2\4 MaxxTrax Drop, recommended items

[SteveCornell]

I have a 2" \ 4" MaxxTrax spring lowering kit to install on my 21 RCSB 2WD RAM Classic
the kit comes with the panhard bar relocation bracket and new rear shocks.
I also have the BellTech 4923 Bump Stops

What other items should I install??
Adjustable Lower or Upper Trac Bars?
Adjustable Panhard Bar? (instead of the supplied bracket)?
Factory front shocks ok with 2" drop?
Anything else I should consider???

Thanks!!

 

[1SloRam]

Relocation brackets from IHC or your rear wheel will be shifted forward and you’ll get the death wobble.
Some care, some don’t.

 

[SteveCornell]

Relocation brackets from IHC or your rear wheel will be shifted forward and you’ll get the death wobble.
Some care, some don’t.

Can't the same thing be accomplished with adjustable track bars?

 

[Dragonsteel]

Can't the same thing be accomplished with adjustable track bars?

The geometry will be off, think of two parallel lines shoved up on one end and then your suspension moves upward from there. The IHC kit brings the arms back to being close to a leveled parallel.

 

[SteveCornell]

The geometry will be off, think of two parallel lines shoved up on one end and then your suspension moves upward from there. The IHC kit brings the arms back to being close to a leveled parallel.

Gotcha!! Thanks, I'll add those to my list!

 

[1SloRam]

The geometry will be off, think of two parallel lines shoved up on one end and then your suspension moves upward from there. The IHC kit brings the arms back to being close to a leveled parallel.

Exactly what I was gonna say.
Thanks @Dragonsteel
IHC offers bolt on or weld on kits.
If you’re not going lower than 2/4 you don’t need the weld on kit. I think even 3/5 is “ok” with bolt on.

 

[abouttobeglue]

You'll need an adjustable panhard bar as well. I went with core 4x4s, its a beefy *******, I did relocation brackets that illicit used to make. Also added their upper and lower real control arms, made it ride better. You may want to add airlift 60824 helper bags, and 2008 f150 front sway bar links as well.
I also had to have the front tie rods trimmed to get it to align decent. And you may find you need to cut the bump stop cups out

 

[SteveCornell]

You'll need an adjustable panhard bar as well. I went with core 4x4s, its a beefy *******, I did relocation brackets that illicit used to make. Also added their upper and lower real control arms, made it ride better. You may want to add airlift 60824 helper bags, and 2008 f150 front sway bar links as well.
I also had to have the front tie rods trimmed to get it to align decent. And you may find you need to cut the bump stop cups out

Will I need the adjustable panhard bar if I use the panhard relocator that comes with the lowering kit??
I already have the F150 front links and new bump stops with plans to remove the factory cups.

Thanks!

 

[Wild one]

Gotcha!! Thanks, I'll add those to my list!

Don't buy the "no cut" brackets,even though they say they're good to 4".The majority of guys who buy the no cuts end up swapping them out for the "cut" versions.The no cuts cause clearance issues . If you decide to go for the adjustable track /panhard bar and for go the relocation bracket,you can re drill the holes it mounts to so that it runs parrellel with the ground after lowering. I redrilled both ends,but you can get away with redrilling just the frame mount,and slighty notching the bracket for clearance.If you look close at my frame mount,you can see where i redrilled the mounting hole up from the stock original hole.You want the bar as close to parrellal with the ground as you can get it.I'm also running the earlier Illicit relocation brackets

 

[Dragonsteel]

Don't buy the "no cut" brackets,even though they say they're good to 4".The majority of guys who buy the no cuts end up swapping them out for the "cut" versions.The no cuts cause clearance issues . If you decide to go for the adjustable track /panhard bar and for go the relocation bracket,you can re drill the holes it mounts to so that it runs parrellel with the ground after lowering. I redrilled both ends,but you can get away with redrilling just the frame mount,and slighty nothing the bracket for clearance.If you look close at my frame mount,you can see where i redrilled the mounting hole up from the stock original holeYou want the bar as close to parrellal with the ground as you can get it.I'm also running the earlier Illicit relocation brackets

View attachment 248659

Are you getting any binding issues on the panhard bar on the rearend mount? Looks really close to the bracket and as the rear end moves upward.

 

[Wild one]

Double post

 

[Wild one]

Are you getting any binding issues on the panhard bar on the rearend mount? Looks really close to the bracket and as the rear end moves upward.

