2/4 drop question

[Stevearino]

Hey all,
For those that did a 2/4 drop, like a Belltech one. Did you have to cut the rear springs a coil to achieve a true 4 inch drop in the back? I have a 2018 rcsb and I see some say they had to, others didn't mention anything about it. I will be doing the 2/4 Belltech kit with the Inez relo brackets and will be running stock 20's for now until funds come up to do wheels/tires. I will be removing the spare tire and hitch which will lighten it up some out back and want to keep it as level as possible with the front. It's not being used for tow/hauling any more.
Edited to add it's 2WD
Thank you!

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

The springs out of the box are a 4 inch drop. If you cut a coil it will be a 5 inch drop and cut 2 coils a 6 inch drop.

If you only want a 4 inch drop. Don't cut the coils for the rear, just install them

Edited

Some have cut the right coil by a half a coil to compensate for the fuel tank on the left side which yields a more level look in the back.

PS be sure to clock your coils in the rear correctly. See the Inez installation instructions for details

 

[Cruze418]

I just installed an IHC kit on my '21 2 wheel drive Bighorn. If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't have done it. Have had the upper control arms off 3 times,cutting the tube inserts back to achieve neutral camber. The rear axle also moved over to the passenger side, now have to get an adjustable panhard bar. So much work, and time. Better part of a week trying to sort this out.
3-5 drop.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

A lowered truck is not for everyone.

 

[Cardsin2005]

I just installed an IHC kit on my '21 2 wheel drive Bighorn. If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't have done it. Have had the upper control arms off 3 times,cutting the tube inserts back to achieve neutral camber. The rear axle also moved over to the passenger side, now have to get an adjustable panhard bar. So much work, and time. Better part of a week trying to sort this out.
3-5 drop.

There is a lot of on/off and back and forth to get suspension stuff dialed in. I also had to get an adjustable panhard bar. Adjustable UCAs are also a lot of messing around. It's a lot more than just a spring swap or coil overs. But when my truck was all said and done with the 3/5 it looked so good I wanted more. To me it is worth it once you get it all sorted.

 

[mboymopar]

I do a lot of highway driving, have been pondering the 2/4 drop.

 

[Cardsin2005]

I do a lot of highway driving, have been pondering the 2/4 drop.

When I did the full IHC 3/5 to my 2014 4x4. The truck rode better then stock. I added the adjustable pan hard bar to re-center the rear end. Using the stock front springs makes it very smooth. Make sure you get a good alignment afterword.

 

[Geawiel]

I did the Belltech 2/4. A few suggestions:
Get an adjustable panhard bar. The BT relocation bracket blows.
Unless you've changed them recently, do your rear control arms while it's already apart. They're pretty cheap and you don't want to tear it apart again to change them out when the bushings go. Mine were hella bad (155k miles.)
Be ready to do the IHC control arm relocation thing. It can be done in a driveway with some patience (my son and I did it, and my body is super ****** up.) You'll want a small angle grinder.
Don't use their rear shocks. The QA1 single adjustable shocks fit perfectly. The ride is really rough with the BT shocks. With the QAs, you'll see a significant improvement in ride quality.

For me (aggressive setting)
up to 60: nice and smooth.
60 to 75: very responsive (in a good way) smooth and incredibly comfortable
75 to 90: A race car made of clouds held up by angels

I have them set at drag right now for everyday use. They're smooth (driven up to 80 so far) and very grippy. I chirp the tires just about everywhere, however I've done significant upgrades and a partial tune.

 

[Wild one]

I did the Belltech 2/4. A few suggestions:
Get an adjustable panhard bar. The BT relocation bracket blows.
Unless you've changed them recently, do your rear control arms while it's already apart. They're pretty cheap and you don't want to tear it apart again to change them out when the bushings go. Mine were hella bad (155k miles.)
Be ready to do the IHC control arm relocation thing. It can be done in a driveway with some patience (my son and I did it, and my body is super ****** up.) You'll want a small angle grinder.
Don't use their rear shocks. The QA1 single adjustable shocks fit perfectly. The ride is really rough with the BT shocks. With the QAs, you'll see a significant improvement in ride quality.

For me (aggressive setting)
up to 60: nice and smooth.
60 to 75: very responsive (in a good way) smooth and incredibly comfortable
75 to 90: A race car made of clouds held up by angels

I have them set at drag right now for everyday use. They're smooth (driven up to 80 so far) and very grippy. I chirp the tires just about everywhere, however I've done significant upgrades and a partial tune.

