Broken intake manifold bolt causing coolant leak

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sorry I didn't get step by step pictures. 1st bolt was fairly easy, 2nd bolt I went through 6 drill bits MAKING SURE I was centered before using extractor. any questions feel free but I'm still looking for any "tricks" for leak free gasket install. Thank You.

PLEASE advise on sealant or thread locker on new TTY intake bolts. I'm thinking blue thread locker or #2 sealant. Also have high temp thread sealer. Plus I use hi-tack a lot as well as aviation sealant. All assembly suggestions appreciated.
 
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ramman54

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Good to hear! I'm trying to find my repair manuals (recently moved from 3 bdrm, 2 car garage house into tiny apt). I "thought" it was blue thread sealer but now not sure. Will let you know.
 
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Glad to hear from you ramman54. I've been researching but no definite answers. Some say blue thread locker, some say red, edelbrock suggests an engine assembly lube. Also anti-sieze. I bought the Felpro bolts because they were in stock locally, no information tho. I was thinking permatex hi temp thread sealant as it seals and keeps bolt in place. I DON'T want to do this job again.

Still asking opinions on gasket adhesives/sealers too. Not sure if I should go by the Haynes book since gaskets are better these days. Haynes says use quick dry gasket cement on front and rear rubber gaskets. What is quick dry gasket cement? Weatherstrip adhesive? Would hi tack work? So many types of rtv and sealants I'm confused. I really appreciate advice.
 

ramman54

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So far found a Haynes manual and it doesn't using any thread locker. You should be able to get regular gasket adhesive (permatex makes it ?) in either brush or spray form. It's high tack to hold the gasket in place during reassembly. The rtv is used in the 4 corners where the gaskets meet. Put a bead across each joint for a good seal.
I'll keep looking for my other manual. Right now I'm going from memory and it's been a few years. Don't want to give bad advice.
 
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I understand. Thanks for helping me. I got ultra black for corners and I have hi tack and aviation. Just wondering because some people say don't use front/rear gaskets, just rtv like "rite stuff". I would like to use the gaskets.

Think Haynes says rtv on manifold to head gaskets, stuck on that one, don't think need any for Felpro gaskets.

Well you helped me solve one more part and I can't thank you enough for your time and effort.

Didn't know was so hard to replace injector seals and o-rings. Sure worth it. Getting close to home stretch.
 
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Okay I think understand hi tack to hold seals and rtv in corners where gaskets meet.

Haynes book says end seals fit into "tangs". I don't have any. Did head gaskets have tangs? If so mine are long gone. There are holes in block for end seals but no tangs. No tangs on new head side intake gaskets either. New end seals have grooves for tangs. All four corners were very rusted.

Thank you. Wondering where my tangs went and concerned about leaks.

Edit: I test fit and now see what tangs the gaskets are positioned on. Thought I was missing something and trying to beat the rain.

2nd edit: head side gaskets do fit into tangs on head gasket, but after it slides down head. Maybe there were tangs that rusted. Think I'll have to use something to hold them in place. Tomorrow. I didn't beat rain.

Again, advice appreciated. I'm just curious if this is normal or parts of my head gaskets rusted away with intake gaskets.
 
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Okay, was little worked up. I used the best 4 old intake bolts and cut the heads off and ground smooth as not to scratch intake and used them for lining up intake. The side gaskets and end gaskets do go together like a puzzle. Instead of following Haynes I used hi tack instead of rtv on head side intake gaskets but did use black rtv in corners. Only regret is not being able to afford aftermarket plenum.

Thank you everyone for your help and knowledge. I really appreciate everyone guiding me through this.

Wanted to add I used the 4 corners and slots should be cut in old bolts for a screwdriver, one was almost flush and I didn't cut slots. Was barely enough to remove it, I got lucky.
 
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ramman54

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Apologies for not getting back sooner, been laid up again. But sounds like you are just about done anyway. Let us know how it turns out!:happy160:
 
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No problem. I got it on, followed torque sequence and specified torque up to 72 inch pounds than waited an hour, following ultra black rtv instructions, then followed torque sequence to 144 inch pounds, or 12 foot pounds.

