My "low fluid" warning light stayed on even with a full tank, so I pulled the grill to get a good look at the layout. There is no float, which boggles my mind. Temporarily, I pulled the wired plug on the sending unit, put a staple (by hand) from a HD staple gun in to bridge the connection, and my light stays off. A note here. It did not go off instantly. I had to turn the ignition off, but when I turned it back on, the light stayed off. When I emptied the tank to check out the sending unit, I saw there is no float, just two metal tabs protrude from the sending unit into the tank. Apparently, when the fluid gets below the tabs, it triggers the warning light. I bought a new sending unit today from a dealer (under $6.00), but have yet to put it in. Before going to all the effort to reinstall, I tried to "bench test" the new sending unit by using a continuity tester. If I bridge the tabs with wired alligator clips and then connect the leads of the tester to the terminals of the sending unit, I get a "beep" showing continuity, but... I tried submersing the sending unit in water and then actual washer fluid, to represent normal conditions, and neither would show continuity. There I'm afraid, I get stuck. How can water or washer fluid bridge the gap, unless it does, but just doesn't have enough "matter", to show a reading on a continuity tester? I will have to ask someone with way more knowledge than me to figure that out. If I get an answer or a solution, I will post it. One more cautionary note. If you pull the grill, there are two clips that hold the lower outermost tabs of the grille to the frame work. They are apt to get damaged, and the local dealer could not find replacements. I have a query out to an online seller where I bought a replacement grille to see if they can produce them.