Dumb newb lift question

[dk_ace]

So I’ve always wanted a lifted truck, and I’m no longer using my 2015 Laramie as a daily driver so I think it’s time for a lift.

Reading around here, I’m convinced I want a suspension lift with no spacers.

Now the dumb question, how do you get 6 inches of lift in the front without a spacer? The bilsteins go to 2.8”. Most of the recommended lift kits around here have rear coil springs, but only spacers for the front.

I haven’t seen a single kit that has anything that would get the front end 6” higher without a strut spacer.

I’m guessing I must be misunderstanding something about how the lifts work? Or maybe there are “right” ways to do it and none of the kits I’m looking at are the right thing?

D

 

[rzr6-4]

You'll need new upper and lower control arms, struts, and that will all revolve around lowering your front differential as well. Doing the leveling kit set to two or 2 1/2 inch or whatever, these can get by without touching the differential. For your 6 inch lift, the front differential will have to be lowered to keep your CV angles correct. Along with all of those previously mentioned parts.

A kit should come with all of the parts needed for the diff drop as well as the control arms and what not.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Just buy a good kit like BDS / Superlift / ZONE ect

 

[olyelr]

Yea, there are plenty of good 6” suspension kits out there.

 

[olyelr]

6 Inch Lift Kit | FOX 2.5 Performance Elite Coil-Over | Ram 1500 (13-18) & Ram 1500 Classic (19-24) 4WD

Boost your RAM 1500 with a BDS 6″ lift kit and FOX 2.5 Performance Elite coil-overs, delivering superior ride quality, durability, and room for up to 37″ tires.

bds-suspension.com

 

[kurek]

Reading around here, I’m convinced I want a suspension lift with no spacers.

Now the dumb question, how do you get 6 inches of lift in the front without a spacer? The bilsteins go to 2.8”. Most of the recommended lift kits around here have rear coil springs, but only spacers for the front.

I haven’t seen a single kit that has anything that would get the front end 6” higher without a strut spacer.

I’m guessing I must be misunderstanding something about how the lifts work? Or maybe there are “right” ways to do it and none of the kits I’m looking at are the right thing?

D

The problem with a spacer lift is you're moving the absolute range of motion for the wheels "down" (relative to the frame) without a corresponding move of the axle center section. That's asking too much of the CV joints and they'll fail.

If you did a 2" spacer lift and also moved the differential down 2" that would be fine.

So a taller lift moves the lower control arms, differential housing and struts down and includes taller knuckles to meet the upper arms where they are.

 

[dk_ace]

The problem with a spacer lift is you're moving the absolute range of motion for the wheels "down" (relative to the frame) without a corresponding move of the axle center section. That's asking too much of the CV joints and they'll fail.

If you did a 2" spacer lift and also moved the differential down 2" that would be fine.

So a taller lift moves the lower control arms, differential housing and struts down and includes taller knuckles to meet the upper arms where they are.

I understand why things need to move down and why spacers are bad. That wasn’t my question.

My question was how do you get 6” of lift in the front without using a spacer? The most recommended kits on this forum use spacers in the front, and bilsteins can only get 2.8” of lift.

What is the way to get 6” of lift on the front without a spacer? That’s what I want to do.

D

 

[DILLIGAF]

You do realize thats a spacer to make up for the new spindle height of the lift kits.

Or your can get longer FOX shocks and not have that spacer.

Wait until you find out all those lift kit I listed are still bare bones. You'll need to drop money on new CORE 4x4 UCAs, Clayton off-road or Core 4x4 Panhard and 4 link. Just to have a complete proper set up.

 

[olyelr]

I understand why things need to move down and why spacers are bad. That wasn’t my question.

My question was how do you get 6” of lift in the front without using a spacer? The most recommended kits on this forum use spacers in the front, and bilsteins can only get 2.8” of lift.

What is the way to get 6” of lift on the front without a spacer? That’s what I want to do.

D

Fox sells a full 6” strut. But get out your wallet.

 

[kurek]

I understand why things need to move down and why spacers are bad. That wasn’t my question.

My question was how do you get 6” of lift in the front without using a spacer?

D

You use a spacer... I thought that was clear.

 

[dk_ace]

You do realize thats a spacer to make up for the new spindle height of the lift kits.

Or your can get longer FOX shocks and not have that spacer.

No I don’t realize that. Like I said, this is a dumb newb question….

I googled spindle height and looked closer at the zone 6” kit (it gets recommended here a lot so I figure that is a good common reference point). Now I see that front crossmember piece appears to be lifting things, and that’s part of what I was missing before. It doesn’t look 6” tall to me though, so I think the strut spacer is also part of the lift unless my eyes are deceiving me.

I’m still trying to figure this out, but I think I’m starting to get closer.

I want to do this the right way, which for me means: last a long time, ride well, do the things I need it to do, and get the look I want. I don’t know what “offroading” means on the internet. I need to cross some rough, uneven, steep ditches and creeks and traverse some nightmarish old hunting roads in addition to general pasture duties. I don’t care if I have to crawl through the tough stuff as long as I make it and don’t tear my truck up. I’m trying to understand what it costs to do it right and make sure I understand what doing it right really means at the hardware level.