I read a few posts that said since the intake bolts are through bolted that oil creeps up threads and pools around bolt heads on intake. Because of this I used permatex hi temp thread sealant, it seals and prevents bolts from loosening. I've used it on other applications like differential drain and fill plugs and works great. Just clean all threads with brake cleaner first. I tried chasing threads with a clean old bolt and could only thread it by hand through 2 bolt holes so i used a tap on all of the bolt holes, mine are 5/16×18 but check. Earlier years are 3/8×16. I also smeared grease at the corner bolts underneath the heads the day after install to help prevent rusting since the bottoms of those 4 bolts are exposed.

I had clean shop rags tucked in well everywhere in valley and had shop vac going too to keep everything clean. My finger was small enough to push shop rag to bottoms of bolt holes so I could clean threads with brake cleaner and not get it or debris anywhere but the shop rag.

I'll be reconnecting everything today. I want to wait full 24 hours before adding fluids and starting which will be this afternoon. I let you know! Thanks again, couldn't have done it without your help.
 
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Something came up and I can't work on my Ram today. I did, however, have a talk with an old friend that is a mechanic. I want to tell the story as it may help other Ram owners.

I explained what I had done and what I'm doing. Two things that concerned him. First is not getting a better plenum and second the type of rtv I used on the plenum gasket.

I followed Haynes and applied rtv to the plenum gasket, but very thin smear with brake cleaner clean finger. Here's the dilemma. When I went to my local parts/service store I explained in detail what I needed rtv for. The employee pointed out the permatex hi temp orange and said that is what Honda and Toyota uses. Sounded great. On the front says hi temp and oxygen sensor safe and pressure resistant. So that is what I used.

My friend told me that is what I SHOULDN'T have used. He said I should have used permatex copper, either spray or ultra copper in tube (better). Second choice would be their black, which I had at home! (says gasket maker, not dressing, but i learned sometimes that doesnt matter). I asked about using hi tack and he said that would have been better than the orange I bought, think it is 27B. Sure enough I read the back, should have done that at store, and says not good for some aluminum alloys. I pretty much wanted to throw up. He said not the end of the world, especially since I used such a thin coating.

So lesson learned, the hard way, if you're replacing your plenum gasket use the copper rtv if you're going to use an rtv, or black, and spend the $100 for a better plenum. Also research, like our forum, I bet that info is here, and don't always trust a sales clerk.

This is just one mechanic's opinion who is familiar with Dodge/Chrysler. I wanted to share it and hopefully it helps someone. So NEXT time I replace the plenum gasket I'll be smearing on ultra copper and buying new plenum. It is an opinion but he's done dozens of them so I trust his opinion. Anaerobics and permashield came up in the discussion but he easily obtains leak free jobs with the ultra copper.

Add: Torque sequence and increments are as important as what sealer you use. I got it from this forum. Also a good torque wrench and they should be calibrated every 6 months, I didn't know the calibration intervals. I just have a Craftsman click style, about $80. My friend's was over $500. Mine is 20-250 inch pound range so when I did my intake I had to start at 20 but supposed to start at 12. Then 12 inch pound increments to final torque. I did 20, 24, 36, 48, etc. I also wrote numbers on bolt heads with a marker so I didn't have to keep looking at sequence diagram.

So I'll let ya know how she runs tomorrow. Thanks.
 
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That was a long story. Does anyone know it the intake manifold bolts need to be re-torqued after engine has run to operating temperature than completely cooled down? I haven't found anything about that so I'm guessing no. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you.
 
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Thanks. Everyone has helped out a lot and I appreciate that. I've only found one suggestion so far and it said 3 heat cycles then re-torque/torque. Other than that nothing. I agree with you, I don't think it could hurt, just want to be sure.

I did read a person unintentionally over-torqued then loosened and torqued properly and had leaks. I wouldn't say that applies to original question but a little extra knowledge never hurts.

