2017 Ram 1500. Front Right CV Shaft Leaking

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jcash414

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I have a rather slow leak on my front right CV shaft. From what ive read, it is a common problem. I posted some pics on a different forum and was instructed i probably needed the CV axle, Stub shaft and the seal - as it had "powdery rust" and my Cv shaft had a decent amount of play. I bought the truck with like 45k miles a couple years ago, it now has 80k miles and this shaft has always had play.

My questions are:

1. can i just keep adding diff fluid until it gets real bad?
2. i found a kit on advanced auto and its 799 for the stub shaft, bearing, seal PLUS another 200 for the cv shaft. Is there anything cheaper?
3. I may just replace the seal and see how long it lasts till its bad again. i only plan on owning this truck another year or 2. Would rather replace the seal once or twice than dropping 1k+ on a new setup.. is this stupid?

Thank you


Edit: There is no weird vibration etc from the cv shaft. I think i can buy an entire kit for all this for like 120 on ebay ( Yikes?) or i can buy just the worn out shaft on rock auto for 40 bucks. I cant seem to find the seal anywhere besides the ebay kit or the 800 dollar dorman kit
 
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Jeepwalker

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Probably what you should do is lift one of the front tires off the ground with a jack...at least for a moment (to releive wind-up) and crawl under and lift up/down on the inner CV with your hand ...see how much play there really is. If you haven't done so already. It might be there isn't much and you just a transfer case seal. There are videos on how to change it? Or like you say, it might need bearings and a shaft. Or were you going to have a shop do the repairs? This might be one of those things where the chrysler mechanic who's done it 15 times before, could do the 'fix' on the hoist in a fraction of time it would take someone who hasn't done it. As far as the CV axle, is the boot still ok?

I personally probably wouldn't order any parts until I got it apart and looked at everything. The CV could be fine, or the bearing surface could be worn by old bearings. Just no way to really tell. I know that slows down the repair, but then you can order exactly what you need and nothing more. Sending stuff back takes time too.

It seems like it's not uncommon to leak on that side.
 
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jcash414

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Probably what you should do is lift one of the front tires off the ground with a jack...at least for a moment (to releive wind-up) and crawl under and lift up/down on the inner CV with your hand ...see how much play there really is. If you haven't done so already. It might be there isn't much and you just a transfer case seal. There are videos on how to change it? Or like you say, it might need bearings and a shaft. Or were you going to have a shop do the repairs? This might be one of those things where the chrysler mechanic who's done it 15 times before, could do the 'fix' on the hoist in a fraction of time it would take someone who hasn't done it. As far as the CV axle, is the boot still ok?

I personally probably wouldn't order any parts until I got it apart and looked at everything. The CV could be fine, or the bearing surface could be worn by old bearings. Just no way to really tell. I know that slows down the repair, but then you can order exactly what you need and nothing more. Sending stuff back takes time too.

It seems like it's not uncommon to leak on that side.

There is play. I have felt it, but there has always been play in it. im not worried about changing it, i am able to change it or i have a friend that can help me change it.
The boot is okay yes. The play is on the stub and the end of the cv shaft. My main concern right now is the slow leak. If it wasnt for the slow leak, i wouldnt have even noticed. it doesnt vibrate or drive any different than it did when i got it two years ago.

my concerns are the pricing of the stub axle ( 40 on rock auto vs the whole kit on ebay for 120 vs the whole kit on advanced auto for 700) and can i just add diff fluid until it gets worse - as it isnt bothering the driving etc right now
 

TotallyHucked

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I JUST watched a video about this a few days ago. Take a look. The fix for this one was just a new CV shaft IIRC. The splines wearing was causing the powdery rust. A new CV and an axle seal/diff seal sounds like it might be all you need

 
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jcash414

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I JUST watched a video about this a few days ago. Take a look. The fix for this one was just a new CV shaft IIRC. The splines wearing was causing the powdery rust. A new CV and an axle seal/diff seal sounds like it might be all you need


right... which is fine.. But i am still on the fence about pricing.. Napa and Advanced auto have the shaft stub and seal / bearing for $800.. Rock Auto has the shaft ( no seals that i can find?) for 40 bucks.. Ebay has the kit for 120 or 280. I feel like i may try the 280 kit
 

rzr6-4

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Without knowing exactly what's wrong its hard to say what parts you should get, but any time it comes to parts that rotate you need to do it correctly. When it comes to rotating (drive line) parts, it is much easier to fix them when they start to wear than after the "spontaneous self disassembly". I had a U-joint go from I didn't even know it was bad to obnoxiously loud and had to tow it home in about 10 miles. Just get it fixed because you never know when it will totally fail.
 

