Crankshaft position sensor

[cheffrank_357]

Hello
I'm still struggling with the crankshaft sensor failing
I've gone thru a few and yesterday I put a new gold standard and it lasted less then an hour! On my 06 ram 5.7 hemi
I had this problem before and last year I took it back to the shop that put in a new motor and the guy just put in a used one that was laying around at no charge. That lasted 8 months? Any thoughts on why it would go thru these things? I checked wires they seem ok


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[Fast69Mopar]

Hello
I'm still struggling with the crankshaft sensor failing
I've gone thru a few and yesterday I put a new gold standard and it lasted less then an hour! On my 06 ram 5.7 hemi
I had this problem before and last year I took it back to the shop that put in a new motor and the guy just put in a used one that was laying around at no charge. That lasted 8 months? Any thoughts on why it would go thru these things? I checked wires they seem ok


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What is happening to the sensor? After using the new crank sensor, when it stops working, is the sensor open or shorted internally?

Have you tried using a DVOM to see what is happening to the sensor?

Your crank sensor is a 3-wire sensor. It has a 5-Volt Supply, a ground and a signal.

What is the voltage in the 5V circuit with the sensor plugged in and unplugged?

Pin #1 = 5V Supply
Pin #2 = Ground
Pin #3 = Signal

 

[cheffrank_357]

I think its getting oul on it
I have an oil leak somewhere down there
When I pulled it out it had oil on it
So I'm towing back to shop that put the rebuilt engine in it to fix it

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[LoneWolf3574]

Clean oil has a very low conductivity measure in picoSiemens per meter (pS/m) or 0.000000000001 S/m. I don't think it's likely the oil is causing a short.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

I think its getting oul on it
I have an oil leak somewhere down there
When I pulled it out it had oil on it
So I'm towing back to shop that put the rebuilt engine in it to fix it

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Do you have the failed sensors? Can you connect your DVOM to each one and see what the resistance is or if the are open?

 

[cheffrank_357]

Do you have the failed sensors? Can you connect your DVOM to each one and see what the resistance is or if the are open?

I have like 6 of them
What would the resistance be?

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[cheffrank_357]

I got my truck back today and didn't quite make it home and the oil pressure sensor failed
Any ideas as to what's going on?
Is there a wire loom for sell that I could swap it out ? It's the crankshaft and oil pressure or camshaft sensor. I figured it out because my oil Guage was zero as I limped it into a suitable parking area
I've replace the crank and cam sensors now
There is a guy who will charge me $150 to look at the wires and test the circuit
I think I can do all that but will I b good enough to fix it? 150 is to test not fix but he runs a car electrical shop
Anybody have any thoughts?

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[MikeT]

From the sounds of your story, every time you change the sensor the thing works for a short period of time, then fails again. I would be looking long and hard at the wires attached to and near that sensor. Very closely check the connections to the sensor, make sure they all are absolutely clean tight and making good contact. check the wiring in the one foot area of the sensor, seems to me that when you disturb the wiring while changing the sensor it makes good contact for a short time then fails again. so I would be looking/investigating the disturbed area very carefully. Hope this helps.

Mike

 

[LoneWolf3574]

I believe that the oil pressure, oil temperature, right side/bank knock sensor, and crank sensor are all on the same length of harness running along where the block and oil pan meet up. I recently replaced the loom and some of the cloth tape covering the wires as they were beginning to rub against the block and we all know sensors LOVE it when wires rub bare against the block.

EDIT - I've added the prints for the crankshaft position sensor, I hope they are of some help to you.

 

[cheffrank_357]

I believe that the oil pressure, oil temperature, right side/bank knock sensor, and crank sensor are all on the same length of harness running along where the block and oil pan meet up. I recently replaced the loom and some of the cloth tape covering the wires as they were beginning to rub against the block and we all know sensors LOVE it when wires rub bare against the block.

EDIT - I've added the prints for the crankshaft position sensor, I hope they are of some help to you.

I'm gonna b looking at it this weekend
Thanks

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[cheffrank_357]

Here's the update
Took the truck to an auto electric expert. He found the intake was full of oil ( I quote he said it was :raining oil") so he rdid intake gasket found the wire harness that was pinched by engine and body. Took it apart and found 2 wires rubbed bare 6 inches fixed re wrapped the loom and put it where it belongs
400 bucks
The sensor are te aftermarket he called me as I had a $200 Mopar crank sensor inside. He said he let it run an hour its fine
I told him that I can do the sensor if need be
But $200 bucks is $200 I was thinking of taking it back as I have a few of the aftermarket sensors around already paid for
What's u think?? I'm gonna take it back 25 or 225
The wires are fixed right?
He said I should do the valve cover gaskets and grommets
He knows I can do some stuff on the truck so he only did what I asked
Valve covers aren't so bad right? I've done a few before but I should be able to do them on weekend right?
Thanks for all you input !


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[LoneWolf3574]

That's great your issue was found and fixed. Most valve cover gaskets these days are an o-ring style and really easy to replace, remove, pull the old, put a new one in the groove, torque to spec, and no more oil leak.

That would depend on the aftermarket sensor brand used. I personally think if it is an NTK (made by NGK), you're good, if it is a Dorman, get rid of it ASAP and run away real fast. For me, a good rule is when in doubt, go with OE.

https://www.ngk.com/application/search