I still need to install fan and shroud and coolant and washer tanks. Also have to connect radiator hoses to radiator. I have a leaking transmission cooler line and am replacing while I have the extra room. $43 for just the rubber section (which is the problem) and $44 for entire rubber/metal line. Going to replace whole line for the extra dollar.

So I still have not had the chance to start it up and I am anxious. I believe I have to purge air from fuel lines and reset PCM. I think fuel part is in Haynes but I'm not sure how to reset PCM, or even if I have to.

Do I have to reset it? If so how do I do that? Thank you again. Thanks for everyone's patience too.

P.s.- fan and shroud out because had timing cover leak too so replaced gasket and replaced timing chain and gears while apart. Also new water pump, thermostat, and water outlet.
 
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jf5.9

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Sure is nice to have this to look at - was ripping off the intake to change out to the hughs Plenum and sure as **** my front two intake bolts broke off -I have enough exposed to hopefully get them with a pair of vice grips - keep us in the loop for when you fire her back up!
 

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Thanks. Everyone has helped out a lot and I appreciate that. I've only found one suggestion so far and it said 3 heat cycles then re-torque/torque. Other than that nothing. I agree with you, I don't think it could hurt, just want to be sure.

I did read a person unintentionally over-torqued then loosened and torqued properly and had leaks. I wouldn't say that applies to original question but a little extra knowledge never hurts.

I still need to install fan and shroud and coolant and washer tanks. Also have to connect radiator hoses to radiator. I have a leaking transmission cooler line and am replacing while I have the extra room. $43 for just the rubber section (which is the problem) and $44 for entire rubber/metal line. Going to replace whole line for the extra dollar.

So I still have not had the chance to start it up and I am anxious. I believe I have to purge air from fuel lines and reset PCM. I think fuel part is in Haynes but I'm not sure how to reset PCM, or even if I have to.

Do I have to reset it? If so how do I do that? Thank you again. Thanks for everyone's patience too.

P.s.- fan and shroud out because had timing cover leak too so replaced gasket and replaced timing chain and gears while apart. Also new water pump, thermostat, and water outlet.

No need to reset the PCM or purge air from the fuel lines.

Plug it all back together, and fire 'er up.

I never did any of the above on all the 3.9 gaskets I changed.
 
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Thank you everyone! Running great! If it's any help one of my broken bolts was a little above the head. I tapped (gently with hammer) a 12 point 1/4" socket, 3/8 drive, onto the bolt and it came out with ratchet. I did clean around it and soaked it couple times a day while waiting for parts order.

Other bolt I did what ramman54 said. Just had to be patient.

My Ram runs better than when I bought it. Thank you so much. Any questions about anything please feel free pm or whatever. I can't thank everyone here enough.
 
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Thank you emjohn4, I wasn't sure about that. Since I replaced seals on top and bottom of injectors I did release fuel pressure valve on fuel rail til air came out (with key on position) then gas. I guess I didn't have to though.

Thank you for info about pcm, I got your post before I fired her up so was very happy to start her up with no worries. You're right. No lights on, just runs great. I guess since plenum leak fixed, manifold gaskets replaced so no coolant leaks, also solved vacuum leaks by replacing manifold gaskets. Dam, truck never ran so good. Thank you!!!

I did take her for a ride with new oil and filter at operating temperature then changed oil and filter again. I was very particular about being clean but just in case any coolant or debris was still in there I wanted to make sure it was out.

Many thanks.
 

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I know when I did my plenum gasket I broke 2 intake bolts as well. I used a female extractor socket. goes over the bolt (well now a stud instead) and grips it to remove. Worked like a charm. Lucky enough for me I could pull the intake off before extracting them.
 
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I would like to add some advice. If you encounter this problem and have to remove your intake manifold now is a good time to replace your oil sender. Might as well spend the $20 and replace it while intake is off. It's next to the distributor and a real pain to do when intake is on. Just precautionary measure, it's not uncommon for them to leak or malfunction so might as well while it's easy.
 
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