Flickering premium cluster. Replace with standard 3.5" cluster?

[Ken226]

I thought I had this problem fixed a dozen times in the past 2 years, but it always returns.

I've reseated the fuses, tightened every ground cable, cleaned every cable connectors, used dielectric grease on every connection. The problem is intermittent, and the problem persists, no matter what.

Every time I do something, it stops for awhile. Fooling me into thinking I've fixed it. It always comes back. Worse in winter than when it's warm, and only when the headlights are off and the backlight is at it's full daytime brightness. If the headlights are on, the backlight dims a bit and no flickering.


I suspect a bad capacitor or similar electronic component inside the cluster itself. I've been reading through a few thousand posts on the subject, across various forums. This issue seems to be common across damn near everything Chrysler makes.

I've seen posts with this problem on Chargers, 300s, Challengers, Rebels, 1500s, 2500s, gas, diesel, etc. All they seem to have in common is the premium evic cluster.

I'm considering replacing the fancy premium cluster with the lower end 3.5" cluster, which are cheap and plentiful on ebay. At least temporarily, perhaps permanently. Then ill pull my cluster apart and start checking diodes, capacitors and any part involved with the change in brightness when the headlights are switched on.

I suspect some small voltage transformer or switched resistor.


Is the 3.5" cluster a direct plug n play swap?

 

[rixter99]

Yes...I 'upgraded' w/no problems...Simple plug/play...You will lose features w/the down grade...

 

[Ken226]

Yes...I 'upgraded' w/no problems...Simple plug/play...You will lose features w/the down grade...

Did you do the same? Swap in the non-fluff cluster?

If you don't mind me asking, was it due to the flickering, or a different problem?

 

[rixter99]

Did you do the same? Swap in the non-fluff cluster?

If you don't mind me asking, was it due to the flickering, or a different problem?

No, I went from the 'non-fluff' to the 'fluff'...I upgraded to get more features, i.e. gauges, etc...Straight plug/play...Only changes made via AlfaOBD were for mileage, idle hours, and total hours...

 

[Ken226]

No, I went from the 'non-fluff' to the 'fluff'...I upgraded to get more features, i.e. gauges, etc...Straight plug/play...Only changes made via AlfaOBD were for mileage, idle hours, and total hours...

I would like to keep the premium cluster as well, I'd hate to lose the additional info available on it, but that flicker drives me nut.


I think I'll try to repair my existing cluster before ordering anything. This guy's video gives me an idea where to start.


The transistors controlling the backlight diodes look to have two channels in the ribbon controlling the 10 diodes.

I'll have to disassemble it and power it up connected to the truck, to see which transistor control which diodes.

Likely, one transistor is controlling the variable brightness diodes, on when the headlights are activated (which never flicker). The other transistor probably switches on some additional backlighting when the headlights are turned off, upping the brightness of the evic. It likes to flicker when headlights are off and the additional backlighting is on.

If nothin else, and I can't fix the flickering backlight, maybe I can snip circuit powering the additional backlighting. It's plenty bright enough, even with the headlights on, to see during boad daylight.

 

[Ken226]

Nope. No luck with that. Both transistor output circuits appear to be connected in parallel with the LEDs, with each transistor having several functions.

The voltage fluctuations causing the flickering is coming out of both transistors.

Once I had the screen apart, and the LED strip connected to the truck without the screen connected, I could clearly see that the LEDs were flickering at all brightness settings, and with the headlights both on and off. It just wasn't noticable at the lower settings.

The only way to fix this would probably be to remove both transistors, and replace them. But, the soldered connections to the board are tiny, so it's beyond my skill level to do.

I guess I'll be doing it the easy way. I ordered a new premium cluster from Maparpartsgiant.com for 600$,