Does A New 6.4 Have Special break in Oil?

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Travelin Ram

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I'm at about 250 miles now and driving like an old lady per the manual.
Emphasis added:
“A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.

Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.

The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades "⇨ENGINE FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS".”
 

ramsare4real

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I think the 1500's show a 10,000 mile OCI.
Yep! My bad. Not that it makes much of a difference; I'll keep doing 10K.
The tick (other than the one in some owners' heads) is due to poor metallurgic, not to lack of magic oil choice.
 
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Tulecreeper

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Here you go.

“For Gasoline Engines, under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 8,000 miles (13,000 km), 12 months or 350 hours of engine run time, whichever comes first. The 350 hours of engine run or idle time is generally only a concern for fleet customers.”

Source: 2022 owner’s manual.
My 2023 says the same thing. I just went over 2100 miles, which means I'm putting an average of 350 miles per month on it (I live rural and don't do a lot of driving). If I go 4000 miles for my first oil change, I have until at least the end of February.
 

Tulecreeper

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Emphasis added:
“A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.

Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.

The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades "⇨ENGINE FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS".”
And mine says 0W-40...period. Not even a suggestion of another weight or grade.
 

mtnrider

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Fake news, and salesman are clueless.

.
 

ramffml

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Yep! My bad. Not that it makes much of a difference; I'll keep doing 10K.
The tick (other than the one in some owners' heads) is due to poor metallurgic, not to lack of magic oil choice.

There are multiple credible theories. But Ram has taken steps to fix this by making the needle bearings bigger but using less of them. Possibly dirty oil can contribute to lifter failure by taking out the needle bearings.

You probably don't want to run long oil changes on the hemis, it's just not worth the risk.

Also "magic oil" is the wrong mindset, there is cheap oil and high quality oil, and yes the high quality oil is loaded with AW additives and performs way better at cleaning than the oil you find off the shelf at walmart.

There is also no need for insults.
 

Riccochet

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No such thing as "break in oil" in modern vehicle engines. They put in the same PUP 0W40 that the dealer will use for an oil change.

These engines break in slowly over 20-30k miles. Get the oil changed every 5-7k and don't worry about it.
 

Overlander

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FWIW, I did my first oil change at 1,000 miles. My reasoning was to remove any 'fines' from the manufacturing process. True, this should be captured by the filter and the magnet. I just felt better about getting the original fluid replaced early.

As far as break-in, you also want to run her hard after your initial break in period to seat the rings. CNC manufacturing has greatly reduced the tolerance of engine components but I still believe that high pressures from WOT climbs are what truly gets them to seat into the liners.
 

ramsare4real

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Possibly dirty oil can contribute to lifter failure by taking out the needle bearings.
That's a theory I happen to agree with. Plenty of "forensic analyses" out there point to the needle bearings going first.

high quality oil is loaded with AW additives and performs way better at cleaning than the oil you find off the shelf at Walmart.
There aren't many boutique oils out there - HPL? - "better" than M1 0W-40, readily available at Walmart and cheap for what it is. Also, many more A40, MB 229.52, 504/507, etc., all with plenty of AW, dispersants and more important - tougher approvals to meet than the lousy ILSAC/MS-6395 are the W shelves. I don't have any problems running 10K with any of those. And you wouldn't either. My previous post was aimed at the mentality of band-aid oil against poor metalurgic.
 

ramffml

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That's a theory I happen to agree with. Plenty of "forensic analyses" out there point to the needle bearings going first.


There aren't many boutique oils out there - HPL? - "better" than M1 0W-40, readily available at Walmart and cheap for what it is. Also, many more A40, MB 229.52, 504/507, etc., all with plenty of AW, dispersants and more important - tougher approvals to meet than the lousy ILSAC/MS-6395 are the W shelves. I don't have any problems running 10K with any of those. And you wouldn't either. My previous post was aimed at the mentality of band-aid oil against poor metalurgic.

Actually I do have a problem running 10k intervals, I wouldn't do that with the hemi (and other engines like the pentastar 3.6 or the Ford 7.3) on any oil. Currently running HPL at about 6k to 7k intervals (I change in the spring and autumn which works nicely to fit those intervals). Also nothing wrong with trying to stave off lifter failure with different oil. If I can run two oils, one makes my truck tick and the other doesn't, why would one choose the ticky oil? Thankfully my truck never ticked but it does sound less clattery on different oils (and heavier weights).
 
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