2012 Ram 1500 5.7 No Power

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jws123

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I tried both FOBS and got the same result. I also reinstalled the old WIN module and got the same results. I can start the vehicle and drive it but when I attempt to turn it off the FOB is locked. For ***** and giggles, I plugged my scanner back in and ran through the systems. I did get a p0513 - Invalid SKIM Key code when checking the engine. I'll dig into that and see if I can find something.

you probably have a issue related to this key cant come out unless it thinks its fully in park.
 
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UpstateNY2012

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you probably have a issue related to this key cant come out unless it thinks its fully in park.
jws123 thanks for the reply. I tried that a few times yesterday and this morning. No joy. Could the new TIPM be causing the problem? I'm considering pulling it out and starting that whole process again.
 

Jeepwalker

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Have you tried disconnecting your tk's cables (and tying together), a second time? But as soon as you get home...till next day.

Also, I *think* I remember reading something like the key-retention thing a long time ago, and there was (going off memory here) for a guy or two, insufficient ground to the WIN module. Again, just going off memory. Or they added a 2nd ground wire. If you can find out what ground goes to the WIN module, splice a wire in there and hook to the body, or maybe even the body ground, to test. Do a Y/T search about WIN grounds.

Also... does your truck have security...security module? I wonder how the grounds are to that? I know you said the grounds were good, but did you verify the grounds above the driver's wheel? And back by the tank filler tube?

Also...On one of my vehicles (Hummer H3), I used to have a persnikety problem with the window module. It affected (stopped) the window operation...but also the security too. If I unplugged and brought the module into the house overnight it would reset. But here's the interesting part. Eventually ...for another reason (airbag module...unrelated issue) had to remove the seats and carpeting to get at the SRS module. What I noticed was about 10 ground wires peppered around the floor inside the vehicle. That tells you how important ground are...if they need THAT many. Ok... The ground closest to the door (closest to the window module), that ground connector was badly rusted (from a once-leaky sunroof), and the copper wire corroded. Ever since I fixed that ground connector, I have not had one single issue with the module...and it's been 3 years.

Just tossing it out there that maybe there's a weak ground to the win module somewhere....and maybe even inside the module itself. Or maybe even one that affects your truck's window module...possibly. Water leaks are also commong in Rams (3rd brake light).

If bolstering the ground wire to the WIN doesn't do anything. I would take apart your old WIN module (they are a source of problems anyway) and search carefully for Cold Solder Joints and ensure the contacts are good. Both issues plague the WIN modules. And possibly remove the door sill trim and lift up your tk's carpet at the driver's feet and inspect under there for any ground wires. Water/moisture will last the longest at the lowest part of the floor. And possibly pull the door jamb wire boot back (with your hands) and look for cracked/broken wires. They get stiff and brittle in the winter (my VW had 22 of 25 door wires cracked...and about 4 were broken and frayed...touching other cracked wires). And door switches good for sure?? Seat occupancy switches register 'good' in AlfaOBD?

So...to re-cap, I believe it would be worth a try to:
1) Reset:
Try 'completely' discharging the other modules in the truck by re-tying cable ends (again) for a longer period. Cost's nothing...easy while you sleep.
2) Grounds: Re-inspect the main grounds, even interior floor grounds...or grounds to the WIN module and/or other modules that affect security. And ground in the back floor where 3rd brake leaks wet the floor. Pretty easy inspection.
3) Inspect WIN Module: Remove disassemble the old WIN module and look CLOSELY for cold and/or cracked solder joints (search out WIN Module..there's about 80 videos on it). Re-touch the main solder joints with a soldering iron. Make sure batt is disconnected when you reconnect. Lots of Youtube help on this.
4) Door Wiring: Inspect driver's (and pass) door jamb wiring. Quick and easy to do.
5) Door open/close switches are good, right?
 
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Jeepwalker

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Oh... also. What did the TIPM cable connectors and wiring look like when you swapped out the TIPM? Was there any hint of corrosion at any of the connectors. There've been some Ram owners in the NE who've had corroded connector pins which even migrated back to the wire inside the wire jacket. Hard one to see w/o a very carefull inspection. Some guys have even had to replace many connector pins/wires. IDK how you'd be able to search it out, but corrosion is unkind to things like that. And it's entirely possible there was nothing wrong with your old TIPM...but the removal/installation process reseated...or re-allowed a couple bad connections to re-seat. I'm just speculating.

But that's why at the top of every mfgrs troubleshooting tree for 30yrs there is a bold statement to ensure grounds and wiring and connectors have been checked BEFORE starting troubleshooting checks. Because they lead the list of very common core issues. It illustrates how easy it is to overlook fundamental things...or, how finding them right away can save troubleshooting time.

You're doing a great job running down these issues. I'm just trying to toss things out...not sure if any will do any good. :waytogo:
 
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UpstateNY2012

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Hi all. I just wanted to update the thread and report that I tracked down the problem! I ended up reaching out to tech support for the new TIPM. They offered to send a new one to see if that might be the problem - although they were confident it wasn't. They were right. I installed the second new TIPM, and the situation remained - still unable to remove the key fob. At this point, I was ready to give up but decided to give one last thing a shot. I replaced the gearshift bracket and solenoid. Problem solved. It appears the solenoid went bad and the vehicle didn't know it was in park. So to recap: No crank/no start was the initial problem. I replaced the TIPM which got the truck running. Then I replaced the WIN (this may or may not have been bad). I'm not willing to put the old one back in to see if it work lol. The new solenoid solved the fob removal issue.

Thanks to everyone who replied and helped me out. I wanted to make sure I updated the thread with the full fix in case some other poor soul finds themselves in the same position. Also, shout out to Circuitboard Medics. They were awesome to deal with and can't recommend them enough.

Take care.
 

62Blazer

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That's what they are telling me. I was thinking the same thing you are. Initially, I got the call that it was the WIN and that the truck would be ready that afternoon. Then radio silence until the next day when they couldn't get it to start and began tracking down the issue further. They assure me that the wiring is sound and the connections to the TIPM are good. I can't help thinking that this might have been the issue all along but I don't have the expertise to know that for a fact. So I've ordered a TIPM and expect it to arrive tomorrow or Saturday. I'll swing down to the dealer and pay the bill for the WIN module and have AAA bring the car back to my driveway, install the TIPM, and pray it works!
I would not pay for the WIN install. If you take the truck in for a no-start condition, they change a part, and it still won't start, they haven't fixed anything. And they definitely can't prove that part was bad. If they wanted to get snotty I would tell them to put the old part back in. Been through this before on a vehicle.
 
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