2012 Ram 1500 5.7 No Power

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UpstateNY2012

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Hi all,

I just went outside to pick up my little guy from school and my truck wouldn't start. No power at all when I opened the door and inserted the key. Nothing. I figured I must have left something on when I and drained the battery. Grabbed a jumper pack and still nothing. Pulled the battery terminals cleaned them off and reconnected. When I got back in the truck I saw a solid red dot on the dashboard that went away for a minute or two. A quick GOOGLE search showed that this is the ant-theft system indicator. I've been searching the internet for a solution but I'm having no luck with anything. I was hoping someone here might be able to help. (Cross-posted from Electronics to get more visibility.)

Thanks!

Update:

I pulled the battery and found some moisture underneath where that bolt is. It looks rusted so this can be the first time it's gotten wet. Also a space next to the battery had a small amount of water. We did get rain all day yesterday. I've attached the pics for reference.

Edit:
2012 ram 1500 5.7 4x4
 

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Jeepwalker

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Sounds like the battery. I had something very similar to that happen some yrs ago. It turned out to be a failed battery. The funny thing is I had been driving it all morning and then it just failed. It voltage-tested fine (well, a little low), but spectacularly failed a load test. I wasn't able to jump start the vehicle either.

My suggestion would be to try to jump start it. If it runs then test the alternator output across the battery terminals (13.8-14.25Volts). There's a possibility the alternator isn't charging.

If you have some time to spare and you have a battery charger, put the charger on the batt (10A) for 5 hours, and then 'auto charge' overnight. Then take the battery to get load tested at Autozone/OReilly....or NAPA.

If you don't have time to spare and you never saw the alternator light come on (or gauge go down) ...then just take the battery to get tested or buy a load tester HERE.
 

Jeepwalker

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The other possibilities if the battery checks out 'good' are:

1) WIN Module need cleaning. Just type in 'Chrysler WIN Module' into Youtube and you'll see.

2) Starter (but I doubt it..at this point)
 

Jeepwalker

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Be sure to mix up a baking soda and water mix and brush it around the battery tray ...and give it a good cleaning before putting a battery in.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Sounds like the battery. I had something very similar to that happen some yrs ago. It turned out to be a failed battery. The funny thing is I had been driving it all morning and then it just failed. It voltage-tested fine (well, a little low), but spectacularly failed a load test. I wasn't able to jump start the vehicle either.

My suggestion would be to try to jump start it. If it runs then test the alternator output across the battery terminals (13.8-14.25Volts). There's a possibility the alternator isn't charging.

If you have some time to spare and you have a battery charger, put the charger on the batt (10A) for 5 hours, and then 'auto charge' overnight. Then take the battery to get load tested at Autozone/OReilly....or NAPA.

If you don't have time to spare and you never saw the alternator light come on (or gauge go down) ...then just take the battery to get tested or buy a load tester HERE.
I swapped the battery out of my wife's truck and there was no change. I threw my battery on the charger overnight just to give it a shot in the morning.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Be sure to mix up a baking soda and water mix and brush it around the battery tray ...and give it a good cleaning before putting a battery.
The other possibilities if the battery checks out 'good' are:

1) WIN Module need cleaning. Just type in 'Chrysler WIN Module' into Youtube and you'll see.

2) Starter (but I doubt it..at this point)
I'll clean up the tray tomorrow like you suggested before I put my battery back in.

I just GOOGLED the WIN Module and will dive into the videos. Thank you. Would a bad WIN Module cause the symptoms I'm experiencing? Even the dome light won't come on when I open the door. It's like its completely dead but I've tested my battery and swapped in the battery from my wife's truck and the same result. The only thing I get is a red dot on the dash that goes away after a minute or two.

I appreciate your help. Thank you!
 

Jeepwalker

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IDK about the dome lights.... That almost sounds like main-power type thing. The WIN module is more for starting the vehicle. So, maybe watch the WIN videos, but don't dig into it untill you're sure the main power is good.

