2019 1500 Laramie 4X4 - Airbags for rear, new springs, or both?

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Rickj514

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Hi All,

We have a nicely optioned 2019 Ram 1500 4X4 Laramie (Gen 5) that we bought used about a year ago. We use the truck as our daily driver as my wife has a tiny BMW Z4 which is useless for anything except looking cool. We occasionally also use the truck as a tow vehicle for our travel trailer. We're very happy with the truck with one exception - the payload capacity. Here are the relevant stats:

RAM1500
- 5.7 Hemi (no e-torque)
- Off-road with all the options (1" lift, decent control, skid plates, e-locker, etc.)
- 7100 lb GVWR
- 1278 lb payload capacity
- 3.92 gearing
- 33 gallon tank
- 17,000 lb GCVW

TRAVEL TRAILER (Bumper-Pull)
- Forest River Flagstaff Microlight 25FBLS
- Exterior length: 25'11" (hitch to bumper)
- "Stated" hitch weight: 714 lbs (actual 800 - 850 lbs)
- Empty weight (UVW): 5368 lbs (actual probably 5800 lbs)

WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH
- Reese Steadi-Flex with anti-sway
- Max hitch weight: 1200 lbs
- Spring bars: 1000 - 1200 lbs
- Total weight: 93 lbs


As you can see, with an average tongue weight of 800 lbs, me (210 lbs), my wife (125 lbs), our dog (30 lbs, etc. we're running at the upper limits of the truck with some gear in the bed. The trailer also has a large storage section near the front (the "basement"), which encourages front-loading of the trailer. We load the generator, tools, and other heavy gear in the read bathroom to take some weight off the front and plan to eventually install a receiver with a storage box behind bumper to bring the hitch weight to about 725 lbs / 12.5% of trailer weight.

THE TRUCK SITS A LITTLE LOW IN THE REAR WHEN EVERYTHING IS LOADED, even though we have a properly set up and capable WDH. Perhaps 3" lower than I would like and about 1.5" lower than the front. (Reversing the shank and going up one hole makes it too high.) Even so, the truck handles great and this is not the basis of my questions.

Now, for the questions...

I would like to optimize the truck and get it as level as possible for optimal handling, mainly when towing. I have been contemplating installing air bags in the rear and a leveling kit in the front. The leveling kit in the front would be secondary and to bring the front up to the same height as the rear when not towing. When towing, the air bags should allow me to set the rear as required to keep the truck level.

Does that sound like the best approach, or would replacing the rear coil springs be a better option? Would I need to do both? I know the off-road package includes stiffer shocks, but I think the springs are the standard variety. I'm not interested in lifting the truck much beyond the 1.5" lift it already has.

OK, I recognize that a 2500 would have been mode ideal for payload capacity and towing, but we had other valid reasons for going with the 1500. Just trying to make the best of what we have.

Thanks in advance,

Rick
 
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Elkman

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Payload capacity is a calulated value done at the factory based on how the truck is configured when it leaves the plant. The load capacity is largely dependent on the wheels and tires on the truck. Check the tires and upgrade them. My truck tires from the factory were rated at 3095 lbs and I replaced them with ones rated at 3750 lbs.

I added SuperSprings to the rear leaf springs and that also improved the payload capacity. These cost me $445 and took me an hour to install.

Air bags are helpful for towing a 5th wheel trailer as you can adjust the height of the bed to the inch. But if one fails then you will have problems driving home.
 
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Rickj514

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Thanks for your response, Elkman.

Believe it or not, this is my first truck and I've been learning a lot! I thought that the payload capacity of the truck, as stated in the inside door sticker, was an absolute number. Basically, the GVWR of 7100 lbs minus the truck and all its bulk and options? I though that you can only increase the actual payload capacity number by removing stuff from the truck such as getting rid of the skid plates or other options to reduce weight. The load capacity of my tires is 2535 lbs each, for a total capacity of over 10,000 lbs so they don't seem like a limiting factor.

At any rate I've been going on that basis, and my goal is to optimize handling since I am so close to the actual limits of the truck. I don't know what the actual limiting factor is (axles, wheels, etc.), but as configured for towing my trailer I'm pretty close to that GVWR of 7100 lbs.

I can tow far more that the weight of my trailer, so I do off-load things into / onto the trailer rather than carry them in the truck bed.

Thanks!
 

runamuck

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I have similar size trailer..but only about 600# on the tongue..so mine sits level. my son put air bags on the rear of his '17 so I plan to put some on my '19 because he says the bags make the rear end feel a lot more solid when he tows. they were only about 85-90$. mine has only 1324# cargo cap.
 
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Rickj514

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I have similar size trailer..but only about 600# on the tongue..so mine sits level. my son put air bags on the rear of his '17 so I plan to put some on my '19 because he says the bags make the rear end feel a lot more solid when he tows. they were only about 85-90$. mine has only 1324# cargo cap.

