Googlifying my truck

Ok, so, first time truck owner here, and first time doing any real modification to a vehicle. I started with just a simple idea. A cheaper than OEM backup camera for my truck. But, it kind of grew, into a bit more than that. So, what did it end up being?

So far....
- a dashboard camera
- a tailgate camera
- a trailer rearview camera (not installed yet, crappy weather outside)
- a mini-DVR with 4 audio/video inputs for simultaneous record and playback
- an LCD interior mirror to play the video onto
- front and rear add-on distance sensors
- OEM internal switch panel for the dashboard console
- custom connectors for the tailgate camera and trailer rear view camera
- side cameras (not installed yet)
- spare switch leading out to a switching wire in the engine compartment for later addition of fog lights

Kudos to myoung84 for this post:

OEM 4 Button AUX Switch Panel - DODGE RAM FORUM - Dodge Truck Forums

You completed the puzzle for me trying to figure out how to cleanly install the switching I wanted.

Why did I do what I did? Sort of for fun, but we plan to do a lot of camping, and I wanted some good old fashioned video evidence in the event of a nasty collision. Also, it started to get fun.... I didn't know anything about auto electrical systems when I started. Learned a bunch. Thank goodness for google, and this forum. See my oops post here, for a fun little warning about relays. At least the ones I bought .

Noob question about relays.... - DODGE RAM FORUM - Dodge Truck Forums



So, what happens now...

When I start the truck, my mini-DVR comes on automatically. It powers any cameras connected to it, and starts recording whatever it sees. With a built in GPS and g-shock sensor, the DVR saves a bunch of the recordings in the case of a collision. Also, my dashboard camera comes on automatically as well, and with it's own separate GPS and g-shock sensor also (built into the sweet HD unit) and also saves it's own files in the event of a collision.

The mini-DVR output is routed to the mirror (and a split video signal out, which I'll explain why later), and by default shows the tailgate camera. I use the OEM switch to control whether or not the LCD mirror displays a normal mirror, or displays the image from the mini-DVR. Using a remote control for the mini-DVR, I can switch to any of the other live video feeds, just to check them. Using the OEM switch, I control the power to the mirror LCD, and therefore whether I see the image from the appropriate camera.

Also, my front and rear distance sensors are controlled using the OEM switch panel. I can activate them both independently, and have mounted the speakers for them in different areas of my dash, so I hear the locations differently. I wanted them manually activated, as there will be times I don't want to hear the beeping, like backing up to my trailer.

Speaking of when I have the trailer, once I'm all hooked up, there's little point in seeing the tailgate camera, right? Built me a fancy shmancy connector using a standard 4pin trailer hitch combo that allows me to unplug the tailgate camera, and plug in the camera connected to the rear of the trailer. Instant trailer backup camera , that survives any nasty weather or distance challenges. Plus, I can put the image on the LCD mirror any time while driving to see what's behind me . Sweet.

I'm going to post the parts list, a diagram, and some pics along with some things I did along the way, in case anyone finds it useful.

The parts

These are most of the parts I used. The significant ones, anyway.

The parts:

- mini-DVR
4CH Realtime H 264 2CH D1 GPS G Sensor Mobile Car Vehicle CCTV DVR SD Storage | eBay


- dashboard camera
Mini 0801 Ambarella A2S60 Chip 1080p 30fps Car DVR Recorder with Build in 8g | eBay


- tailgate camera
Pyle PLCM23IR Flush Mount Rearview Night Vision Camera with Distance Scale Line | eBay

- trailer camera
Waterproof IR Night Vision License Car Rear View CCD Camera Back Up Reverse Cam | eBay

- side mirror cameras
Car Vehicle Rear View Side Front Camera Back Up Spy Mini Cam Wide Degree | eBay

- LCD mirror
5" LCD TFT Car Rear View Mirror Monitor for Backup Reverse Camera DVD VCR | eBay

- front and rear distance sensors
Hopkins Backup Sensor System - Audible Alert - License Bracket Mount Hopkins Electronics HM60100VA

- Multi-pack of relays
X3 Lot of 12 Volt Premium SPDT Relays Sockets Car Alarm 40 30 Amp 40A 30A 12V | eBay

- some generic plastic casing boxes for creating the power buses
- lots of 12AWG cable
- lots of 16AWG cables
- a whack of different audio connectors and adapters
- a T-connector for the in-line fuse box connection

i have a backup camera that i got for 110 at autozone or advanced... and the screen is in the mirror... i actaully like this setup and think it is more beneficial IMO

No EE background, but thanks to several of the users in this forum with some examples, made this diagram. I used a temp license of SmartDraw (it is really Smart).