What you might want to do is

1) Check the main cable where it attaches to the fusebox. Make sure it's not corroded or loose. And there is a metal strap from where the cable bolts to.....that little metal strap (metal band) acts like a 'fuse'. Make sure that's good.

2) Verify the cable ends are good ...for sure. Not corroded.

3) Check the fuses/Relays. Some owners have reported that the fuses work themselves "up" over time. Push them down...make sure they're seated. Maybe even verify they are all good with a multimeter. See if you have power at the dome light fuse (with 'good' battery installed). There's always a remote possibility the door switch just failed at the same time...you never know. But there'd be power at the fuse anyway. There is the RUN Accessory Relay and another main Run Relay next to it...you might try swapping them for 'like' relays. And/or Ohm them out/replace.

4) Verify your grounds are solid-good. Find and loosen and re-tighten the engine ground. And the body ground.

5) There is a little plastic door above the driver's side plastic inner wheel liner (look "up" above the tire) ...there are some major grounds in that area. As I recall. Mine actually were darn rusty! Make sure those are good and clean on your vehicle.

6) There is another set of major grounds back by the gas tank filler tube, on the driver's side ...inside behind where you put gas in. Check those and clean if they're rusty.

7) If after doing all that. Check the battery connection on the starter is not loose.

8) After all that, if nothing, you might wiggle the big bundle of wires underneath your fusebox area. They go to the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) ...which is the main computer..."Brains". You might even have someone inside the truck cab while you are wiggling to see if the light's DO come on. The wires beneath the TIPM can corrode in rust-belt environments..to the point where some people have had to replace the entire connector. It's not real common, but a 2012...in NY... you never know. Do a Y/T search for corroded TIPM or Ram Computer connector...something like that. Or a corroded pin/s at the computer. If you get to the point of looking at those wires and corrosion inside the connector, observe very carefully EACH wire going to the connectors for possible swelling, indicating corrosion or shorts. Remember that in 2013 Chrysler made significant changes to the wiring and electronics, so just beware in your searches that 2012 and below is a bit different.

Don't jump to conclusions on the computer. They are rarely the problem...but sometimes they are. There was a real issue in the early ones with fuel pump relays...but that doesn't seem to be your truck's issue. Start with the easy things first (cause they're usually the culprit), check the battery, cables, fuses/relays/Grounds, and all the other things on the list above. There are helpful videos on about every electrical aspect on these Rams.

.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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IDK about the dome lights.... That almost sounds like main-power type thing. The WIN module is more for starting the vehicle. So, maybe watch the WIN videos, but don't dig into it untill you're sure the main power is good.

What you might want to do is

1) Check the main cable where it attaches to the fusebox. Make sure it's not corroded or loose. And there is a metal strap from where the cable bolts to.....that little metal strap (metal band) acts like a 'fuse'. Make sure that's good.

2) Verify the cable ends are good ...for sure. Not corroded.

3) Check the fuses/Relays. Some owners have reported that the fuses work themselves "up" over time. Push them down...make sure they're seated. Maybe even verify they are all good with a multimeter. See if you have power at the dome light fuse (with 'good' battery installed). There's always a remote possibility the door switch just failed at the same time...you never know. But there'd be power at the fuse anyway. There is the RUN Accessory Relay and another main Run Relay next to it...you might try swapping them for 'like' relays. And/or Ohm them out/replace.

4) Verify your grounds are solid-good. Find and loosen and re-tighten the engine ground. And the body ground.

5) There is a little plastic door above the driver's side plastic inner wheel liner (look "up" above the tire) ...there are some major grounds in that area. As I recall. Mine actually were darn rusty! Make sure those are good and clean on your vehicle.

6) There is another set of major grounds back by the gas tank filler tube, on the driver's side ...inside behind where you put gas in. Check those and clean if they're rusty.

7) If after doing all that. Check the battery connection on the starter is not loose.