Thanks for your answer! The Forest River Microlight and MiniLight trailers are designed such that they all have heavier than typical tongue weights, and putting a cavernous storage area at the front of the trailer aggravates the problem. I'm hoping that by adding a receiver and storage right behind the bumper I'll be able to reduce my tongue weight to a more reasonable 700 lbs or so.

What kind of air bags were they? That's very affordable.
 

runamuck

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Thanks for your answer! The Forest River Microlight and MiniLight trailers are designed such that they all have heavier than typical tongue weights, and putting a cavernous storage area at the front of the trailer aggravates the problem. I'm hoping that by adding a receiver and storage right behind the bumper I'll be able to reduce my tongue weight to a more reasonable 700 lbs or so.

What kind of air bags were they? That's very affordable.

Air lift 1000
 

Tim7139

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I added SuperSprings to the rear leaf springs and that also improved the payload capacity. These cost me $445 and took me an hour to install.
His 1500 does not have leaf springs.

While you can make your vehicle more capable you can not change your legal payload capacity beyond removing or adding weight to your truck. Depending on where you travel, your insurer, and your own risk tolerance that may or may not matter. A sad example of the gap between common sense and the law.

Some will remove the tailgate and move the spare tire to the TT to remove rear axle weight and free up payload.
 

Tim7139

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QUOTE="Elkman, post: 2356967, member: 69090"]The load capacity is largely dependent on the wheels and tires on the truck. Check the tires and upgrade them. My truck tires from the factory were rated at 3095 lbs and I replaced them with ones rated at 3750 lbs.[/QUOTE]
Tire load capacity is a horse of another colour.

Your tire load is how much the tire itself can hold. It has to meet or exceed the needs based on your gross axle weight rating (GAWR). Tire load will be more than half of the GAWR to accommodate corning forces and slight load imbalances.

Some feel that by moving to a tire with a higher load rating they are increasing their payload. If it was the tires load rating caused the SAE J2807 formula to limit the payload number that would be true practically but not legally. It's probable the manufacturer fail to meet the requirements for a higher capacity based on one or more other items before tire load rating.

Others feel that by moving to a tire with a higher load rating they are reducing the chance of a blow. This is contested be people believing the stiffer tires are more susceptible to damage from road imperfections and debris, are that the additional tire ply create additional failure point.
 

2019RamInSC

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We have pretty much the same truck. With a slightly higher payload at 1390. Our travel trailer is bigger and longer at about 6400 loaded and a hitch weight about 750 lbs and 31.5 feet long.
I have an Equal-Izer hitch 10,000/1,000. I am happy with the set up. It tows great and no sway with 18 wheelers going either direction. And the truck and trailer are pretty level.

We do not travel with water, waste or fresh. How about you?
I have nothing in bed of truck like you except for some lawn chairs. War Department, myself and Stella the Rottie take up most of what is left of payload as you have seen.
I keep the pass thru storage filled with very lite items. My tool bags and boxes, I keep in the trailer on the floor in the back until we get to our campsite. Then move them to the bed of the truck. I also have a Storage Rack in back of trailer. Which is supposed to support 300 lbs. But is barely carrying 50 lbs now.

Hitch set up is the most important thing. I had 2 dealers screw it up. I finally worked on it myself and that helped and found a dealer that knew what they were doing. The second time LOL.


Good Luck and if you have any questions about my setup, glad to answer. I will post some pictures later.
 
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Rickj514

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We have pretty much the same truck. With a slightly higher payload at 1390. Our travel trailer is bigger and longer at about 6400 loaded and a hitch weight about 750 lbs and 31.5 feet long.
I have an Equal-Izer hitch 10,000/1,000. I am happy with the set up. It tows great and no sway with 18 wheelers going either direction. And the truck and trailer are pretty level.

We do not travel with water, waste or fresh. How about you?
I have nothing in bed of truck like you except for some lawn chairs. War Department, myself and Stella the Rottie take up most of what is left of payload as you have seen.
I keep the pass thru storage filled with very lite items. My tool bags and boxes, I keep in the trailer on the floor in the back until we get to our campsite. Then move them to the bed of the truck. I also have a Storage Rack in back of trailer. Which is supposed to support 300 lbs. But is barely carrying 50 lbs now.

Hitch set up is the most important thing. I had 2 dealers screw it up. I finally worked on it myself and that helped and found a dealer that knew what they were doing. The second time LOL.


Good Luck and if you have any questions about my setup, glad to answer. I will post some pictures later.

Thanks for your response. I have played around with the Reese WDH quite a bit and I think I've got it as well adjusted as possible. It does sound like our setups are pretty similar as well as our approach to loading, etc. to try to stay within the load capacity limitations of the truck.

I need to get busy putting the receiver hitch on so I can get a storage rack back there for my tools, small generator, etc. I do have a Shurline scale for measuring the tongue weight.

