Startup clatter a week after first oil change...

[Badlilhemi]

Maybe overkill but I dont like running break in oil all that long.. Changed it at about 1500 miles or a little over. Went with PUP 0w-20 and a WiX XP filter. Noticed not long after I got clatter on cold starts and the engine just seems louder. Oil pressure is fine. Clatter is only on cold starts and not every time. Goes away after a few seconds. My buddies 2022 is much quieter than mine. Tempted to do the Redline 5w-30 and Royal Purple 20-820 filter. My worry is warranty since the truck is new. I have a Royal purple filter or Mopar SRT filter already lined up for next change.. Just not sure on oil or why I got clatter after changing from the original oil. I spoke with Redline who told me warranty could be an issue running their oil even if correct viscosity as it doesn't meet the stamped cert the manual calls for.

 

[mrack]

Why would you use 0w-20?? Manual calls for 5w-20 so you've already voided your warranty

 

[Curmudgeon]

@Badlilhemi some things for your consideration...
My 2014 5.7L has 106,000 miles, oil just changed on 12/19/2023.
I'm using PUP 5W-20 and Royal Purple 20-820 filter. I live in SE Pennsylvania and we have had temps as low as +11F in the past week or more. No noise, no clatter.

If you do an oil change now to see if the "clatter" goes away, with the cold temps you guys have been seeing in Texas I might aim for the 5W-20 instead of 5W-30.
Either way I would want to do a used oil analysis through Blackstone to see what it shows about the PUP 0W-20 you are removing.

It just doesn't seem right that a change from 0W to 5W would that much of a difference, but who knows. I'm only about 250 miles since that last oil/filter change.

 

[Badlilhemi]

Why would you use 0w-20?? Manual calls for 5w-20 so you've already voided your warranty

No Sir.. the manual and oil cap call for 0W20..... This changed in 2023.... I did not void any warranty...

 

[Badlilhemi]

Found this in the manual...... "
Hemi engines (5.7L) at times can tick right after startup
and then quiet down after approximately 30 seconds. This
is normal and will not harm the engine. This characteristic
can be caused by short drive cycles." LOL wow.... also This..Engine Oil – 3.6L & 5.7L Engine....
We recommend using Mopar® SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the
requirements of the manufacturer Material Standard MS-6395. Equivalent full synthetic
SAE 0W-20 engine oil can be used but must have the API Starburst trademark

 

[Tulecreeper]

Why would you use 0w-20?? Manual calls for 5w-20 so you've already voided your warranty

That's an urban legend. Unless you get so far out of spec that you're using like 85W-90 gear oil, you are not going to void your warranty as long as you are doing regular maintenance.

 

[Badlilhemi]

That's an urban legend. Unless you get so far out of spec that you're using like 85W-90 gear oil, you are not going to void your warranty as long as you are doing regular maintenance.

Either way he is wrong on what it calls for. Are you saying running 5w-30 will not void my warranty? That is not what I am hearing from Redline and others. Personally I don't think they could prove the 5w30 did any damage. They keep dropping viscosity to keep up with EPA standards per the "oil groups".

 

[Badlilhemi]

@Badlilhemi some things for your consideration...
My 2014 5.7L has 106,000 miles, oil just changed on 12/19/2023.
I'm using PUP 5W-20 and Royal Purple 20-820 filter. I live in SE Pennsylvania and we have had temps as low as +11F in the past week or more. No noise, no clatter.

If you do an oil change now to see if the "clatter" goes away, with the cold temps you guys have been seeing in Texas I might aim for the 5W-20 instead of 5W-30.
Either way I would want to do a used oil analysis through Blackstone to see what it shows about the PUP 0W-20 you are removing.

It just doesn't seem right that a change from 0W to 5W would that much of a difference, but who knows. I'm only about 250 miles since that last oil/filter change.

I was thinking the same but for some reason people swear by 5w30. And yes.. these temps here are not the norm lol. I still have enough oil for one more 0w20 change. I may run that with the RP filter and see how it goes. I am also thinking about a Blackstone test. I have the kit already.

 

[Curmudgeon]

I was thinking the same but for some reason people swear by 5w30. And yes.. these temps here are not the norm lol. I still have enough oil for one more 0w20 change. I may run that with the RP filter and see how it goes. I am also thinking about a Blackstone test. I have the kit already.

I have no experience with 5W-30 in this engine. I bought it in July 2017, still under Mopar warranty, with 22,000 miles on it. It has has 5W-20 full synthetic ever since (and probably before as it was regularly serviced by the previous owner at the very dealer I bought it from.
Never a tick or clatter. My dealer did almost all oil changes until just recently, so, 5w-20 Pennzoil synthetic and a Mopar filter, until now.

 

[mrack]

Interesting, had no idea. Apologies for jumping to a conclusion there. Going down even further to 0w-20 is absurd on Rams part though, they'll be using water in place of oil next

 

[Badlilhemi]

Interesting, had no idea. Apologies for jumping to a conclusion there. Going down even further to 0w-20 is absurd on Rams part though, they'll be using water in place of oil next

All good! I thought it was crazy my self. The oil is crazy thin. I was thinking of going to at least a 5w20 but seems everyone is all about the 5w30 for best protection. I have read that with Lube Guard and the RP filter is the best setup. Saw this in a a huge oil thread.

 

[Wild one]

All good! I thought it was crazy my self. The oil is crazy thin. I was thinking of going to at least a 5w20 but seems everyone is all about the 5w30 for best protection. I have read that with Lube Guard and the RP filter is the best setup. Saw this in a a huge oil thread.