It's hard to see,but the rearend bracket is also notched for clearance.****** pic,and this was when i was checking it for clearance,right after this i die grinded the notch,so it was alot cleaner,but at the time of the pic,i was still slicing it with a grinder and cut-off disc.

 

[jondevil]

Are you getting any binding issues on the panhard bar on the rearend mount? Looks really close to the bracket and as the rear end moves upward.

. somehow I tried quoting Wild one & it wound up here...... ( since deleted ) I'll tell ya , these noobs are a pain in the nutz sometimes..........

 

[jondevil]

Don't buy the "no cut" brackets,even though they say they're good to 4".The majority of guys who buy the no cuts end up swapping them out for the "cut" versions.The no cuts cause clearance issues . If you decide to go for the adjustable track /panhard bar and for go the relocation bracket,you can re drill the holes it mounts to so that it runs parrellel with the ground after lowering. I redrilled both ends,but you can get away with redrilling just the frame mount,and slighty notching the bracket for clearance.If you look close at my frame mount,you can see where i redrilled the mounting hole up from the stock original hole.You want the bar as close to parrellal with the ground as you can get it.I'm also running the earlier Illicit relocation brackets

View attachment 248659

WOW ! the underside of your truck is cleaner than my topside.....
What suspension & exhaust are you running ? the air bags are only needed if you do a lot of towing / carry a lot of weight frequently , correct ? otoh , for $100 it's cheap " just in case "
insurance , I guess

 

[Wild one]

WOW ! the underside of your truck is cleaner than my topside.....
What suspension & exhaust are you running ? the air bags are only needed if you do a lot of towing / carry a lot of weight frequently , correct ? otoh , for $100 it's cheap " just in case "
insurance , I guess

I drag race the truck on a weekly basis,and use the airbags to offset axle lift.Truck doesn't have a hitch on it,so it's never towed in it's life.I usually run about 6/7psi in the drivers side bag and roughly 10/11 psi in the pass side bag to compensate for the pass side of the axle trying to lift when it launches at the track.The exhaust started life as a Magnaflow catback,but is modded into a true dual set-up with a pair of Magnaflow mufflers.The box of the truck is where i run my relocated battery and stand alone fuel cell.The trucks a 14 with 80,000 clics on it,and is more toy then truck,lol

 

[1SloRam]

I think it’s good time to ask what are your goals for the truck?
I’ve had plenty of success with my no cut kit and belltech 2/4 drop. Not a single real world issue besides crappy roads. It never seen or will see a drag strip but it has dual citizenship in Mexico. So it works well on the street. @Wild one has a clean set up for sure and it works for him.

 

[Wild one]

I think it’s good time to ask what are your goals for the truck?
I’ve had plenty of success with my no cut kit and belltech 2/4 drop. Not a single real world issue besides crappy roads. It never seen or will see a drag strip but it has dual citizenship in Mexico. So it works well on the street. @Wild one has a clean set up for sure and it works for him.

 

[Wild one]

Trucks been basically done for the last 6 years. It runs corrected 11.40s which is plenty quick enough for me lol. It's still nice to drive and it's as far as I'll take it. To go faster is gonna take big money as it'd need a big cube 6.4 as I won't do boost on a hemi. I've yet to see a boosted 5.7 make a 100000 miles reliably.Up till late last fall it was the fastest gas powered 4th gen Ram in Canada,but it's record got beat last fall,lol

 

[SteveCornell]

I think it’s good time to ask what are your goals for the truck?
I’ve had plenty of success with my no cut kit and belltech 2/4 drop. Not a single real world issue besides crappy roads. It never seen or will see a drag strip but it has dual citizenship in Mexico. So it works well on the street. @Wild one has a clean set up for sure and it works for him.

The truck will be my daily driver (well I'm retired so it won't be driven that much) but I want it right and want it to handle, I'm not going to race it but plan to add some power someday (procharger or whipple hopefully)
I have a 2020 RAM 3500 Cummins 6.7 for the towing \ hauling duties or if more than 2 of us are going somewhere, this RCSB is going to be my toy and runaround truck.

 

[1SloRam]

I’d say the upgrades bars and arms would be overkill, but that’s just IMO. Like I said, my 2/4 RCSB has held up fine as have other trucks with drops here. I didn’t even upgrade shocks, everything felt like stock to me. Even if it didn’t I don’t much mine, it’s a truck, I have a Caddi if I wanna ride smooth LOL. If you wanna drag, then Wild is the guy to listen to.