Unless somebody convinces me otherwise I plan to install air bags in the rear to help stabilize it, and I'll probably leave it at that.
 

2019RamInSC

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Thanks for your response. I have played around with the Reese WDH quite a bit and I think I've got it as well adjusted as possible. It does sound like our setups are pretty similar as well as our approach to loading, etc. to try to stay within the load capacity limitations of the truck.

I need to get busy putting the receiver hitch on so I can get a storage rack back there for my tools, small generator, etc. I do have a Shurline scale for measuring the tongue weight.

Unless somebody convinces me otherwise I plan to install air bags in the rear to help stabilize it, and I'll probably leave it at that.

FYI. Not an expert on trailers. But I have seen posted on RV forums that Receiver hitches on the back of trailers need to be attached to the frame not the bumper.

This is a storage rack I have from Lippert. It bolts to the frame and no receiver hitch required. Unfortunately this one is not sold anymore. But they offer a smaller capacity one

Have fun!.

IMG_20200822_145848.jpg

IMG_20200822_145816.jpg
 
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Rickj514

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FYI. Not an expert on trailers. But I have seen posted on RV forums that Receiver hitches on the back of trailers need to be attached to the frame not the bumper.

This is a storage rack I have from Lippert. It bolts to the frame and no receiver hitch required. Unfortunately this one is not sold anymore. But they offer a smaller capacity one

Have fun!.

Thanks. That's a great setup you have on the back of your trailer. I have read lots of horror stories of folks attaching hitches, bike racks, carriers, etc. to the bumpers, and the weld breaking loose dumping everything behind the trailer! I've been planning on installing a Curt receiver hitch that attaches to the frame.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033WNJV4/

I could get any variety of cargo carriers at that point. The only thing I don't like is that they stick out quite a way behind the trailer, which is less than ideal. Some fold up when not in use though. There are bumper supports that transfer the load to the frame, but I haven't seen any cargo carriers I like that would work with them that fold up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WK9CD3/

I like that Lipper storage rack you have. Too bad they only have a smaller one now. The hitch receiver is likely the best scenario as I'm looking at getting a small 250cc bike that I can bring along. I should be able to get it to work somehow without unweighting the front too much as I can always add weight to the front storage area. Lots of options.

I love this truck and trailer, but it has been one big project since getting them!

Thanks again! (Last week near Carbondale, CO.)

Rick

IMG_4944.JPG
 

El Huapo

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I put the Airlift 1,000's on my truck and like them very much. There is always the possibility of "popping" one when out on a trip but I'm not too concerned with that. I have changed out rear coil springs a long time ago on an El Camino and it was easy to do---I got "progressive" springs and they were great, not rough when unloaded and stronger with increasing loads as needed. Airlift also makes a heavier-duty air bag setup good for 2,000# I believe which would be thicker, not much more expensive. But I'm also thinking that with a good WDH you should be able to adjust things so much you push the front of your truck down at the most extreme end---not that you'd want to, no? In addition, I've found that for harder-working trucks, I was always pleased with changing the tires over to "LT"-rated models, they're rated to do truck stuff more so than "P"-rated ones. And remember as a previous responder noted, the LEGAL load/tow rating is what an insurer would check if an accident occurred and if you're over that, they could leave you hanging, no matter what mods you've done.
 

runamuck

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I plan to put the air bags on my laramie mainly to solidify the back end when towing. my truck does a good job of towing our 6000# trailer but I am always looking for tweaks I can do. I would swap the tires to LT's but the Falken wildpeaks have a great ride and I make several trips a year up in the mountains to ski during the winter so I hate to give up their stickyness on wet and snowy roads for something else. I dont have a problem from passing big rigs when towing but a good crosswind gust can make for some pucker.
 

2019RamInSC

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Just to show a picture :p

And you can see it rides pretty level. Trailer and truck.

Good Luck!IMG_20200615_112615.jpg
 

gord911

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I have the Airlift 1000's in my 2010 sport and they make a huge difference. Empty when driving around, 90lbs with the utility trailer or horse trailer. Brings it up level, and a decent ride. If they are inflated and your empty, it's like driving around in a 2500...rough..lol. I plan on taking out of the 2010 and putting them into the 2020 Bighorn.
 
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Rickj514

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I have the Airlift 1000's in my 2010 sport and they make a huge difference. Empty when driving around, 90lbs with the utility trailer or horse trailer. Brings it up level, and a decent ride. If they are inflated and your empty, it's like driving around in a 2500...rough..lol. I plan on taking out of the 2010 and putting them into the 2020 Bighorn.

Thanks. I've definitely decided that I'm going with an Airlift system before the next time we take the trailer out! At some point, I will likely also put a leveling kit on the front so the truck will sit more level when not towing.
 

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Airbags before spring upgrade. if bags don't fix your issues then there are other problems or you need a bigger truck or both. lol
 
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