Made a couple of in-field mods as I was installing it, so the license ran out before I could update it.



One change is that the 12volt receptacle for the dashboard camera actually now powers off a relay (similar to the other switched components). That relay does not show in this diagram.



Also, for the spare switch port on the OEM diagram, I fed the line coming from the switch back out to the truck engine compartment, and coiled it there. Thinking I'll put some fog lights in later, and will put that relay in the engine compartment directly. This will let me still control them from inside the cab.



Wiring Diagram.pdf



This diagram is actually easier to read if you print it out. PDF link above is full resolution.

I fit the mini-DVR into the glove box. Cut into the glovebox with my dremel. Had to create a cutting template with a lot of measuring, and then figure out best place to cut the holes in the glove box without wrecking the strength integrity of the glove box.

1) Hole at the back of the glove box



2) Out of dash with cabling



3) What it looks like from the front of the glove box.



I used some metal brackets underneath to bolt the unit to the base to make it harder to remove, if someone were to try and do so.

For the tailgate camera, I followed some of the other suggestions I saw, and took apart the lock mechanism. Inside, the lock mechanism has a pre-marked hole for a round camera, so I just drilled it out, using the bit that came with the tailgate camera. It worked beautifully. A very snug fit, and then brought the wire down through the shell of the tailgate to the rear hitch to connect later.



1) Taking apart the tailgate.





2) The tailgate handle, prior to drilling.






3) The camera installed, and the tailgate back on.







One thing to note here, is that I used a standard 4 pin trailer hitch to actually hook up the tailgate camera. As I stated in the initial post, I wanted to be able to disconnect this one, and connect the trailer camera instead. I am using cabling as I'm worried regarding weather, and I want to be able to select one camera or the other while traveling (ie, not dynamically switch back and forth).



This is a pre-cabling look at the connector. Two of the 4 pins are used to transmit power, the other two are for the video itself. It really doesn't matter which you use, as long as they all match . I built them all at the same time, so that I wouldn't screw it up, and built a spare just in case.

I utilized the spare clutch plate and drilled a hole in it for all cabling that had to go into the cab from the engine compartment, as suggested in numerous other posts.



1) For inside the cab, I created three power junction boxes.






2) For connection to the 12V switched circuit, I had to hunt around in the fuse box to identify a switched circuit, but once I found it, I put the T connector on it. Can't remember the name of the actual part, but here's a picture, showing the circuit I used. It's the one that goes to the switched power outlet.






3) For the 12V 20A always on, I bolted a separate wire directly to the + terminal on the battery, with a fuse of course.






4) This is what the ungodly mess inside the console looked like before I closed it all up. I did spend a lot of time labeling each cable, so that I could remember what it was for later, and many of the connectors inside were hooked up with the quick connect tabs, so that if I had to change them, it would be easier to do so.

1. Windshield showing fairly subtle dashboard camera
   
   
   
2. Front license plate distance sensor
   
   
   
3. Tailgate camera in tailgate lock
   
   
   
4. Rear license plate distance sensor and camera connecting cable
   
   
   
5. Close up of trailer hitch tailgate camera connector
   
   
   
6. Assembled console focusing on OEM switch panel
   
   
   
7. Assembled console showing mini-DVR more clearly
   
   
   
8. Daylight shot of mirror with no camera image. Also shows cabling coming from mirror and dashboard camera
   
   
   
9. Night image of mirror showing tailgate camera image on LCD mirror
   
   
   

Ok, I think that's it. If there's anything I can clarify, or if you have comments, would sure appreciate them. Thanks.

Youve done a lot of the same things i want to do..

Few questions.

