2010 2500 5.7 Life Expectancy

[Delta11]

2010 2500 5.7 with 240k so far. Doesn't burn oil. I change my own oil every 5k and add one whole quart of Marvel. Plugs, water pump, coil packs, rebuilt trans at 195k,ujoints and rear wheel bearings, greased front wheel bearings thru the abs sensor port, fuel pump went out at 210k. I put Berrymans B12 thru the gas once in a while. I use 5w30 instead of 5w20. Besides what I have mentioned does anyone have any suggestions for preventive maintenance? I clean the throttle body when I feel the rough idle. I have zero oil leaks and it dose not burn oil. The exhaust headers need fixing cause of the broken bolts...I will get to that soon enough. Appreciate any advice on making the truck last.

 

[HEMIMANN]

You've certainly gotten your money's worth from your truck. You've replace your other wear items? Trans oil and filters, gear oils, engine coolant? I generally don't replace u-joints and ball joints until they get sloppy.

 

[Richard Kim]

Delta,

Very encouraging! I have a 2016 2500 5.7 with 132K on the odo now. Doing the same thing as you on the oil change interval. I changed the PCV at 106K. Planning on changing the water pump, t-stat, hoses at 150K along with the transmission service. Other than manifold bolts, 0 issues with the truck.

Maintenance:
1. I do partial transmission fluid changes (vacuum out 2-3 quarts and replace with fresh fluid every 15K)
2. change rear diff fluid every 60K and front / t-case every 80K
3. flushed the radiator at 60K.
4. Front brakes done at 70K prematurely because I hated OEM brakes and rears done at 119K.
5. Plugs, belt, tensioner done at 106K
6. Kano Kreen the engine every 30K (google Kano; engine flush to keep the oil rings clean and cleans the varnish).
7. I add Lubegard Biotech with every oil change.

Got 40K out of the OEM Transforce HT's and another 40K out of the Hankook Dynapro AT's. Ran Nitto's for 38K before selling them for $500 and currently running Toyo OC AT3's (love the tires). I am hoping to get at least 200K and would be thrilled to get 300K out of the truck.

 

[Murphy Slaw]

I change my own oil every 5k and add one whole quart of Marvel.

You add 1 qt of Marvel Mystery Oil to your oil?

Isn't that stuff thin like water?

 

[06 Dodge]

I tried a 1 qt of MMO with 5 qts 5w30 in a new rebuilt engine, about 250 miles later I was on hwy at 55 MPH it just quite running, then when i check noticed oil & engine was hotter then heck, come to find out the rod & main bearing were scorched due to lack of proper lubrication, no way would I do such again nor tell someone to do so...

 

[Daw14]

Mystery oil . WOW flashback to 1978 . Maybe for penetrating oil , but never in a crankcase . Good luck with that stratagy . Low life expectancy .

 

[Delta11]

I tried a 1 qt of MMO with 5 qts 5w30 in a new rebuilt engine, about 250 miles later I was on hwy at 55 MPH it just quite running, then when i check noticed oil & engine was hotter then heck, come to find out the rod & main bearing were scorched due to lack of proper lubrication, no way would I do such again nor tell someone to do so...

The Hemi uses 7 quarts so maybe the ratio made a difference. REBUILT is probably the cause. I have done this since 95k and now I have 250k. My guess your rebuilt wasn't up to par.

 

[Delta11]

Mystery oil . WOW flashback to 1978 . Maybe for penetrating oil , but never in a crankcase . Good luck with that stratagy . Low life expectancy .

I started this at 95k and I am at 250k now....So now I can't stop. Have to see the experiment thru to the very end.

 

[06 Dodge]

The Hemi uses 7 quarts so maybe the ratio made a difference. REBUILT is probably the cause. I have done this since 95k and now I have 250k. My guess your rebuilt wasn't up to par.

I misstated that engine was a remanufactured engine built in 1992 for a 1987 PU and at the time it only took 6 qts of oil to fill, since then I was told that MMO is to lightweight of an oil to be used with 5w motor oil that an MMO was never made to be used in an engine for lubrication...

 

[Jeepwalker]

OP: What octane fuel do you use btw?

1. I do partial transmission fluid changes (vacuum out 2-3 quarts and replace with fresh fluid every 15K)

A partial change is good (done frequently enough). Another idea is to overfill a tranny by 2qts after the filter/fluid change, remove one of the tranny cooling lines at the radiator (or trans cooler), and port into a bucket. Have a partner start the engine and run till clear (use clear hose). The engine might need to be shut off after 8 seconds to add a couple more qts (one doesn't want to run 'dry'). Such a procedure will drain the old fluid out of the torque converter.

 

[1979PowerWagon360]

I thought marvel mystery oil was supposed to be run for short time, then drain sump and refill with oil only?

Edit: Nope, I was wrong. From their website: ADDED TO ENGINE OIL: Use Marvel Mystery Oil or Marvel Ultimate Oil in the crankcase to enhance oil lubrication and sludge control. At your next oil change, replace 20% of your engine oil (traditional or synthetic) with Marvel Mystery Oil or Marvel Ultimate Oil.

If your engine has a 5-quart oil capacity, replace one of the quarts with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil or Marvel Ultimate Oil. Repeat at every oil change for optimal performance.

 

[1979PowerWagon360]

You are obviously doing things right. Who can argue with your success?