tones2SS
Senior Member
That looks great!
What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?
- Thread starter VolsRam
- Start date
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carlcochran79
Senior Member
Installed Husky mud guards front and rear
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tones2SS
Senior Member
So, I have to ask,.....how hard is the install??
I added a clutch pedal extension on my '13 Roush Stage 3 Mustang and that was a bit of a pain. Easy enough, just a pain. lol
co-pilot
Senior Member
Thanks.....yeah install was a little bit of a pain.....but really not that bad.....
R4MSp0rt16
Member
New wheels and tires!
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Finally got some free time on a CNC machine at work and made a new ignition bezel. Posted more pics in the lounge area.
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/custom-cnc-part-for-truck-what-next.142772/
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/custom-cnc-part-for-truck-what-next.142772/
chrisbh17
Senior Member
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WITH my 4th gen - picked up new garage doors (7 foot tall instead of the previous 6.5 foot tall)
FOR my 4th gen - enlarged one of the garage openings to fit the 7 foot door, so my 4th gen ACTUALLY CLEARS going into my garage now
Will work on the 2nd door when weather permits (which at this point might not be until August)
FOR my 4th gen - enlarged one of the garage openings to fit the 7 foot door, so my 4th gen ACTUALLY CLEARS going into my garage now
Will work on the 2nd door when weather permits (which at this point might not be until August)
WITH my 4th gen - picked up new garage doors (7 foot tall instead of the previous 6.5 foot tall)
FOR my 4th gen - enlarged one of the garage openings to fit the 7 foot door, so my 4th gen ACTUALLY CLEARS going into my garage now
Will work on the 2nd door when weather permits (which at this point might not be until August)
Any pics of the process of raising the door opening? I came close to hiring someone to do it at my previous house. Seemed like it would be really expensive and a lot of work.
circuitguy
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During my garage sale this morning my wife said she wanted to learn how to do a donuts. I have not done one in quite a while "20 years or so" so I tried my first today in the school parking lot across from my house. Started with a brake stand, made lots of smoke "factory Goodyear tires" and almost a full 360. And yes I proved the posi in my Ram does work!
chrisbh17
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Did not take any pics, but can describe it!
In my case, I have 2 single car doors (2 car garage but not one big single door). Each opening is 9' wide, with a double 2x8 header across them. The header only rested on 1 cripple stud on each side.
I pulled the vinyl siding off around the opening last night. There was some brick molding, etc behind it. I removed that too. Also pulled about 2' of siding *above* the opening just to make sure I had room to work. Also made sure to take off any trim boards that were attached to the rough opening, so I got down to the cripple studs on the sides and the header on the top. Also, in anticipation of the header being gone, I created a temporary wall about 2' back from the door, top of the studs screwed into the roof joists (matching the angle of them), bottom of the studs into a 2x4 "plate" and then I sledged the thing in place to make sure it could carry the load once we removed the header. That might have been unnecessary, because the header was only one for 30 minutes or so, but I wanted to be sure.
The header being about 7.5" tall, I chalked a line on the outside of the house about 7.5" higher than the bottom of the header. Followed that line with a 7.25" circ saw, which JUST about got me the depth I needed to cut straight through. I followed up with a sawzall in the blade cut that was made by the circ saw to finish getting through: insulation that was behind vinyl siding + original wood siding + insulation behind that + exterior sheathing. Once through, the only thing holding the header in were the knee wall studs above the header (to the sill plate where the garage roof joists land) and the nails from the cripple and king studs into the header. Cut those out with a sawzall and then the header was almost free (I left a little of the sheathing attached to the header, to make the next step easier)
Cut a wedge into each of the cripple studs, so when we released the header it would wedge itself into the opening instead of just dropping. That worked perfectly.....controlled fall, if you will. Then I could get on the ground and carry it safely. Then I replaced the cripple studs with longer ones to make sure the height off the ground was now 84" (7 feet)
My old doors were 6'6", new ones are 7'0". So I knew I needed to open it up 6" (I know, seems like a lot of work for just half a foot, but 7.5' or 8' tall doors are a whole other realm of cost and availability....I got 3-layer 9'x7' Clopay doors from HD for 400 each). I cut back the knee wall studs about 6", the sheathing didnt need to be touched because we cut it out with the header....just had to peel it back from the header itself. First couple tries didnt work so well....we didnt cut the knee wall studs level, so it cleared some but hit most. After cutting back some more, eventually we got it to fit. Header now rested on the new taller cripple studs, Im going to pick up some Simpson ties to tie the knee wall studs back into the header. Thinking back on it, I should have just removed the knee wall studs and replaced them completely once the header was back in place.
The rest was just installing the new door....tracks, panels, etc. Its not 100% complete, but the tracks and panels are in and standing by themselves. have not added the cabling or door opener stuff yet, will probably finish tomorrow.
Was it worth it? Well, I havent gotten my truck in there yet, and I will still need to re-trim the outside (or pay a siding guy to do it), but I think it will be....even if just to change oil, etc Ill now be able to do it outside of the weather. Its a PITA getting under a truck in the cold, especially when your 2 car garage is literally 2" too short to clear.
First pic is after the header was raised... You can see the new pressure treated cripple studs on each side, and can see the temp wall in the background.
Second pic is with the door installed.
Third pic is from the inside with the original door, showing the "knee wall" above the header.
I will get more pics tomorrow as it's dark out now.
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Wow that is a hell of a lot of work. Way out of my skill level! Looks and sounds like you did a great job.Did not take any pics, but can describe it!
