Bushwacker Fender Flare Install

[spencer1122]

hey guys,

first post so bare with me here if im in the wrong spot. im going to be buying the bushwacker pocketstyle fender flares for my ram in the next week or 2 and had some questions about install and maintenance.

so from my understanding the flares bolt on to just the wheel wells with 6-8 3/4" screws. has this been enough for you guys in terms of the flares staying in place? has anyone added a double sided tape between the rubber seal and truck body to help keep them in place and to help from dirt and grime getting in?

second, ive been reading that these flares can scratch the paint over time if you do not put something in between the body and the rubber seal. would the 2-sided tape work for this and to help keep the flare in place? or should i ditch the 2-sided tape idea and go with a clear-film liner for them?

any info from people that have installed them, or had any issues installing them would be awesome. id love to see pictures, always makes my understanding easier TIA pictures of my truck attatched!

 

[2014greatwhite]

If I was you I would put something there between the rubber and the paint. I have a different brand of flare on my truck and the have rubbed into the clear. From research on google and contacting the company they say this is going to happen with all flares because of the very bration and nothing holding the flare still against the paint. Hope this helps.

 

[quietpeen]

first, love the truck.

2nd I personally would put something between the flare and the truck. I can't say that with the double sided tape on the oem flares, when you take them off there is absolutely no marks on the paint.

 

[firemedic10584]

To answer the original question, yes..using the stock screws to mount the flares to the truck works plenty good and they are on there snug. As far as placing something there between the flare and the truck, the bushwackers come with the rubber trim which closes the gap and makes a barrier between the flare and body of the truck. I've never had any issues with mine damaging the paint using just the rubber pieces. I don't use any double sided tape either.

 

[JIMBOX]

I've had my "BUSHWACKERS" on for three months now and they are pretty easy to install using the "EXISTING" FENDER LINER SCREWS, with some additional screws in existing holes--

The big chrome display bolts are just that--fake attachment bolts and they only attach to the flares themselves-

The flares come with the trim rubber for protection of the paint, where the flare edge presses against the fender !

If you're worried to much about the effect on the fender paint---then forget the flares, I don't care because I like the looks of mine and they're staying pn !

Good luck

JIMBO

 

[joeygster]

The Bushwacker pocket flares aren't that hard to install. Just follow the instructions. The rubber edge trim gave me some issues. My flares were the pre-painted ones so the edge was already installed...but done badly by some yahoo at the factory. I contacted Bushwacker about it & they sent me a new trim kit that I had to install on my own. The Bushwacker rep told me that on the front flares the edge trim stops prior to returning on the underside of the front tip piece (see orange Ram pic link at bottom of post). I didn't like that idea so I stopped the trim where the Bushwacker rep said to, but then added a small additional piece on the underside portion of the flare (see 1st pic of my flares - driver's side).

When installing the rubber edge trim, using a hair dryer to warm the rubber makes it more pliable to form around the flares...especially the front flares at the front section....there's a couple of zigs & zags you have to get around. The instructions require you to make a couple of cuts with those zigs & zags. There is a pic of the cuts you have to make in this link.
http://www.ramforum.com/f41/bushwacker_pocket_flare_edge_trim_issues_-_looking_tips-89617/

There is a lot of information out there that over time the rubber edge trim will wear into your clearcoat. I was initially concerned about it, but most people don't worry about so I decided not to either...I think it'll take a long time for that too happen & I don't intend to remove the flares. You'll get far more damage to your paint from the wheel well black trim spats that come on the Sport from the factory.

If you're really concerned about the rubbing of the clearcoat, I've read of different solutions to the issue. One guy used black electrical tape under the rubber edge trim to protect the clearcoat. He pulled off the flares after 3 years or so & the tape was hardly damaged at all.

Another option would be the 3M clear film installed under the rubber edge trim. Here's a link to 3M Clear film door protection kit that would probably fit your needs.
https://www.amazon.ca/3M-08582-Door-Edge-Protection/dp/B00650NY6G

You can also buy the 3M Clear film in bulk rolls in varying widths.

Here are some pics of my flares.

 

[spencer1122]

The Bushwacker pocket flares aren't that hard to install. Just follow the instructions. The rubber edge trim gave me some issues.