8) After all that, if nothing, you might wiggle the big bundle of wires underneath your fusebox area. They go to the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) ...which is the main computer..."Brains". You might even have someone inside the truck cab while you are wiggling to see if the light's DO come on. The wires beneath the TIPM can corrode in rust-belt environments..to the point where some people have had to replace the entire connector. It's not real common, but a 2012...in NY... you never know. Do a Y/T search for corroded TIPM or Ram Computer connector...something like that. Or a corroded pin/s at the computer. If you get to the point of looking at those wires and corrosion inside the connector, observe very carefully EACH wire going to the connectors for possible swelling, indicating corrosion or shorts. Remember that in 2013 Chrysler made significant changes to the wiring and electronics, so just beware in your searches that 2012 and below is a bit different.

Don't jump to conclusions on the computer. They are rarely the problem...but sometimes they are. There was a real issue in the early ones with fuel pump relays...but that doesn't seem to be your truck's issue. Start with the easy things first (cause they're usually the culprit), check the battery, cables, fuses/relays/Grounds, and all the other things on the list above. There are helpful videos on about every electrical aspect on these Rams.

.
Went through the fuse box and tested all the fuses - made sure they are seated. They are all good as far as I can tell. The vehicle grounds check ok.

1. I can manually turn on the dome light and the two other lights near the rearview mirror. The bed light will also come on if I press the button.
2. The power mirrors function.
3. When I open the door to the car nothing comes on on its own - it seems like the battery is dead but it's not. The truck battery is working fine - tested it in my wife's truck. I also swapped her battery into mine for additional testing.
3. If I press the bed light button the red anti-theft light comes on for about 30 seconds or so and then shuts off
4. The WIN is getting power. I checked that as well.
5. If seems like something is preventing the truck from turning on. Like it's locked out.

Thanks for all the help so far. I'm going to go back through and double-check everything you mentioned. Nothing is every easy!
 

Jeepwalker

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....Nothing is every easy!

Very true...when it comes to electrical stuff.

Try having someone in the cab of the truck...maybe even trying to start it...while you wiggle the big relays ...or tap on them with a screwdriver handle, and also wiggle the big bundle of wires beneath the fuse box.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Very true...when it comes to electrical stuff.

Try having someone in the cab of the truck...maybe even trying to start it...while you wiggle the big relays ...or tap on them with a screwdriver handle, and also wiggle the big bundle of wires beneath the fuse box.
No luck Jeepwalker. During my YouTube search, I did find this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljtNEmkFHjc&ab_channel=AutomotiveTestSolutions. This situation is very close to what I'm dealing with other than my dash lights won't come on. I think I'm going to have to throw in the towel at this point and have it towed to the dealer.

Thanks again for all your suggestions. I do appreciate it.
 

Daw14

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I would locate and clean whatever grounds you can .not sure if there’s fuses at the terminals, but ?
 
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UpstateNY2012

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I would locate and clean whatever grounds you can .not sure if there’s fuses at the terminals, but ?
Very true...when it comes to electrical stuff.

Try having someone in the cab of the truck...maybe even trying to start it...while you wiggle the big relays ...or tap on them with a screwdriver handle, and also wiggle the big bundle of wires beneath the fuse box.
I just wanted to update this post. I had the vehicle towed to the dealership and after a week plus of waiting I was told the WIN module was bad and needed to be replaced. I gave the ok and they replaced the unit but they were still unable to get the vehicle going. I'm now being told the issue is the TIPM/PDC. The price they quoted to repair was close to 3k. I think I may order the TIPM and replace myself. I've done some Google searches to see the process and it doesn't look to bad. I'd appreciate any advice on the process if anyone is willing to offer. Thanks again for all your help/
 

RamDiver

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I was told the WIN module was bad and needed to be replaced. I gave the ok and they replaced the unit but they were still unable to get the vehicle going.

Thanks for the update.

More than a few members here likely have experience repairing and/or replacing a defective TIPM.

