Installing new headers this weekend. Got a couple questions/concerns

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msorbara10

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Hey all. So I pulled the trigger on flow tech short tube headers and got them in the mail. I got the grade 8 locking bolts from summit racing (I think it came with 17)
Bought a jack and some stands and started spraying the bolts that I could get to with PB blaster.

Anyway I plan on lifting the front and and take the tires off and the inner wheel well. As I mentioned in posts before my manifolds are really rusty and I am sure they will be giving me trouble. So in case a couple brake while I am removing the manifolds, I would like to know what I should do.

I know I would have to drill them out and I have seen that a left handed bit works well and then use an "easy out" to get them out. What size of each do I get? Home depot will carry what I need hopefully right?

Also I know if one brakes off I will have to use vice grips and spray it and possibly heat it until it comes out (assuming some of the bolt is sticking out of the head)

This lead me to a question I am sure sounds stupid, but ill ask anyway. With the manifold still on, would it be a good idea to take a dremal and cut off the top of every bolt and then slide the manifold off, That way you have all the studs sticking out and you can spray it more easy and just use the vice grips to work them loose?
Just a though I had not sure if I will be bashed for it or not but I figure it could be a little easier.

If you have any other tips please let me know. I am very excited for this project but a little nervous as well

-Thanks
 

BAILEY1

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Do not cut the head of the bolts off!!! You are just asking for a headache if you do that. Just remove the bolts like you normally would and if one breaks off, worry about it after the manifold is removed.

If I can give you any advice....... find a buddy that has a portable wire welder; so when you break a bolt, you can weld a nut on the top of it and use a socket to remove it.
 

truckin151

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just take it slow, one bolt at a time. you do not have a lot of room to work with so I would avoid any cutting/tapping/drilling if at all possible.
 

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I would say just spray them as much as you can. Right before you take the bolts out, start the truck and get the headers good and hot. Slowly break the bolts loose. DON'T WRECK YOUR TRUCK if it's on stands.

This is how I would do it. But I would like to hear about the correct way because this is on my list to do.
 

truckin151

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could also soak it down real good the night before and take it for a hard drive before you start your work. when I did mine I sprayed the bolts real good the night before, drove it to and from work ( about 40 miles) then started ably a half hour after I got home. needed a breaker bar to pop some of them loose but nothing stripped.

avoid starting it on Jack stands if at all possible. had a buddies truck fall off one because he started it and revved the engine, shook it just enough that it slid off, bent a rotor. if you do, quadruple check everything is centered and secured good.
 

ATXHEMI

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I sprayed mine about 30 min before I started and again about 15 min before. Maybe I got lucky but they all came out pretty easy. I was pleasantly surprised. And I used wd-40.
 

03MopaRamman

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You must remove the Bolts when the engine is BONE Cold gives you your best chance. The fact the heads are aluminum and the OEM bolts are fairly long gives you the best chance. Your Enemy in all this is the rust and how it has affected the head and shaft of the bolt where the manifold hole meets it. Taking out the inner fenders is perfect, thats how I did mine (FlowTech Cat FWD BTW). Like Ryan said take it one at a time and it doesn't take much torque to crack them loose. If you Bull on them they will break. Now if you really think they will break off you could alternately use a small Acetelyne/Oxygen Torch by benzine and heat the head of each one just before attempting to loosen them and guarantee you will be able to achieve your goal ($30 for Torch and comes with first round of Gas but the 02 only lasts about 8 min so work fast). I have done plenty of manifold removals in my wrenching experience even when I lived in salt country East like youreslf and knock on wood have never broken One.

Now you will probably break off the heat shield nuts but that is not a problem cause once the heat shields are off you expose the other part of the bolt head same as the ones without the extented extra heat shield nut.

If you break off a head don't worry as when the manifold is out of there you will have a good half inch of bolt thread to work with (Manifolds are pretty thick) and with 10 Inch vise grips they will turn out easy and with the inner fenders out you have lots of room, like I said before the nut will not be rusted all the way down and into where it threads into the aluminum head. Once snapped loose these bolts turn by hand.

On a Dodge LX Car you have to do it from underneath the Car at arms length and when I did my 05 I only used 1/4 inch ratchet and stubby wrenches and although PIA every bolt came out like Butter.

Danny
 
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KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Yep all good advise here. Deff take it easy and dont get worried if one or two break. Make sure you have good gaskets coming also with the headers or get some OEM's on order.
 
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msorbara10

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Thanks guys I will be sure to do everything you said. I got gaskets that came with the headers. No good? Im sure it wouldnt be good to use the gaskets that are already on there. Would they have gaskets at pep boys? thats the only auto parts store close to me
 

truckin151

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best bet is the one gaskets, the ones that come with the headers are usually paper thin, some have been known to blow out which means you have to take it apart and do it over again to fix the leak. the dealership had then for $28 for the pair when I did mine.
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Post a pic of the gaskets they sent. Im willing to bet they are the crappy ones, we always use OEM gaskets for headers at the shop.
 

03MopaRamman

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Definately worth it and with proper fasteners do not leak. I installed the Flo-tech ones and soon after was getting codes because of leakage and after 2 years of that took them off and changed them to OEM with 6.1 Thread locker treated bolts, problem solved. I did BBK's on my other Hemi (LX) last July and although the BBK gaskets looked OK I didn't take any chances and did same.....Zero issues on that set-up either. Have Fun! Good weekend for Modding for Sure!
 
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msorbara10

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Post a pic of the gaskets they sent. Im willing to bet they are the crappy ones, we always use OEM gaskets for headers at the shop.

These are as clear as I could get them. They really dont seem too thin, then again I am not sure what a good gasket looks like. I need to get these done this weekend because I have to drive up to upstate NY next weekend (6hrs) and my mom will not be able to handle my manifolds making noise haha.

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msorbara10

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best bet is the one gaskets, the ones that come with the headers are usually paper thin, some have been known to blow out which means you have to take it apart and do it over again to fix the leak. the dealership had then for $28 for the pair when I did mine.

I will check the dealer tomorrow to see if they have any oem ones. If not you think napa will have them? Worst comes to worst I will replace them if need be but I need to get this done this weekend
 
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msorbara10

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Definately worth it and with proper fasteners do not leak. I installed the Flo-tech ones and soon after was getting codes because of leakage and after 2 years of that took them off and changed them to OEM with 6.1 Thread locker treated bolts, problem solved. I did BBK's on my other Hemi (LX) last July and although the BBK gaskets looked OK I didn't take any chances and did same.....Zero issues on that set-up either. Have Fun! Good weekend for Modding for Sure!

How do you like the flowtech headers? how long did it take for the gaskets to go? and yea I feel a lot better with the bolts I got

Also did you use the 2 pipes that they gave you in the kit? I am not sure weather to have them installed as well aslo
 
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msorbara10

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I just sprayed them again actually. Just wondering how to handle the bolts where the heat shield sat. My heat shields fell off and just wondering if I need to replace thoes bolts at all? Or is it just a bolt that sticks out to mount the heat shield on?
 
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