D

 

[dk_ace]

You use a spacer... I thought that was clear.

The internet says “spacers are bad” so I’m trying to understand how to do it without a spacer.

D

 

[olyelr]

The spacer on most 4-6” kits is what actually lifts the truck. The drop brackets and stuff just keep the geometry in check.

But like i said…you can get a 6” coilover from fox.

 

[kurek]

The internet says “spacers are bad” so I’m trying to understand how to do it without a spacer.

D

I explained it to you, you said you understood it, now you said you don't understand it. Good luck.

 

[dk_ace]

I explained it to you, you said you understood it, now you said you don't understand it. Good luck.

I said I understand that when certain things move up other things have to move down.

What I wasn’t understanding is what moves the front end higher in the first place if you don’t use a spacer to do it. Now I see that the crossmember piece is what does that.

Here’s the next bit I’m trying to figure out: I know that preload spacers are not a good idea for the kinds of things I need to, but are the other spacers that don’t preload ok or are they going to harm the ride or the functionality of the lift?

I see that they allow you to use the stock shocks. But do they negatively impact the ride or performance or will it perform the same way as the stock shocks do uplifted?

D

 

[olyelr]

I said I understand that when certain things move up other things have to move down.

What I wasn’t understanding is what moves the front end higher in the first place if you don’t use a spacer to do it. Now I see that the crossmember piece is what does that.

Here’s the next bit I’m trying to figure out: I know that preload spacers are not a good idea for the kinds of things I need to, but are the other spacers that don’t preload ok or are they going to harm the ride or the functionality of the lift?

I see that they allow you to use the stock shocks. But do they negatively impact the ride or performance or will it perform the same way as the stock shocks do uplifted?

D

The crossmembers that lower the diff/a arms does not necessarily provide the lift, it just keeps the geometry in check. The spacer over the strut is what provides the actual lift.

The spacer with the oem struts is acceptable. I would have to assume a full length fox unit would be much better, however.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Would ride a bit better for sure. But you wouldn't get anymore travel due to the **** poor font end design. Heck I have limiting straps on mine so I dont blow out C/V

The Dirt King long travel setup also comes with limiting straps. and they use the OEM spindle.

I never bothered buying the Fox since they have an extremely bad rap up here in the north for failing in the cold weather. and my 6112s havent failed me yet. When they do I might look into a full length shock.

O.P lifted 1500s ride smoother that the garbage factory set-up. Especially when on 37s, with no sway bars, Jeep Gladiator 6.5" dual rate rear springs and airlift 5000 bags

 

[Jacob Maguire]

Perhaps you share similar thinking to myself, as I did before I dove in to this world. I too needed an explanation as provided by forum member @NickGotExhaust. Don't confuse "puck" style spacers with the bolt-on spacer included with kits like BDS/Zone. The bolt-on spacer is SOLID and what 95% of lifted trucks are running. The other 5% using full length loaded struts, but as previously stated, hope your wallet is ready.

If you keep the Bills at stock height, you will NOT require a UCA (not part of the Zone 6" kit). If running Bills at +2" get geometry correcting UCAs.

 

[dk_ace]

Perhaps you share similar thinking to myself, as I did before I dove in to this world. I too needed an explanation as provided by forum member @NickGotExhaust. Don't confuse "puck" style spacers with the bolt-on spacer included with kits like BDS/Zone. The bolt-on spacer is SOLID and what 95% of lifted trucks are running. The other 5% using full length loaded struts, but as previously stated, hope your wallet is ready.

If you keep the Bills at stock height, you will NOT require a UCA (not part of the Zone 6" kit). If running Bills at +2" get geometry correcting UCAs.

This is the thing I was missing - the top hat vs preload spacer part. It seems like some still insist that there are real downsides to the top hats, but they seem to be a minority. For what I’m doing, I don’t think I need the full coilover setup.

My truck is 2.25” tail high currently. I’m thinking my best options are:

- The zone or bds 6” kit with the 3” rear coil and not installing the preload spacer (assuming this nets me a .25” rake at current loading).

- The zone or Bds 6” kit with 5” coils, no preload spacer, new UCA, and a front shock that can get me level.

The question then becomes - is it worth the extra cost and hassle to get the extra 2”? My suspicion is that it isn’t for what I want to do and the tires I plan to run (315/60/20).

D

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

We have MANY Zone lift customers and their kits not only last but ride great. The spacer that is provided with the Zone kit will not have the same issues as leveling puck spacers. Don't over think it and go down the google lift rabbit hole lol. We can get you set up with a quality lift that will ride as good as stock or better. If you are dead set against the spacer for some reason then we can offer full length coil overs that wont need you to run the spacer or preload spacer but they are more than the lift cost.

If interested in a quote and info send me a message. Please include how you intend to use the truck, like towing, off roading, if you off road what terrains and speeds. That will help me put together the best package to fit your needs.