A neighbor stopped by and suggested pulling a battery terminal for a while to clear out any 'learned' bad habits, (DOH! Why didn't I think of that?!?) so I did that. I started it and let it warm up, and the idle was smooth as could be. After 5 to 8 minutes mainly idling with a few revs to 2k now and then, It ran like a new truck! I looked at the fuel trims and they looked normal. Just slightly pulling to rich on the short term ( 5% or less ) and pretty much 0% on long term trim. I took it out and put a couple of 10 mile trips on it and it ran great until the last 4 or 5 miles. Then it started doing the same thing as before.
I can't say for sure at what exact mile or how many minutes passed when it started acting up, but it ran great for such and such a period of time and slowly I started noticing a slight miss which steadily started getting worse until just before getting home it barely topped the last small hill without having to really nail the gas. Just over about 2500 rpm it cleared out and I noticed a HUGE sudden jump in power...like when you hit the power band on a 2 stroke dirt bike. Got it home and hooked up the OBDII again and sure enough. O2 sensor 1 was not responding and was staying low and the fuel trims were like before, short term pulling full lean and long term pulling full rich.
So now it seems that something in the system is going whacky over time or prolonged heat?
I HATE throwing parts at a problem, but I am stumped. I am going to go ahead and replace the upstream O2 sensor today and see what changes, but I am growing more suspicious about the ECM. Any thoughts?
Thank you for your help.
STFT and LTFT work together. When you are looking at the adaptive memory in the PCM the STFT can adjust between -33 and +33. The LTFT can adjust the same amount between -33 and +33.
The STFT is the fuel control for what is happening right now. The LTFT is for precise corrections when everything is working properly. If you are experiencing a lean condition from the upstream oxygen sensor your STFT will start adding fuel and it will show as a positive number like +20. The purpose of the LTFT is to correct the +20 so it will show -20 to attempt to get it as close to zero as possible. It works both ways too. If the STFT is negative the LTFT will be positive.
When an upstream oxygen sensor has a problem your fuel trims can look crazy. If your upstream oxygen sensor is not switching lean/rich, low/high then your fuel control will be off. When oxygen sensors age they lose their ability to switch. Once the oxygen sensor stops switching is may get stuck on the lean side, or low voltage, and the PCM will attempt to correct for it.
Before you condemn the PCM you should verify that the PCM can do its job. You can do this with a DVOM. First, disconnect the upstream oxygen sensor and measure the voltages in the body side connector. One pin should have 5.0V and it should show the same thing in your scan tool. Another pin should have B+ battery voltage and that is for the oxygen sensor heater.
Grab the wiring diagram from the Factory Service Manual I'm the 2nd Gen DIY forum and then check for continuity between the oxygen sensor connector to the PCM connector. If you find that to be good then replace the upstream oxygen sensor and retest.