Reminder to check on how many check balls you have BEFORE you buy the gasket plate. If you have a GRAY solenoid connector, you have 5 check balls. FIVE check balls to CLARIFY. If you have a WHITE solenoid pack, you have 7 CHECK BALLS and will require a 7 CHECK BALL GASKET/SEPARATOR PLATE.
If you put a 7 CHECK BALL separator plate on a 5 check ball valve body, you will get codes P0846 and P0871, and will be sent directly into Limp Home mode. You may also get P0882. This is also the same if you put a 5 check ball sep plate on a 7 check ball.
You won’t do any damage as the vehicle recognizes this before any damage can be done, but you need to pay attention. When taking the screws off the VB, be sure to NOT STRIP THEM and to MAKE SURE THEY’RE GOING ON CORRECTLY. Any and i mean ANY amount of cross-leaking is NOT your friend and will only hurt you.
Now, to move on:
Sonnax Oversized OD Clutch Drum - 709$
The RFEs are known for weak OD clutches, as Chrysler didn’t put in enough to handle the power from the engines there behind. This is specifically geared (no pun intended) towards the Hemi, as the Hemi only makes 3 less pound feet of Torque than what the 65RFE is rated for at its max. Having a bad VB like stated before doesn’t help it out either.
68RFE Deep Pan (revmax): 369$
You DON’T really need this, but it helps out a lot.
The stock pan is way too shallow and the neck of the filter is way too close to the bottom for higher performance applications of the RFE.
If you shell out all the cash for the stuff above, you can expect your RFE to last as long if not longer than the 8sp. Good luck to all!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To start:
Valve Body Gasket Separator Plate - 40$ on eBay
The stock separator plate offers no protection from cross-leaks, and tends to help out with the VB OE Channel plate warping in high heat and causes many issues, especially with causing the ODs to burn themselves out.
Sonnax Oversized VB Accumulators/Thicker Accum Plate: 100$ on eBay
The stock VB accumulators don’t offer enough seal to them, so at higher line pressures the fluid blows through the seals on the sides and in most times causes the crappy tin can accumulator plate to blow off the side of the valve body which will make you lose all gears.
Oversized TCC Switch Valve: 57$ on eBay
The stock TCC Switch Valve in the Valve Body isn’t milled properly, so it scratches the bore and then ruins the VB entirely. It requires drilling, but its well worth it.
The channel plate is what’s going to kill you, they’re around 500-600$ for one. The OE one is fine if you keep your temps low and have a gasket on the VB. If you don’t have a gasket, you’re going to get cross-leaks at higher LPs and burn out clutches. The OE separator plate isn’t even good for stock engines as they offer no gasket and will cause leaks/warping in the future of the vehicle.
Reminder to check on how many check balls you have BEFORE you buy the gasket plate. If you have a GRAY solenoid connector, you have 5 check balls. FIVE check balls to CLARIFY. If you have a WHITE solenoid pack, you have 7 CHECK BALLS and will require a 7 CHECK BALL GASKET/SEPARATOR PLATE.
If you put a 7 CHECK BALL separator plate on a 5 check ball valve body, you will get codes P0846 and P0871, and will be sent directly into Limp Home mode. You may also get P0882. This is also the same if you put a 5 check ball sep plate on a 7 check ball.
You won’t do any damage as the vehicle recognizes this before any damage can be done, but you need to pay attention. When taking the screws off the VB, be sure to NOT STRIP THEM and to MAKE SURE THEY’RE GOING ON CORRECTLY. Any and i mean ANY amount of cross-leaking is NOT your friend and will only hurt you.
Now, to move on:
Sonnax Oversized OD Clutch Drum - 709$
The RFEs are known for weak OD clutches, as Chrysler didn’t put in enough to handle the power from the engines there behind. This is specifically geared (no pun intended) towards the Hemi, as the Hemi only makes 3 less pound feet of Torque than what the 65RFE is rated for at its max. Having a bad VB like stated before doesn’t help it out either.
68RFE Deep Pan (revmax): 369$
You DON’T really need this, but it helps out a lot.
The stock pan is way too shallow and the neck of the filter is way too close to the bottom for higher performance applications of the RFE.
If you shell out all the cash for the stuff above, you can expect your RFE to last as long if not longer than the 8sp. Good luck to all!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