In my case, I have 2 single car doors (2 car garage but not one big single door). Each opening is 9' wide, with a double 2x8 header across them. The header only rested on 1 cripple stud on each side.
I pulled the vinyl siding off around the opening last night. There was some brick molding, etc behind it. I removed that too. Also pulled about 2' of siding *above* the opening just to make sure I had room to work. Also made sure to take off any trim boards that were attached to the rough opening, so I got down to the cripple studs on the sides and the header on the top. Also, in anticipation of the header being gone, I created a temporary wall about 2' back from the door, top of the studs screwed into the roof joists (matching the angle of them), bottom of the studs into a 2x4 "plate" and then I sledged the thing in place to make sure it could carry the load once we removed the header. That might have been unnecessary, because the header was only one for 30 minutes or so, but I wanted to be sure.
The header being about 7.5" tall, I chalked a line on the outside of the house about 7.5" higher than the bottom of the header. Followed that line with a 7.25" circ saw, which JUST about got me the depth I needed to cut straight through. I followed up with a sawzall in the blade cut that was made by the circ saw to finish getting through: insulation that was behind vinyl siding + original wood siding + insulation behind that + exterior sheathing. Once through, the only thing holding the header in were the knee wall studs above the header (to the sill plate where the garage roof joists land) and the nails from the cripple and king studs into the header. Cut those out with a sawzall and then the header was almost free (I left a little of the sheathing attached to the header, to make the next step easier)
Cut a wedge into each of the cripple studs, so when we released the header it would wedge itself into the opening instead of just dropping. That worked perfectly.....controlled fall, if you will. Then I could get on the ground and carry it safely. Then I replaced the cripple studs with longer ones to make sure the height off the ground was now 84" (7 feet)
My old doors were 6'6", new ones are 7'0". So I knew I needed to open it up 6" (I know, seems like a lot of work for just half a foot, but 7.5' or 8' tall doors are a whole other realm of cost and availability....I got 3-layer 9'x7' Clopay doors from HD for 400 each). I cut back the knee wall studs about 6", the sheathing didnt need to be touched because we cut it out with the header....just had to peel it back from the header itself. First couple tries didnt work so well....we didnt cut the knee wall studs level, so it cleared some but hit most. After cutting back some more, eventually we got it to fit. Header now rested on the new taller cripple studs, Im going to pick up some Simpson ties to tie the knee wall studs back into the header. Thinking back on it, I should have just removed the knee wall studs and replaced them completely once the header was back in place.
The rest was just installing the new door....tracks, panels, etc. Its not 100% complete, but the tracks and panels are in and standing by themselves. have not added the cabling or door opener stuff yet, will probably finish tomorrow.
Was it worth it? Well, I havent gotten my truck in there yet, and I will still need to re-trim the outside (or pay a siding guy to do it), but I think it will be....even if just to change oil, etc Ill now be able to do it outside of the weather. Its a PITA getting under a truck in the cold, especially when your 2 car garage is literally 2" too short to clear.
First pic is after the header was raised... You can see the new pressure treated cripple studs on each side, and can see the temp wall in the background.
Second pic is with the door installed.
I will get more pics tomorrow as it's dark out now.
Well worth it to get the truck in there though.
chrisbh17
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I managed to not jinx it and say it WHILE we were working, but it went really smoothly, even better than I thought it would go. Its a lot of work, but it wasnt HARD work, just tedious. When the header wouldnt fit back in was a bit annoying, but we managed. And since I will have to do the other door eventually, I will just plan on removing the studs altogether, put the header back in and then just measure and cut brand new studs. Would have saved a bunch of time.
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I'd love to make them for anyone who wants one. I would need to find a shop to do it though. I can't crank these out on equipment that isn't mine when I have work to do lol!
I'm trying to think of a really cool part to make for our trucks though. The sky is the limit! I'm just not very creative sadly lol
Hard part is finding time to sit down and design stuff.
I am thinking shift knob next. If anyone has an extra laying around, I'll buy it from you.
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zeb handeland
Member
What kinda cost/shipping charges?
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Booner21
Senior Member
1 to 6.5 of morphine potency wise very similar otherwise.
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BruceMorgan
Senior Member
I took my RAM into the mountains today scouting dirt bike riding locations. I don't think I'll ride Evans Creek ORV near Mt. Rainer anytime soon. Still a good amount of snow on the ground in spots, plus lots of fast jeeps and Polaris type ATVs blasting around the trails. Maybe later this summer.
This is the first time I drove the RAM with my KTM on the back. The weight dropped the rear 1" so I offset that with 25psi in the Timbrens (edit: sorry Timber Grove airbags). The truck drove like there was nothing on the back; no jounce or porpoising at all. That's quite a contrast to my old Frontier, which really felt the 350 lbs hanging off the hitch.
This is the first time I drove the RAM with my KTM on the back. The weight dropped the rear 1" so I offset that with 25psi in the Timbrens (edit: sorry Timber Grove airbags). The truck drove like there was nothing on the back; no jounce or porpoising at all. That's quite a contrast to my old Frontier, which really felt the 350 lbs hanging off the hitch.
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predat-r
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Drove down to NC with a few friends spent a wk riding. Great trip now looking to leave PA took mom's out for dinner lastnight. Loading up the truck one last time.
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Hooligan!During my garage sale this morning my wife said she wanted to learn how to do a donuts. I have not done one in quite a while "20 years or so" so I tried my first today in the school parking lot across from my house. Started with a brake stand, made lots of smoke "factory Goodyear tires" and almost a full 360. And yes I proved the posi in my Ram does work!
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