2013 Ram 3 way bypass valve

[Jlowing]

I have read on the forums for many days about the pcm needing a reflash which I have scheduled for Monday. I have replaced this valve 4 times each time under normal driving conditions I have no issues. Once you hard accelerate merging on a highway or passing someone the middle of the valve pops open and coolant gushes out leaving me stranded. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue, if so what was the ultimate cause for this happening. The factory original cracked so I replaced it both aftermarket and factory and this issue continues to happen. 2013 ram 1500 big horn 5.7 engine 4wd

 

[Wild one]

I have read on the forums for many days about the pcm needing a reflash which I have scheduled for Monday. I have replaced this valve 4 times each time under normal driving conditions I have no issues. Once you hard accelerate merging on a highway or passing someone the middle of the valve pops open and coolant gushes out leaving me stranded. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue, if so what was the ultimate cause for this happening. The factory original cracked so I replaced it both aftermarket and factory and this issue continues to happen. 2013 ram 1500 big horn 5.7 engine 4wd

That's a new one on me.But it sounds like something is pressuring up the coolant system under hard acceleration,which would make me wonder if you have a leaking head gasket or a cracked cylinder head.When the trucks cold,pop the rad cap and start the truck,if there's a bunch of bubbles in the coolant,you might want to check the coolant for exhaust gas,you can buy kits to check the exhaust gas content of your coolant.Have you also tried pressure testing the cooling system.

 

[Jlowing]

That's a new one on me.But it sounds like something is pressuring up the coolant system under hard acceleration,which would make me wonder if you have a leaking head gasket or a cracked cylinder head.When the trucks cold,pop the rad cap and start the truck,if there's a bunch of bubbles in the coolant,you might want to check the coolant for exhaust gas,you can buy kits to check the exhaust gas content of your coolant.Have you also tried pressure testing the cooling system.

I have checked for this and have found no issues of ay sort involving this. I believe it could be a pressure issue or even a clog yet my heat issue only came about yesterday not the last month I have battled this valve. I havent found anything else that seems out of place.

 

[sped68]

I’m pretty interested in getting some feedback as well. I started getting a CEL indicating an issue with my 3 way valve so purchased a replacement valve from Amazon and swapped it out. It was all good for a couple weeks until I hammered on it to merge and like you I blew the bottom out of the new valve and lost all my coolant. I ended up limping it home and reinstalled my old valve. I put a little dielectric grease on my connector just in case that was to blame for the code being thrown and so far so good. I’m not necessarily thinking it won’t throw a code again but who knows.
It’s a little concerning though that you tried a genuine Mopar replacement and it popped too. I just assumed it was brittle plastic in the cheap replacement I bought.

 

[Jlowing]

I’m pretty interested in getting some feedback as well. I started getting a CEL indicating an issue with my 3 way valve so purchased a replacement valve from Amazon and swapped it out. It was all good for a couple weeks until I hammered on it to merge and like you I blew the bottom out of the new valve and lost all my coolant. I ended up limping it home and reinstalled my old valve. I put a little dielectric grease on my connector just in case that was to blame for the code being thrown and so far so good. I’m not necessarily thinking it won’t throw a code again but who knows.
It’s a little concerning though that you tried a genuine Mopar replacement and it popped too. I just assumed it was brittle plastic in the cheap replacement I bought.
View attachment 232351

When mine blows out it isnt that plastic that is breaking. It is the part where it is screwed together. One of them it popped the threads in the plastic, the other have spread enough to push the seal out and just start gushing coolant. I am at a total loss as to whats going on. I may just try a metal valve that I can close off heat to the cabin during summer as it seems all this does is open when the heat is turned on ti push coolant to the heater core.

 

[Wild one]

When mine blows out it isnt that plastic that is breaking. It is the part where it is screwed together. One of them it popped the threads in the plastic, the other have spread enough to push the seal out and just start gushing coolant. I am at a total loss as to whats going on. I may just try a metal valve that I can close off heat to the cabin during summer as it seems all this does is open when the heat is turned on ti push coolant to the heater core.

If it's an 8 speed truck,i think it also sends coolant to the heater assembly on the 8 speed transmission.If you can live with the dash light,you could probably bypass it completely,not sure if you could tune it out using HP or AlphaOBD.but might be something to look into.The cars use the same 8 speed transmission,but don't have the tranny heater assembly,so theoritically you could probably delete the coolant flow to it with no downsides,other then the transmission will take longer to warm up,but if the cars don't preheat the fluid,the trucks shouldn't require it either

 

[crackerjack1957]

Maybe faulty radiator cap.....may not be the issue but cheap enough to rule out

 

[indept]

Where is that critter located on our trucks?

 

[Wild one]

Where is that critter located on our trucks?

I don't think your truck has it indept,they got rid of that style valve around 15 or 16,only the early 8 speed trucks have it.If you do have it,it'll be located on the pass side frame rail just under the airbox.It's pretty easy to spot,as it's a decent sized eye sore,lol