Dana 60 front axle swap

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Ok I bought a 2007 dana 60 front axle with the 35 spline inner/outer, dual piston calipers, stronger unit bearings, and wheel speed sensors. This is the strongest of the dana 60 front axles.
I am installing this axle in my 2010 ram 1500. I was going to make a 12” lift kit for our rams, but the main knuckle manufacturer wanted $25-$30k just to make sand castings. That cost, and the fact that the factory front 1500 differential is so small, and I will be running 40” tires...I decided to do a solid axle swap.

I Looked into downloading a 4 link calculator, but they are only offered for triangulated. Not paralell 4 link.
Does anyone here know anything about paralell 4 link? I noticed the 1500 rear axle uses offset axle control arm mounts. Not sure if I need to replicate this design, or do the same in the front. The front axle originally used a radius arm. 6.6” center bolt hole to bolt hole.

For control arms, I will be using 2” OD 1/4” Wall DOM tubing. Since I drive in snow, I will be using SPC’s flex joint rod ends. They flex 18* more than Johhny joints, and have a rubber seal to keep out mud and snow. Since they are sealed, they do not require greasing or maintenance.
If anyone has any knowledge of paralell 4-link, I would appreciate the help.

(Third picture is factory offset rear control arm mounts).

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Setting ride height to be able to run 40” tires. Current tires are 275/70/17.

 

[hodge-xj]

For ease of everything, why not run a wristed radius arm set up? I get that 4 links have better mannerisms, but unless you're cycling huge amounts of vertical travel (+14") you should not have much issue with castor change or quirks.

My buddy and I are building a mega truck. There's so much involved with 4 links it's disgusting. And that's just for off Road performance. Idk how much each variable effects road driving.

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[hodge-xj]

I can measure off my XJ. The front axle has an offset 5 link.

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[2010 Infantry Vet]

I can measure off my XJ. The front axle has an offset 5 link.

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My 60 originally had a radius arm with two mounts on the axle. I had to cut it off to weld on my truss. I made upper and lower control arm mounts, but I wanna make sure if they need to be different degrees welded on.
I don’t believe a JK or TJ jeep has a 4 link. Dont they have just one lower control arm, and a third welded on top of the diff?

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

For ease of everything, why not run a wristed radius arm set up? I get that 4 links have better mannerisms, but unless you're cycling huge amounts of vertical travel (+14") you should not have much issue with castor change or quirks.

My buddy and I are building a mega truck. There's so much involved with 4 links it's disgusting. And that's just for off Road performance. Idk how much each variable effects road driving.

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[2010 Infantry Vet]

I thought about a radius arm set up, but want the benefits of more flex for off-roading since I have a winch, and will be installing front/rear lockers.
Radius arm the axle top mounts are completely vertical of the lower control arm mount. So I don’t see why the upper arms on a 4 link would need to be offset.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Current ride height with my 38 rolled up next to the superduty wheel mounted on the 60.

 

[hodge-xj]

I thought about a radius arm set up, but want the benefits of more flex for off-roading since I have a winch, and will be installing front/rear lockers.
Radius arm the axle top mounts are completely vertical of the lower control arm mount. So I don’t see why the upper arms on a 4 link would need to be offset.

Jeeps all come with a 4/5 link front and rear. Aftermarket is the only place you'll come across the 3 link setup. I honestly think that they are all offset a bit simply because of location. In order to get proper link separation, they most likely had to offset them to make them fit. Upper links are predominantly inboard of lower links if there is any horizontal separation.


As for radius arms, you can get all the travel you want out of them just as easily. As a matter of fact, on jeep applications you need to be careful, as radius arms unload pretty bad on super steep climbs and can cause weight to transfer into the rear end enough it will flip rearward. That's on the super extreme end of things, but worth noting, you won't have an issue with radius arms. Carli and thuren both had versions of them, the Power wagon as well as most Euro model 4x4s run them.

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[IRSmart]

Instead of spending a billion dollars making a power wagon, why not just buy one? More reliable, and you won’t spend forever to just end up right where we start.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Jeeps all come with a 4/5 link front and rear. Aftermarket is the only place you'll come across the 3 link setup. I honestly think that they are all offset a bit simply because of location. In order to get proper link separation, they most likely had to offset them to make them fit. Upper links are predominantly inboard of lower links if there is any horizontal separation.


As for radius arms, you can get all the travel you want out of them just as easily. As a matter of fact, on jeep applications you need to be careful, as radius arms unload pretty bad on super steep climbs and can cause weight to transfer into the rear end enough it will flip rearward. That's on the super extreme end of things, but worth noting, you won't have an issue with radius arms. Carli and thuren both had versions of them, the Power wagon as well as most Euro model 4x4s run them.

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If I wouldn’t of had to cut off my factory 60 radius arm mounts...I would have went with radius arms. But since they are gone...I will be going with 4 link with track bar.
Thanks for the info on your front axle mount angles. I’m going to call a few places tomorrow and seek their advice.
If anyone here has any 4 link knowledge, I’m all ears.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Found this on Barnes 4x4...but it’s hard to decipher.
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Install-Tips-for-Adding-a-Four-Link-Suspension_b_4.html

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Instead of spending a billion dollars making a power wagon, why not just buy one? More reliable, and you won’t spend forever to just end up right where we start.

I’m not a fan of the actuator and two piece axle shaft used on the power wagon. Ring gear size is 9.25”. Superduty uses a 10” ring gear. Also I enjoy projects, and doing things myself.

 

[IRSmart]

You’ll find that a larger differential is not exactly a desirable thing offroad. I haven’t heard of a single gear or axle shaft failure on any of these trucks. I can fully appreciate a project, it’s just that a PW would give you a much bigger head start. Trust me, no shortage of projects available for heavy duties.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

You’ll find that a larger differential is not exactly a desirable thing offroad. I haven’t heard of a single gear or axle shaft failure on any of these trucks. I can fully appreciate a project, it’s just that a PW would give you a much bigger head start. Trust me, no shortage of projects available for heavy duties.

My truck is paid for, and I can’t afford a power wagon. Otherwise I would buy one. And I beg to differ on ring gear size. I installed a Detroit locker, chromoly axle shafts, and 5:13 gears in my 4 door Jeep Wrangler. When you upsize to bigger gears, you lose contact area on the ring gear. I tore the teeth off of (3) sets of ring gears.
I only plan on running 4:56 gears in my axles.

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Aren’t the pre-14’ HD’s a parallel 4 link?or 5 link if you count the track bar?

I seem to remember my ‘10 and ‘12 CTD’s had 4 controls arms and a track bar.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Aren’t the pre-14’ HD’s a parallel 4 link?or 5 link if you count the track bar?

I seem to remember my ‘10 and ‘12 CTD’s had 4 controls arms and a track bar.

I forget what year 2500’s had coils front and rear.

 

[IRSmart]

I forget what year 2500’s had coils front and rear.

14 to current

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Well I spoke to Barnes 4x4, LRD, and ballistic fabrication this morning. All said to weld lower and upper mounts on paralell, and not offset. Should make for an easy swap. Might try ballistic chromoly forged joints instead of the sealed SPC joints.
Ballistic fabrication actually gives a warranty on their joints, unlike Johhny joints.