Marvel Mystery Oil in HEMI

[jmd4100]

Thinking about using MMO in my 2007 1500 5.7 with 135k miles. Anyone try this before? Do you put it in while filling oil after an oil change, 500 miles before or 5 minutes before? Never used the stuff before. My dad swears by it in older cars, but with VVT and especially MDS I’m not sure if that would interfere with the workings of it


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[kurek]

I've used MMO in engines I suspected of having contaminant problems due to age, long term neglect by previous owners, etc - in general I feel it's a fairly safe and effective solvent cleaner for the oil. Difficult to guess at how its viscosity would affect MDS, it's a very light oil so a substituted quart might make your 5w20 behave more like an imaginary "5w17" .

As for when to add it, you can just substitute a quart of your regular oil at an oil change and then run it the whole duration of that interval. Your truck really shouldn't be consuming oil with only 135k miles on it so if you filled it to the top of the hash lines on the dipstick when you did a previous change you probably don't have room for a whole extra quart to add mid-interval.

But I also look at it like taking Tylenol when you already feel good - not really going to help anything is it? If you don't suspect a problem that can be addressed by the MMO then you're just sort of doing a little dance for nothing. If your truck's been taken decent care of there should be no work for the MMO to do at just 135k miles.

 

[jmd4100]

I've used MMO in engines I suspected of having contaminant problems due to age, long term neglect by previous owners, etc - in general I feel it's a fairly safe and effective solvent cleaner for the oil. Difficult to guess at how its viscosity would affect MDS, it's a very light oil so a substituted quart might make your 5w20 behave more like an imaginary "5w17" .

As for when to add it, you can just substitute a quart of your regular oil at an oil change and then run it the whole duration of that interval. Your truck really shouldn't be consuming oil with only 135k miles on it so if you filled it to the top of the hash lines on the dipstick when you did a previous change you probably don't have room for a whole extra quart to add mid-interval.

But I also look at it like taking Tylenol when you already feel good - not really going to help anything is it? If you don't suspect a problem that can be addressed by the MMO then you're just sort of doing a little dance for nothing. If your truck's been taken decent care of there should be no work for the MMO to do at just 135k miles.

Well I bought the truck with 130k miles and then I changed the oil at 131,455 miles. It now has 135,104 miles. Its burned 2 quarts since then. So I could probably get away with it next time I'm a quart low right?

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[kurek]

I changed the oil at 131,455 miles. It now has 135,104 miles. Its burned 2 quarts since then

Wow I'd be trying to get to the bottom of that situation... any leaks or is it all definitely burned?

I know it's apples/oranges but my other truck (a Mitsubishi) as 307k miles and doesn't burn or leak a drop. My 2015 Ram doesn't burn or leak a drop either but it only has 30k miles. As a general rule I don't consider burning whole quarts (or more!) between oil change intervals a normal thing.

 

[kurek]

I changed the oil at 131,455 miles. It now has 135,104 miles. Its burned 2 quarts since then

Wow I'd be trying to get to the bottom of that situation... any leaks or is it all definitely burned?

I know it's apples/oranges but my other truck (a Mitsubishi) has 307k miles and doesn't burn or leak a drop. My 2015 Ram doesn't burn or leak a drop either but it only has 30k miles. As a general rule I don't consider burning whole quarts (or more!) between oil change intervals a normal thing.

 

[jmd4100]

Wow I'd be trying to get to the bottom of that situation... any leaks or is it all definitely burned?

I know it's apples/oranges but my other truck (a Mitsubishi) has 307k miles and doesn't burn or leak a drop. My 2015 Ram doesn't burn or leak a drop either but it only has 30k miles. As a general rule I don't consider burning whole quarts (or more!) between oil change intervals a normal thing.

I’m with you there! It’s not good, but I’m dealing with it. It doesn’t look like its leaking, but i would think that at that rate, i would see smoke out the tailpipe, at least at startup or hard acceleration. I’m not sure if its the PCV or what, but there’s no smell of oil ever and no smoke. That’s why i wanted to try MMO, ive heard it has stopped or at least slowed the oil burning in vehicles.

 

[Burla]

Ir wont hurt mds.. It's an oil thinner, not an oil thickner like lucas is. If you look at the sds ad the cSt, clearly it isn't something you want to use in an engine that is burning oil based on viscosity for treating that condition. Usually engines burn oil because of rings and maybe valves, you would want to use a thicker oil not thinner. Furthermore, if the argument is well I want to clean out sludge so I want the solvent to work, understand MMO is a very weak solvent. So I would change pcv and use a high mileage oil if it were me, use a 3k mile interval then the detergents are at their strongest, Pennzoil platinum high mileage oil is a good one, I use this oil 5w30. It wont hurt mds or vvt.