Sensors - can you hear them inside? How well does it detect items off to the side of your bumper at an angle, since thr wider sensors dont exist?

Mirror - how is the mirror during the day in reverse? Any pics with it on? How is the mirror overall compared to the oem mirror, as a mirror?

Ive been wanting to do these but havent seen anyone who has taken the plunge and written reviews. Im excited to see what your reviews are..

Sensors - I extended the cabling to put in the manual switch and also to add speaker cable so I mounted both speakers in the cab. Front sensor left side of dash, back sensor right side. When they are both on, I can distinguish. Even on the low setting, they are LOUD . As far as angle goes, haven't measured it, but I'm surprised by how wide the angle is, even with the one inset in the back. It pretty much matches the visual green lines on my tailgate camera.

Mirror - don't have a shot using image during day, but it's pretty good. You have to focus on the image, but clear. It's about 1/4 to 3/4 inch wider than standard mirror. Even though flipping it doesn't change the image like the standard mirror, there's some kind of anti glare coating on it, which minimizes night glare.



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Sorry for so many updates to the posts. Had a lot of problems with the images for some reason. Finally found Tapatalk, and it's made it a lot easier to manage them.


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This is a photo taken during day. With my eyes, a lot clearer. I think the camera is getting a little confused with the bright background. If I can get a better shot with my DLSR, will do so




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Thank you! I think im going to pull the trigger.

Side note.. I don't want a front plate,. but i'd LOVE to have sensors in the front. From what you can tell, can the sensors be removed from this plate and perhaps mounted in the space between the tow hooks, or similar, in your opinion?

Hmm. Not really sure. Away from home for a few days, back this weekend. I have a feeling there is some circuitry in the plate housing, but can't recall. Etrailer is really good at answering questions, though.


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I have parts, about to install.

Where did you power the mirror? Did you power in one of your 12v switched boxes?

I need to find switched power in the cab.

Also, where did you come in to the truck with the video wires for the rear cameras?

I found a OEM tailgate backup camera on Ebay and was wondering if it is plug and play? I have a 2014 1500 tradesman with a 5.0 uconnect stereo, any help would be great!

DatacomGuy: I used the 12v switched circuit to power the OEM switch panel, and there to a relay that powered the mirror through an unswitched power supply. Make sense? If you look at the circuit diagram , it makes more sense. I couldn't find switched power in the cab, so I brought it in, using the same place I came in with the video. I came in through the unused clutch panel in my firewall. The Dodge Rams seem to have them in late model vehicles. It's up towards the top of the firewall to the right when you pop the hood. I found other posts that detail that empty panel. If you have trouble finding it, let me know?


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Rherman1: I'm afraid I don't know anything about the OEM camera or the Uconnect stereo. All the parts I used are standard video in / out. Not sure if that helps.


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Found switched power under driver seat.

Did you have to drop the headliner to hide connectors or harness or anything for you mirror? Mine has a bulky pigtail i have to hide.

Also, the video cable isnt near long enough so now i need to buy a longer one. Any idea how long yours is? I may go 50ft and call it a day.

Good news about the under seat power. Didn't think to check there. Noobie, and all.

I didn't have to drop the headliner, mine has pretty wide channels already present for cabling,

Which video cable do you mean, the one from the tailgate cam to the recorder inside? I used a 25ft cable for that extension. That, in conjunction with the cable already part of the camera was long enough to come in and through the firewall. Mine's a short box with a crew cab, so not sure of exact distance.

My mirror had a relatively short cable on it, too. I used (I think) a 2-3 meter extension on it to loop to the recorder. I was able to push the pigtail and the extension into the headliner directly by pulling it up through the door frame side first, and then along to the centre. This way, the RCA connector to the pigtail kind of slid inside the channel in the headliner on the door frame side, which had a relatively large gap between headliner and roof, and the thin part of the pigtail was able to be pulled along the gap between the headliner and the window, until I got to the center. Not at home, so I can't even try and take a pic to show what I mean, but hopefully, the words make sense. I wrapped a small amount of plastic electrical tape around the RCA connector for the pigtail and the extension, so they didn't pull apart while I slid it along the channel.



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