When installing the rubber edge trim, using a hair dryer to warm the rubber makes it more pliable to form around the flares...especially the front flares at the front section....there's a couple of zigs & zags you have to get around. The instructions require you to make a couple of cuts with those zigs & zags. There is a pic of the cuts you have to make in this link.
http://www.ramforum.com/f41/bushwacker_pocket_flare_edge_trim_issues_-_looking_tips-89617/

There is a lot of information out there that over time the rubber edge trim will wear into your clearcoat. I was initially concerned about it, but most people don't worry about so I don't either...I think it'll take a long time for that too happen & I don't intend to remove the flares. You'll get far more damage to your paint from the wheel well black trim spats that come on the Sport from the factory.

If you're really concerned about the rubbing of the clearcoat, I've read of different solutions to the issue. One guy used black electrical tape under the rubber edge trim to protect the clearcoat. He pulled off the flares after 3 years or so & the tape was hardly damaged at all.

Another option would be the 3M clear film installed under the rubber edge trim. Here's a link to 3M Clear film door protection kit that would probably fit your needs. https://www.amazon.ca/3M-08582-Door-Edge-Protection/dp/B00650NY6G

You can also buy the 3M Clear film in bulk rolls in varying widths.

Here are some pics of my flares.

Thanks for the reply, you didnt have to move the HEMI emblem eh? was wondering if that would have to go or not.

probably going to just put them on as i dont think ill be taking them off ever. i think it could make a nice truck look bad if the electrical tape or 3M film wasnt perfectly in line with flare which could be hard to do. *edit* i saw this tape online and was wondering what you thought of that?

http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-tough-and-clear-mounting-tape

 

[spencer1122]

first, love the truck.

2nd I personally would put something between the flare and the truck. I can't say that with the double sided tape on the oem flares, when you take them off there is absolutely no marks on the paint.

thanks for the reply, i too want too use something for protection but feel i could make a nice truck look really crappy if not done perfectly.

i was looking at a double sided tape that had a foam barrier (link attached) and was still clear! was thinking about going with that for protection and extra hold on the flare. again if not installed perfectly it could turn into a **** show fairly quickly haha. what your thoughts on using that tape?

Gorilla Tough & Clear Mounting Tape | Gorilla Glue

 

[joeygster]

Thanks for the reply, you didnt have to move the HEMI emblem eh? was wondering if that would have to go or not.

probably going to just put them on as i dont think ill be taking them off ever. i think it could make a nice truck look bad if the electrical tape or 3M film wasnt perfectly in line with flare which could be hard to do. *edit* i saw this tape online and was wondering what you thought of that?

Gorilla Tough & Clear Mounting Tape | Gorilla Glue

My flares were originally the unpainted version painted & installed by my dealers third party shop. They did a crap paint job & I'd paid for the pre-painted so that's how I ended up playing with them myself taking them on & off. My Hemi badges didn't look like they were moved, but I can't be sure.

I've heard of some badges that do & some don't. Once you have your edge trim on & your factory wheel well trim off, you should be able to hold the flares in place & see if they fit without moving the badges.

The downside I see with the Gorilla Tape is that if any of the tape is visible it'll be an eyesore that will collect debris on the adhesive. The 3M tape less so. The other issue is that if the foam is not closed cell (water resistant), but open cell, it'll soak in water & that's not a good thing.

 

[spencer1122]

My flares were originally the unpainted version painted & installed by my dealers third party shop. They did a crap paint job & I'd paid for the pre-painted so that's how I ended up playing with them myself taking them on & off. My Hemi badges didn't look like they were moved, but I can't be sure.

I've heard of some badges that do & some don't. Once you have your edge trim on & your factory wheel well trim off, you should be able to hold the flares in place & see if they fit without moving the badges.

The downside I see with the Gorilla Tape is that if any of the tape is visible it'll be an eyesore that will collect debris on the adhesive. The 3M tape less so. The other issue is that if the foam is not closed cell (water resistant), but open cell, it'll soak in water & that's not a good thing.

i think i may get the 3rd party shop im buying the flares from to install them too. they only want 100$ for the install and im sure theyd do a better job than i could. ill talk to them about adding in something for paint protection around the wheel well.

after more research last night i found something else that should be a winner.