I'd have to wonder if the WIN module replacement by the dealer was a parts canon solution.
Are they trying to say that both the WIN module and TIPM failed simultaneously? :cool:

.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Thanks for the update.

More than a few members here likely have experience repairing and/or replacing a defective TIPM.

I'd have to wonder if the WIN module replacement by the dealer was a parts canon solution.
Are they trying to say that both the WIN module and TIPM failed simultaneously? :cool:

.
That's what they are telling me. I was thinking the same thing you are. Initially, I got the call that it was the WIN and that the truck would be ready that afternoon. Then radio silence until the next day when they couldn't get it to start and began tracking down the issue further. They assure me that the wiring is sound and the connections to the TIPM are good. I can't help thinking that this might have been the issue all along but I don't have the expertise to know that for a fact. So I've ordered a TIPM and expect it to arrive tomorrow or Saturday. I'll swing down to the dealer and pay the bill for the WIN module and have AAA bring the car back to my driveway, install the TIPM, and pray it works!
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Thanks for the update.

More than a few members here likely have experience repairing and/or replacing a defective TIPM.

I'd have to wonder if the WIN module replacement by the dealer was a parts canon solution.
Are they trying to say that both the WIN module and TIPM failed simultaneously? :cool:

.
Update. I overnighted a TIPM from https://circuitboardmedics.com/ yesterday at about 2 pm. The package arrived around 10 am. I didn't have time until tonight to put the part in. I spent 3 hours getting my boat up and running. Had a blown fuse in the outboard....Having some great luck lately lol. Anyway got the boat running and headed home to see what I could do with the truck. Installed the TIPM per instructions and the truck started right up. My dashboard looks like a Christmas tree right now but the truck is running. So I'm not done yet but getting closer. Just wanted to keep the post updated incase someone else runs into the same situation. I'll follow up once I get this thing sorted out.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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I hope you have an OBDII reader, if not, this might be a good time to buy an inexpensive unit.

Great work on the TIPM installation. :cool:

.
I have one of these: OBDLink. When I went to bed last night I zip-tied the positive and negative terminals together. I went out first thing this morning and reconnected the terminals. Everything now looks to be all set. The dash looks good - no lights on.

I still have one problem. The key FOB is now stuck in the WIN module. It was stuck in there when I picked up the truck from the dealer. I'm not sure what happened while they were doing their thing but I can't get it out now. That's the last thing I have left to deal with. I do have a new WIN module to replace the old one, got it just in case it was both the TIPM and WIN. I prefer to not have to use it but I haven't found a solution for getting the fob released.

I'll continue to update in the hopes it will assist someone else down the line.

Enjoy the weekend!
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Ok I'm at a loss here and could really use some guidance. I've spent the last day trying to figure out what the problem is. The truck operates fine now but I can't get the FOB to release. The vehicle is in park and I've scoured the internet and this board for solutions. I have tried the following:

1. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Once reconnected the fob will release. If I start the truck and turn it off it will release 1-2 times. Then will get locked again.
2. Hooked up my laptop and scanned using AlphaOBD. I connected to the radio frequency hub (RFH) and looked for codes. Everything seems in order. I run diagnostics and choose Key Removal Inhibit Lock-Unlock Control and I can tell it unlock. The Fob is released. Same as above. I can start the vehicle a couple of times and the FOB will come out. After 2-3 times it will lock again.
3. Battery voltage showing 12.6-12.8
4. I installed and programmed a new WIN module that I purchased in case the issue was both the WIN and TIPM. Same issue as I stated above. Can get a couple of cycles and then FOB locked again.

Not sure where else to look at this point or what the problem might be. At least I can drive the truck if I need too....
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Could it be a faulty fob?
I tried both FOBS and got the same result. I also reinstalled the old WIN module and got the same results. I can start the vehicle and drive it but when I attempt to turn it off the FOB is locked. For ***** and giggles, I plugged my scanner back in and ran through the systems. I did get a p0513 - Invalid SKIM Key code when checking the engine. I'll dig into that and see if I can find something.
 
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