TotallyHucked

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right... which is fine.. But i am still on the fence about pricing.. Napa and Advanced auto have the shaft stub and seal / bearing for $800.. Rock Auto has the shaft ( no seals that i can find?) for 40 bucks.. Ebay has the kit for 120 or 280. I feel like i may try the 280 kit
You sure you need the stub? My CV's are starting to get just a little wiggle room in them from wearing in, but the stub doesn't move. So I'm just gonna do CVs and maybe outer seals and call it good
 

Wild one

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right... which is fine.. But i am still on the fence about pricing.. Napa and Advanced auto have the shaft stub and seal / bearing for $800.. Rock Auto has the shaft ( no seals that i can find?) for 40 bucks.. Ebay has the kit for 120 or 280. I feel like i may try the 280 kit
Your cheapest option might be to remove the CV's and front driveshaft.You can actually pull everything ahead of the transfer case and run it with-out any of the front 4X4 pieces if you wanted,but in your case just removing the CV's and front driveshaft will give you your cheapest stop/gap fix. No the front wheels won't fall off with-out the CV's,some moron will try to tell you that,so just a heads up.The 2X4's and 4X4's use the same front hub and wheel bearing assembly.My 4X4 hasn't had any front 4X4 parts since it was 6 months old,as it's almost 3/10's quicker at the dragstrip with-out the front diff/cv's and front driveshaft
 
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jcash414

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Your cheapest option might be to remove the CV's and front driveshaft.You can actually pull everything ahead of the transfer case and run it with-out any of the front 4X4 pieces if you wanted,but in your case just removing the CV's and front driveshaft will give you your cheapest stop/gap fix. No the front wheels won't fall off with-out the CV's,some moron will try to tell you that,so just a heads up.The 2X4's and 4X4's use the same front hub and wheel bearing assembly.My 4X4 hasn't had any front 4X4 parts since it was 6 months old,as it's almost 3/10's quicker at the dragstrip with-out the front diff/cv's and front driveshaft
I mean im not that big of a tight ass.... I want it fixed. No one here has said yes buy the advanced auto set that's 500 bucks more. That's what in looking for. Is the advanced auto set really 3x better than amazon/ rock auto /ebay?
 

Wild one

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I mean im not that big of a tight ass.... I want it fixed. No one here has said yes buy the advanced auto set that's 500 bucks more. That's what in looking for. Is the advanced auto set really 3x better than amazon/ rock auto /ebay?
Post up the links to the kits you're looking at,easier to give you an answer if we see what you're looking at.
 

Jeepwalker

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I was going to mention above, some 'freeplay' is common. If it moves up and down a LOT, then your in new-shaft city. But a little play is quite common.. and generally not leak.
 

Forsakentalon

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Just did my 2017...left side easy. Right side painful. All started because I saw some grease in my fender well.

Right side repair...it's in depth but not impossible.


There are cheaper versions on Amazon and eBay. But this is cheaper than dorman.

The left intermediate axle is easier and easy to find.

This video is the common man's method with no fancy press

 

jr27236

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I mean im not that big of a tight ass.... I want it fixed. No one here has said yes buy the advanced auto set that's 500 bucks more. That's what in looking for. Is the advanced auto set really 3x better than amazon/ rock auto /ebay?
No, advanced auto parts are not the best by any bet. But just for a heads up for yourself and everyone else reading. If you find a part on advanced auto and find that SAME part elsewhere for cheaper, you can CALL advanced autos 800 number and they will price match and have it available in store for pickup if they stock it locally
 

ram1500rsm

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I'm sorry to put this way but you will be replacing aftermarket OE like axelshafts at every oil change. Moog, Cardone, Advanced auto, Napa, Detroit Auto, it doesn't matter. All Made in China POS. I have 132k miles in my stockers and still going good with no issues. Bad thing about the stockers is the price. I've had my truck on 35's, then 37's, then back to 35's and the stockers continue to kick butt for these many miles. They're still there unmolested and she's not a hwy princess only / nor a work truck so not hwy/city cruiser, she's seen a lot of miles in hwy and city sure but also lots of dirt roads when things are constantly cycling up and down a lot and in a harsh way so much better proof setup matters and the stockers work more than fine. Cv shafts seem to be an item that the OE aftermarket seems to be making very poorly regardless of application and in this instance NONE can't beat the Mopar parts. I'm sure the version Dirt King sell for their long travel kits is probably superior in many ways but you can't get that from anywhere but Dirt King and they won't fit a factory like application, plus if you thought the Mopar ones were expensive those are a lot more money.

Some people will tell you the OE cheapy ones have lifetime warranties. Well no wonder they have that if you're changing your oil along with the cv shafts :) but even if the part had a lifetime warranty in this instance if you're paying a shop to change these items you'll have to pay them again to replace everytime. Spend once cry once. Mopar CV shafts are the best for our trucks with no equals on the cheapy side.

My .002 cents.
 

Tominator223

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I would look for a local cv rebuilder & go pick their brain. And see if they’ll sell you just the part(s) you need. i.e. seal/bearing(s). Or if they’ll fix it. Maybe it just had ice cream .
 
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