Before they started going after milege numbers,and the gubbermint nannies were breathing down their necks,you could run 5W-30 in the 5.7. Read the note at the bottom,this used to be in the big printed manual up till about 2017,the engines haven't changed since then,just the milege numbers have.All they say about 5W-20 is it improves milege and cold weather starting,nowhere do they say anything about it adding longevity to the engine,and you can be dammed sure if they thought 5W-20 added to the life expectancy of the engine,they'd be mentioning it.

 

[Octane]

All good! I thought it was crazy my self. The oil is crazy thin. I was thinking of going to at least a 5w20 but seems everyone is all about the 5w30 for best protection. I have read that with Lube Guard and the RP filter is the best setup. Saw this in a a huge oil thread.

I use Havoline pro ds 5w30 with Lubegard.Mileage is 222k.Engine was quiet for the first 175k or so.Now on cold startup I get right bank clatter most times for about 20 seconds.Warmer days barely noticeable but still there.I cut filter open,looks good.I'm gonna do a oil analysis soon to be sure.I've ran 5w30 after first 111k.Dont know what previous owner used.But I do know it was mostly open highway miles

 

[CanuckRam1313]

IMHO, the 0 or 5 W20 oils are water and are just there to appease the manufactures numbers with EPA, etc.

While ones climate plays a part in what oil one should use overall in that the starting oil weight is the consideration (0 vs 5) - one can be assured that with our current data base herein it is a sure bet that a high efficiency oil filter with synthetic media (Fram XG2 or RP 20-820) and a top grade oil, PUP 5W30 with a bottle of BioTech Lubegard, or RL HP 5W30 / HPL SC 0W30 is going to net a HEMI owner the best opportunity to have a long and useful life with their HEMI.

That's not to say that there are those here in our community that have run the basic factory recommended OCI's with the basic factory recommended base oil and filters and are still tick free and running after say 150K to 200K miles, but for the known elephant in the closet that is our inherent know issue that our HEMI's eat lifters and/or their cam, it's cheap insurance, if one can manage it, to opt for a known helper that affords longevity in the ownership experience. This being a premium synthetic media oil filter and a premium oil in the right viscosity.

All this is just my opinion though.

 

[Badlilhemi]

IMHO, the 0 or 5 W20 oils are water and are just there to appease the manufactures numbers with EPA, etc.

While ones climate plays a part in what oil one should use overall in that the starting oil weight is the consideration (0 vs 5) - one can be assured that with our current data base herein it is a sure bet that a high efficiency oil filter with synthetic media (Fram XG2 or RP 20-820) and a top grade oil, PUP 5W30 with a bottle of BioTech Lubegard, or RL HP 5W30 / HPL SC 0W30 is going to net a HEMI owner the best opportunity to have a long and useful life with their HEMI.

That's not to say that there are those here in our community that have run the basic factory recommended OCI's with the basic factory recommended base oil and filters and are still tick free and running after say 150K to 200K miles, but for the known elephant in the closet that is our inherent know issue that our HEMI's eat lifters and/or their cam, it's cheap insurance, if one can manage it, to opt for a known helper that affords longevity in the ownership experience. This being a premium synthetic media oil filter and a premium oil in the right viscosity.

All this is just my opinion though.

Yeah, I agree. Last thing I want to do is jack with warranty but I also want this thing to go 200K miles. Going to add some lube gard to the current oil change just to see if anything changes. I will step up to the 5w20 after that or 5w30.. I always use PUP in all my cars/trucks. I found it crazy the owners manual says the motor will tick up to 30 seconds on startup. I can't see that being good for longevity.

 

[Badlilhemi]

Anyone know what OZ size of Lube Gard should be used? I see its in 3 sizes.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

15oz lubeGard and royal purple 20-820.

 

[RamDiver]

Yeah, I agree. Last thing I want to do is jack with warranty but I also want this thing to go 200K miles. Going to add some lube gard to the current oil change just to see if anything changes. I will step up to the 5w20 after that or 5w30.. I always use PUP in all my cars/trucks. I found it crazy the owners manual says the motor will tick up to 30 seconds on startup. I can't see that being good for longevity.

I'm not trying to be pessimistic but, if I had a surprise noise immediately after an oil change, I'd change the oil and filter immediately.

Maybe the filter is defective, maybe some foreign particles got into the oil somehow.

What's an oil change cost compared to an engine? Some will say, ah, who cares because it will likely be covered by warranty.

Maybe, it would be warranty or maybe not.

Regardless of the odds or the potential for warranty coverage, I just wouldn't want the headache.

My truck is at about 22,000 miles and has only made one noise at startup on one occasion. I had about a 2 second sound of a "bag of marbles" in a tin cup.

My last oil change was in November and included a 15oz jug of LubeGard. The engine has been smooth and quiet as a mouse ever since, even during cold starts.

Good luck with your mystery noise.

.

 

[Octane]

Except for filtering media of synthetic or paper.A filter is a filter,I believe.I've had noisy engines before,and a filter never was the culprit.Crappy mass produced engines are the culprit.I just do reg oci and run'em till they won't gr get rid of the sorry engineered pos's.But that's just me! Lol

 

[caulk04]

You've kicked a really big hornets nest here buddy. Anything oil and filter related is a top three dumpster fire in ANY discussion group.

If you think back to the last startup BEFORE your engine ticked/tapped, was it running for only a moment to, say, move from the driveway to the garage? My Hemi NEVER taps at startup unless doing just that short run situation but if I run the RPM up to ~2K for maybe 10 seconds it's enough to fill the lifters and not have that issue.

Unless you find it interesting, don't get sucked into the oil hole here. Change your oil with something decent at a reasonable interval (not 10k like the 'oil life monitor') and don't excessively idle.