3M™ VHB™ Tape, 4910, clear, 5/8 in x 36 yd, 40.0 mil | 3M Canada

its clear, thin, and it says its somewhat shock absorbant. im not sure how permanent it would be if i ever wanted to take it off though. im really more interested in saving the paint so rust doesnt form over time. have a look at this stuff and let me know what you think.

 

[joeygster]

i think i may get the 3rd party shop im buying the flares from to install them too. they only want 100$ for the install and im sure theyd do a better job than i could. ill talk to them about adding in something for paint protection around the wheel well.

after more research last night i found something else that should be a winner.

3M™ VHB™ Tape, 4910, clear, 5/8 in x 36 yd, 40.0 mil | 3M Canada

its clear, thin, and it says its somewhat shock absorbant. im not sure how permanent it would be if i ever wanted to take it off though. im really more interested in saving the paint so rust doesnt form over time. have a look at this stuff and let me know what you think.

The 3M shock absorbant tape sounds like a promising option. Let us know how you make out.

In my opinion, if the company you're buying the flares will install them for $100, then I'd go for it. I'm not overly handy....some other forum members that are handy might disagree with me.

Another idea some people have got with is applying the 3M Clearfilm or the Xpel film to the entire front fenders & the bedsides. That's be expensive though. I paid $500 Can for the Xpel Ultra for my front bumper. The 3M would be cheaper, but you'd still be looking at around $1000 for those four panels.

I might add that if you have the Sport with the black plastic protection (called spats)behind the wheel wells, I had to remove my front ones but was able to keep the rear ones. The spats in front of the rear wheels will still fit with the flares. I had to cut the ones behind the rear wheels however with a dremel tool & then re-install them. For a guy who's not very handy, I considered this a big accomplishment.

http://www.ramforum.com/f40/protecting_pinchweld_area_after_removal_spats-87241/

 

[zogg]

I was aware this rubbing could happen...I also intend to leave them on so they will cover any issue...I like them

 

[spencer1122]

The 3M shock absorbant tape sounds like a promising option. Let us know how you make out.

In my opinion, if the company you're buying the flares will install them for $100, then I'd go for it. I'm not overly handy....some other forum members that are handy might disagree with me.

Another idea some people have got with is applying the 3M Clearfilm or the Xpel film to the entire front fenders & the bedsides. That's be expensive though. I paid $500 Can for the Xpel Ultra for my front bumper. The 3M would be cheaper, but you'd still be looking at around $1000 for those four panels.

I might add that if you have the Sport with the black plastic protection (called spats)behind the wheel wells, I had to remove my front ones but was able to keep the rear ones. The spats in front of the rear wheels will still fit with the flares. I had to cut the ones behind the rear wheels however with a dremel tool & then re-install them. For a guy who's not very handy, I considered this a big accomplishment.

http://www.ramforum.com/f40/protecting_pinchweld_area_after_removal_spats-87241/

so you had to completely remove the front spats? could you take a picture or 2 so i can see what they look like now with the wheel well? im using mine as a work truck and need them there if thats the case.

the rear ones in the back look perfect. very nice work, im sure some auto accessories shop tech would just try and force the flare over the spat piece

 

[spencer1122]

I was aware this rubbing could happen...I also intend to leave them on so they will cover any issue...I like them

probably going to leave mine permanently as well but ive heard stories of the flares rubbing right through to the steel. not sure about yourself but up here in canada that exposed steel will start to rust within a couple cold winters and then spread like cancer. trying everything i can to avoid this.

 

[joeygster]

so you had to completely remove the front spats? could you take a picture or 2 so i can see what they look like now with the wheel well? im using mine as a work truck and need them there if thats the case.

the rear ones in the back look perfect. very nice work, im sure some auto accessories shop tech would just try and force the flare over the spat piece

Yup the front spats couldn't stay on even a trimmed version. The first pic in the below link shows the Bushwacker flare with the front spat removed.

http://www.ramforum.com/f40/protecting_pinchweld_area_after_removal_spats-87241/

You can see those two bolts are now exposed. I've got that whole area covered in a heavy axle grease to keep it from getting rusted by the winter sand blasting it will get.

 

[mpittman]

I was told by a Bushwacker installer to remove them twice a year or so and put a good coat of wax under the flares. Also, the rubber seal needs to be replaced once a year. He said if you this, you should never have any problem with the truck paint.