360Don
Junior Member
This is a follow up of a job that I had planned earlier and now, finally got to it.
Was tired of the oil spots on the driveway.
Here is my rendition of replacing the rear pinion seal....................
2014 DODGE RAM REAR PINION SEAL REPLACEMENT
After getting an estimate from a local repair garage of $1000 to $1200 for the installation, and laughing while leaving the shop, I've decided to tackle the installation myself.
I don't have deep pockets as some do.
First off, I found three videos of gents replacing the pinion shaft and I studied each one approximately three (3) times to see what I was up against.
This video I used as a reference is almost spot on >>>> https://youtu.be/NBpxR8afzrE
I put off the install earlier because the weather was not in my favor.
The weather now is great, tools all lined up and a grandson helper is able and willing.
WARNING: CHOCK UP THE FRONT WHEELSOF THE VEHICLE, ONCE THE DRIVE SHAFT IS DISCONNECTED, THE VEHICLE ISFREE TO MOVE.
I'm going to try to be specific on the tools I used so another shade tree mechanic attempting to do the replacement will have the right tools on hand to complete the job with no surprises.
First step is to drain the differential in a drain pan.
The differential holds approx. 2-1/4quarts.
You will add the fluid back when job is complete.
The driveshaft bolts are 15mm, they were factory installed with blue Lock-tight and a bear to remove.
Trying to get a ratchet wrench on the tight angle to remove these bolts was a little bit if a trick.
I tried using a swivel joint extension on a cordless impact wrench with no luck, had to use a breaker bar with the socket.
I can't stress enough to mark (with a paint pen) the position of the shaft to the yoke before disassembly, this keeps the assembly in balance.
Using a hammer, break the driveshaft free and laid it down.
Now, “YOU MUST mark the pinion nut, shaft and yoke to match up on reassembly”.
Note how many threads are exposed between the nut and pinion shaft is helpful on reinstall.
In watching the various videos, they stated the wrong socket size for the pinion nut.
The correct size that we use was a 12point, ½” drive, 1-1/4” socket.
After the mating marks are applied, remove the pinion nut and yoke. It takes some persuasion with a hammer, wrapping the yoke from side to side, no puller needed in our case, lay the yoke aside.
Now you are eye balling the seal to be replaced, as the video pointed out, a drywall screw, screwed into the seal can be jacked out with a claw hammer, easy peasy. Throw away the chisel.
Cleanup the seal seating surface, apply silicone sealant around the new seal surface.
Not only does it give an extra measure of sealing but adds a lube for insertion.
Position the seal and start by tapping the outer edges of the seal with a hammer and follow up the seating with a small piece of wood, hitting all around with the wood, don't be gentle hitting the wood.
Check that the seal is seated all-around, your installation is complete.
Reassembly in reverse order, paying CLOSE attention to your mating marks.
Reinstall the drain plug, add gear oil back into the differential.......job done!
My grandson was the helper, and he made the job much easier, he was the muscle.
I hope that my explanation helps someone who is thinking of doing the job, using the right tools.
This is what the Ram forum is all about, making the job at hand easier.
Thx 4 reading, 360
Was tired of the oil spots on the driveway.
Here is my rendition of replacing the rear pinion seal....................
2014 DODGE RAM REAR PINION SEAL REPLACEMENT
After getting an estimate from a local repair garage of $1000 to $1200 for the installation, and laughing while leaving the shop, I've decided to tackle the installation myself.
I don't have deep pockets as some do.
First off, I found three videos of gents replacing the pinion shaft and I studied each one approximately three (3) times to see what I was up against.
This video I used as a reference is almost spot on >>>> https://youtu.be/NBpxR8afzrE
I put off the install earlier because the weather was not in my favor.
The weather now is great, tools all lined up and a grandson helper is able and willing.
WARNING: CHOCK UP THE FRONT WHEELSOF THE VEHICLE, ONCE THE DRIVE SHAFT IS DISCONNECTED, THE VEHICLE ISFREE TO MOVE.
I'm going to try to be specific on the tools I used so another shade tree mechanic attempting to do the replacement will have the right tools on hand to complete the job with no surprises.
First step is to drain the differential in a drain pan.
The differential holds approx. 2-1/4quarts.
You will add the fluid back when job is complete.
The driveshaft bolts are 15mm, they were factory installed with blue Lock-tight and a bear to remove.
Trying to get a ratchet wrench on the tight angle to remove these bolts was a little bit if a trick.
I tried using a swivel joint extension on a cordless impact wrench with no luck, had to use a breaker bar with the socket.
I can't stress enough to mark (with a paint pen) the position of the shaft to the yoke before disassembly, this keeps the assembly in balance.
Using a hammer, break the driveshaft free and laid it down.
Now, “YOU MUST mark the pinion nut, shaft and yoke to match up on reassembly”.
Note how many threads are exposed between the nut and pinion shaft is helpful on reinstall.
In watching the various videos, they stated the wrong socket size for the pinion nut.
The correct size that we use was a 12point, ½” drive, 1-1/4” socket.
After the mating marks are applied, remove the pinion nut and yoke. It takes some persuasion with a hammer, wrapping the yoke from side to side, no puller needed in our case, lay the yoke aside.
Now you are eye balling the seal to be replaced, as the video pointed out, a drywall screw, screwed into the seal can be jacked out with a claw hammer, easy peasy. Throw away the chisel.
Cleanup the seal seating surface, apply silicone sealant around the new seal surface.
Not only does it give an extra measure of sealing but adds a lube for insertion.
Position the seal and start by tapping the outer edges of the seal with a hammer and follow up the seating with a small piece of wood, hitting all around with the wood, don't be gentle hitting the wood.
Check that the seal is seated all-around, your installation is complete.
Reassembly in reverse order, paying CLOSE attention to your mating marks.
Reinstall the drain plug, add gear oil back into the differential.......job done!
My grandson was the helper, and he made the job much easier, he was the muscle.
I hope that my explanation helps someone who is thinking of doing the job, using the right tools.
This is what the Ram forum is all about, making the job at hand easier.
Thx 4 reading, 360
