Wheel spacer problems

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Shelby

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I have been running bora wheel spacers problem free for the last 9 months and I recently got my tires rotated by discount tire and now the truck is vibrating up front.
It felt like the left driver tire so I took it off and noticed the wheel spacers bolts are digging into the rim.
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So how do the spacers fit just fine for 9 months and now after a tire rotation about 2 weeks ago I'm having issues with the bolts touching the rim?

I wonder if discount torquing down one rim all the way and not evenly tightening them caused this? But all the bolts seemed appropriately tightened down.

I know I could just cut the wheel spacer's bolts a little bit but I don't have a saw for that so it'll be paying a shop.


I took off the rim and put it back on and now it wet from a vibration to bumpy while driving so I know the vibration was comping from the wheel spacers.

Sorry that everything is out of order.
 

quietpeen

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I would wonder if they put different lugs on the spacers that stick out past the face of the spacer. How else could they dig into the wheel
 
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The spacer seemed fine, still tight up against the brake with the original lugs flushed inside it.

I didn't take a photo but it was obvious the bolts were touching the rim, and that's how it got worst because the bolts aren't back in the holes they created.

But it didn't feel any vibrations before, I felt them yesterday and today so that's when I took off the tire and noticed it.

I have been a long time reader and never heard of this happening.

And I don't know why it wouldn't cause problems until two weeks after
 
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Pic of the spacer would help to determine your problem.



I should of taken one and it's dark and cold now.

But the spacer is just how it should be, flush up against the wheel hub.
 

charonblk07

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That doesn't look like it's an issue with the spacer at all; those are the studs from the hub digging into the back of the wheel. The proper way to handle this is to trim the non-threaded part of the stud off with a grinder but if you don't want to do that then you will need to find the correct orientation of the wheel on the hub that made the initial indentations in the back of the wheel.


The reason you (surprisingly) didn't have issues is as you retorqued the spacers and wheels after initial installation you actually were wearing the stud into the wheel but when they were removed and replaced they were now out of the holes they had originally made. What I see there is the biggest reason that wheels fall off trucks with spacers/adapter, improper installation, and you have been damned lucky that the damage to your wheel is all that happened. Do it properly and trim the studs.
 
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How much do you think needs to be taken off?
I would rather buy a power saw and do it myself but I don't think I'll have day light time any this week.
Damn day light savings
 

Ronan

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How much do you think needs to be taken off?
I would rather buy a power saw and do it myself but I don't think I'll have day light time any this week.
Damn day light savings



Buy a cheap angle grinder with cutting and grinding wheels. Very useful tool..
 

charonblk07

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How much do you think needs to be taken off?
I would rather buy a power saw and do it myself but I don't think I'll have day light time any this week.
Damn day light savings

The studs should have a small non-threaded end on them, generally about 1/4", just take that off to start. Reinstall the spacer and torque it down, then take a straight edge and see if any of the studs are sticking up above the face of the spacer.
 

R.L.K.

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Quick tip on trimming the studs .

Temporarily install a lug nut on the stud prior to trimming it off , then back off the lug nut to help straighten the threads back out . Keep running the nut on & off Untill you can install it by hand only .
Hope this helps !
 
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Took off the tire.
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So it appears that the wheel stud barely pokes out.
 

Rustycowl69

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I know cutting or grinding the studs a little shorter is the way they should have been done originally, but why can't he grind or spot-drill for clearance, the areas on the back of the wheels where they are already boogered up?
 
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I am going to have to remove the wheel studs to cut them?

I watched a guy on youtube cut his wheel spacer studs off from the end and then grinded it down to round it back out.

I think I would prefer to do it that way and leave the studs on, but I wouldn't know how to hold the wheel to keep it from turning.
 
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I just put on bora 1.75 inch spacers today, I'm gonna have to check them and make sure they are gonna do this
 
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Wonder if discount tire caused it and if so, make them fix it.
 

charonblk07

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I believe inch and a half, but I have had my wheel studs replaced before so they might not be stock length



Those are stock length studs. 1.5" spacers require minor trimming of the oem studs unless your wheels have recesses in the back of them, which yours don't. You're just lucky that the second bolt pattern on your wheel allowed the aluminum to mushroom into that space instead of shearing the studs off like normally happens when somebody doesn't install spacers properly.

I know cutting or grinding the studs a little shorter is the way they should have been done originally, but why can't he grind or spot-drill for clearance, the areas on the back of the wheels where they are already boogered up?



trim a $4 stud or drill out a $400+ wheel? Your choice. Putting holes in the back of a wheel is also a great way to off-balance a wheel. Those are also fairly thin looking wheels, drilling out more of that material is just begging for stress fractures in the main load bearing area of that wheel.

I am going to have to remove the wheel studs to cut them?

I watched a guy on youtube cut his wheel spacer studs off from the end and then grinded it down to round it back out.

I think I would prefer to do it that way and leave the studs on, but I wouldn't know how to hold the wheel to keep it from turning.



No, you can trim them on the vehicle. I trimmed my studs on the vehicle with no issues, you do have to remove the spacer though. If it's the front tires just put it into 4wd and that'll lock the front diff so the wheel doesn't turn. I didn't lock mine, just held the hub with one hand and the grinder with the other. Use a grinder not a sawzall (power saw), studs are hardened and will take forever and multiple blades with a sawzall.


Don't forget to check your other wheels that have spacers, they probably have the same issues.

Wonder if discount tire caused it and if so, make them fix it.



Nope, this is who ever installed your spacers, not Discount Tire. If they installed the spacers then yeah, you might have a leg to stand on but most shops refuse to install spacers.
 

Ronan

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1 7/8 shouldn't have to trim at all, OP,spot drilling the wheel would also work , but personally I would cut the studs as they are much cheaper to replace. Not sure why anyone would choose to drill the wheel though. I would just flush your studs , use some blue loctite and call it a day.
 
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Well lucky I have tomorrow off. Forgot about that. So going to Lowes and buying a grinder. Or maybe since I'm onlying using it one time. Harbor freight
 
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