Below is MMO broken down, looks like very thin oil with a weak solvent.

Viscosity (Kinematic @ 100⁰C): 2.0 – 3.0 cSt

3.2 Mixture Component

Petroleum Distillates (Hydrotreated Heavy 64742-52-5 60-100%

Naphthenic) Petroleum Distillates (Stoddard Solvent) 8052-41-3 10-30%

Tricresyl Phosphate 1330-78-5 0.1-1.0%

Ortho Dichlorobenzene 95-50-1 0.1-1.0%

 

[Delta11]

I have wondered what adding MMO does to your 5w-20 as well. Should one use a 5w-30 or 5w-40 if adding a quart or 20% of MMO to regular oil due to the Viscosity change. I have a 2010 2500 with a 5.7 Hemi with 200k and no oil leaks and does not burn oil,(knock on wood). I started adding MMO a year ago to ,"Make my Engine last". I put a full quart in with the oil every 5k when i do an oil change. I just went to 5w-30 High Mileage Synthetic...I was using the 5w-20 High Mileage. Hoping for a million mile engine. I have asked Marvel directly how their oil affects viscosity and have gotten No answer yet. I changed oils to get the lifters quiet so far so good. Probably ******* in the wind adding the MMO but I will continue and see what happens. When I first bought the truck I changed my oil 4 times in a month and added MMO each time to clean the engine. The last oil change was still clean so I knew that I had done some good. I add the 4oz/per 10 gals of gas once in a while to help clean as well. We shall see how the engine holds up. I will continue the Experiment of adding the quart of MMO every 5k at oil change. I'll let yall know in 40 years if the engine still runs. 2010 with 200k.

 

[Travelin Ram]

What @Burla said. Check the proper operating condition of related components before you resort to snake oils. Is the PCV working properly, does it exhibit blow by if you open the oil fill when it’s idling, does it blow blue smoke on startup?

If there’s some reason to suspect sludge just change the oil prematurely a few times and let the detergents do their work safely and gradually, and any solids will slowly move to the filter or the sump.

Toss a quart of solvent in a badly sludged engine and you could get a massive dump of crap that puts the filter in bypass. Then if the crap plugs an oil passage it’s game over.

 

[seabrook]

we used to add it to our gas but that was pre cats

 

[Delta11]

I ran one whole quart of marvel mystery oil in my 2010 5.7 from 95k to 255k when I sold it. It never smoked or used oil or leaked oil. I did all oil changes myself. Used walmart oil 5/20 and the quart of marvel every 5k miles. I do not know if the thinner oil saved me from a lifter problem. Just throwing this out there. I wanted to buy a new Ram 2500 6.4 but they have not fixed the issue and I dont feel like rolling the dice.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I've used MMO in engines I suspected of having contaminant problems due to age, long term neglect by previous owners, etc - in general I feel it's a fairly safe and effective solvent cleaner for the oil. Difficult to guess at how its viscosity would affect MDS, it's a very light oil so a substituted quart might make your 5w20 behave more like an imaginary "5w17" .

As for when to add it, you can just substitute a quart of your regular oil at an oil change and then run it the whole duration of that interval. Your truck really shouldn't be consuming oil with only 135k miles on it so if you filled it to the top of the hash lines on the dipstick when you did a previous change you probably don't have room for a whole extra quart to add mid-interval.

But I also look at it like taking Tylenol when you already feel good - not really going to help anything is it? If you don't suspect a problem that can be addressed by the MMO then you're just sort of doing a little dance for nothing. If your truck's been taken decent care of there should be no work for the MMO to do at just 135k miles.

I bought a 2007 Kia Sorento from the salvage pool on August 7th, 2019. This wasn't a flood car or wrecked; it was a neglected high mileage car whos owner should be banished to a bicycle .

She had let the oil changes go over 10-12,000 miles many times in it's 203,000 mile life of hardship.
The ABS hydraulic unit had 2 seized valves which resulted in braking on only the left front and right rear wheels! Talk about a challenge to stop it. It was horribly filthy from her heavy smoking and hauling 3 large breed dogs in it.
The Cabin air filter was not only stopped up, it had 1/2 inch of mold growing on it.

I pulled the one valve cover off that could be accessed without removing the intake.

It was literally solid sludge there and in the oil filter housing! One result was a P0016 Cam/Crank correlation code for bank 1 which never went away, but did play hide and seek.