Ideally you want the trackbar running parrallel with the diff,if it runs on an angle,it'll pull the diff sideways when you hit a bump and the suspension compresses.I've probably already showed you how i redrilled the brackets mounting holes,but i forget,so here's the pic again

 

[Geawiel]

Ideally you want the trackbar running parrallel with the diff,if it runs on an angle,it'll pull the diff sideways when you hit a bump and the suspension compresses.I've probably already showed you how i redrilled the brackets mounting holes,but i forget,so here's the pic again

I don't have the same setup on that frame as you. There is a large part that hangs down and the frame side of the panhard is mounted to the bottom of it. Unless I cut it off, it prevents me from putting anything on that frame side. The way it is built also doesn't really allow for drilling of any other holes. The adjustable will eliminate the need for the axle bracket and still keep the bar parallel. I double checked with a local mechanic and the manufacturer of the adjustable. There is so much tension and such on that bracket that it even broke a weld that I had someone attempt. Although he is new to welding.

 

[Wild one]

I don't have the same setup on that frame as you. There is a large part that hangs down and the frame side of the panhard is mounted to the bottom of it. Unless I cut it off, it prevents me from putting anything on that frame side. The way it is built also doesn't really allow for drilling of any other holes. The adjustable will eliminate the need for the axle bracket and still keep the bar parallel. I double checked with a local mechanic and the manufacturer of the adjustable. There is so much tension and such on that bracket that it even broke a weld that I had someone attempt. Although he is new to welding.

Yes you do,there's no differance between your 10 and my 14,as far as how the panhard bar is bolted to the frame and diff. Look closer Unless you found an adjustable trackbar with an offset,it won't run parrallel with the diff
You might have to notch the frame bracket to allow you to move the bar up an inch or so,but it's nothing a few minutes with a grinder won't cure,you need an extended 9/16" drill bit to drill through both sides of the frame bracket,but they're easy to come by

 

[Geawiel]

Yes you do,there's no differance between your 10 and my 14,as far as how the panhard bar is bolted to the frame and diff. Look closer Unless you found an adjustable trackbar with an offset,it won't run parrallel with the diff
You might have to notch the frame bracket to allow you to move the bar up an inch or so,but it's nothing a few minutes with a grinder won't cure,you need an extended 9/16" drill bit to drill through both sides of the frame bracket,but they're easy to come by

I'm an idiot, it does look the same. You've cleaned yours up and it looks prettier. It looks like you have an adjustable bar though? Either way, I'm going to have a local shop do some major work here soon. My health isn't up to doing it. I'll have them fix the bar since they'll be replacing the diff with a LSD.

 

[Wild one]

I'm an idiot, it does look the same. You've cleaned yours up and it looks prettier. It looks like you have an adjustable bar though? Either way, I'm going to have a local shop do some major work here soon. My health isn't up to doing it. I'll have them fix the bar since they'll be replacing the diff with a LSD.

Take those pics with you,so they can see what you mean,if you want them to redrill the hole higher so the bar runs parrallel with the diff.Good chance they'll have to notch the frame bracket a bit,but it's nothing a decent shop can't handle
Yup i have a double adjustable trackbar,you just loosen the jam nuts,and spin the center nut to lengthen or shorten it.
My buddy used to make them,and it's industrial sized,as he used to build suspension components for the hi-po diesal guys I's made out of 0.250" wall DOM tubing and probably weighes about 30 lbs or more

 

[Geawiel]

Take those pics with you,so they can see what you mean,if you want them to redrill the hole higher so the bar runs parrallel with the diff.Good chance they'll have to notch the frame bracket a bit,but it's nothing a decent shop can't handle
Yup i have a double adjustable trackbar,you just loosen the jam nuts,and spin the center nut to lengthen or shorten it.
My buddy used to make them,and it's industrial sized,as he used to build suspension components for the hi-po diesal guys I's made out of 0.250" wall DOM tubing and probably weighes about 30 lbs or more

I bought AlphaOBD and the wired connection. I'm going to leave that with them and the laptop I bought just for Hemrietta when the do the work over the summer. I'll save the pics on there. I think we're going to opt for a high performance engine swap. It'll be less expensive, more HP and a bunch of other benefits over a top end rebuild.

 

[Geawiel]

I'm not sure what I did differently, but it's working now. oO