I had it professionally detailed and fixed the ABS unit with a salvage unit. I then began trying EVERY product made to dissolve the sludge.... NOTHING would actually dissolve it, but break it down to coffee ground sized chunks.
Eventually, the oil pump suction screen became overwhelmed.

After 2 attempts at cleaning the screen, I parked the car and found a salvage engine in Midland, Texas with 91,000 miles on it. I paid for it and had it ground shipped to my shop. After letting it sit for a tad over 6 months and gathering parts I needed to replace while I was performing an engine transplant, I spent a week and a half replacing the engine.

The donor engine had zero sludge and was "certified" by the salvage folks I used. They provided documented proof that their claims were true. I took the VIN number off the block and Car Faxed it... and found that the vehicle from which it cam had been properly maintained.

My takeaway from this among the other many times I've attempted to "desludge" an engine is that it isn't possible. An engine that far gone is totalled.

We did get another 30,000 miles on the sludged engine in 4+ years.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

I ran one whole quart of marvel mystery oil in my 2010 5.7 from 95k to 255k when I sold it. It never smoked or used oil or leaked oil. I did all oil changes myself. Used walmart oil 5/20 and the quart of marvel every 5k miles. I do not know if the thinner oil saved me from a lifter problem. Just throwing this out there. I wanted to buy a new Ram 2500 6.4 but they have not fixed the issue and I dont feel like rolling the dice.

Dude,
This thread is from 2019!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How old are you?

 

[Greasemonky]

I’m with you there! It’s not good, but I’m dealing with it. It doesn’t look like its leaking, but i would think that at that rate, i would see smoke out the tailpipe, at least at startup or hard acceleration. I’m not sure if its the PCV or what, but there’s no smell of oil ever and no smoke. That’s why i wanted to try MMO, ive heard it has stopped or at least slowed the oil burning in vehicles.

 

[Greasemonky]

Dodge Man ;
I have a 2008 dodge ram 1500 5.7 L original owner 77,400 mi this is my second hemi engine I’ve never had oil issues with either one I tried full synthetic oil as a test it consumed 3 quarts of oil and 3000 miles change back to 5w20 Blended oil it is 50% synthetic and 50% conventional oil so far have had no issues the only thing I can see is it has what they call the hemi tick sounds like exhaust manifold leak I’ve had the exhaust manifold bolts replaced on the left bank I think they’re gonna have to do the right bank I added 16 ounces of marvel mystery oil to see if that would help anything just for kicks and giggles

 

[Greasemonky]

Dodge Man ;
I have a 2008 dodge ram 1500 5.7 L original owner 77,400 mi this is my second hemi engine I’ve never had oil issues with either one I tried full synthetic oil as a test it consumed 3 quarts of oil and 3000 miles change back to 5w20 Blended oil it is 50% synthetic and 50% conventional oil so far have had no issues the only thing I can see is it has what they call the hemi tick sounds like exhaust manifold leak I’ve had the exhaust manifold bolts replaced on the left bank I think will have to do the right bank I added 16 ounces of marvel mystery oil to see if that would help anything just for kicks and giggles I am a new member probably don’t know how to use the site very well

 

[Hagar1]

Ir wont hurt mds.. It's an oil thinner, not an oil thickner like lucas is. If you look at the sds ad the cSt, clearly it isn't something you want to use in an engine that is burning oil based on viscosity for treating that condition. Usually engines burn oil because of rings and maybe valves, you would want to use a thicker oil not thinner. Furthermore, if the argument is well I want to clean out sludge so I want the solvent to work, understand MMO is a very weak solvent. So I would change pcv and use a high mileage oil if it were me, use a 3k mile interval then the detergents are at their strongest, Pennzoil platinum high mileage oil is a good one, I use this oil 5w30. It wont hurt mds or vvt.

Below is MMO broken down, looks like very thin oil with a weak solvent.

Viscosity (Kinematic @ 100⁰C): 2.0 – 3.0 cSt

3.2 Mixture Component

Petroleum Distillates (Hydrotreated Heavy 64742-52-5 60-100%

Naphthenic) Petroleum Distillates (Stoddard Solvent) 8052-41-3 10-30%

Tricresyl Phosphate 1330-78-5 0.1-1.0%

Ortho Dichlorobenzene 95-50-1 0.1-1.0%

Ha! .... Tricresyl Phosphate, I have a US quart of that stuff out in the garage. Bought it years ago to solve the lead fouling on my airplane engine. I worked good for that problem.