New fogs, matchbox 2.0s, profile switchback halos

[blackbetty14]

decided to rip the MH1 7.0s off the truck and try something different. Got some morimoto matchbox 2.0s and profile switchback halos and some cheap fogs off amazon to open up. Still rockin the hylux 45w ballasts and 5500k XB bulbs.

Took me 5hrs total including opening, retrofitting, wiring and installing. I think it turned out good. The switchback halos are frigin bright! I couldn’t get any good pics at night as the halos are so bright they glare my phone. Also the aftermarket fogs are fully chromed and a lot more reflective than the stocker and you can see it in the pic but they were $58 shipped for the pair with a harness and bulbs with prime.

They are wired into the headlights so white as a DRL/running light and switch to amber on turn signal.

Side note, the matchboxes are tiny but there output really isn’t bad. I get enough foreground with the FXR 3.0 low beams that the matchboxes will compliment nicely.

While I was removing the headlights I decided to swap the 9005 high beams to some real GE 9011 HIR bulbs that helped output without needing to upgrade anything. I had to mod the bulbs and the holder a smidge but they do work and are a good bit brighter!

 

[OC455]

I plan on doing the same with mine. I got a set of OEM fogs from a member here and I am going the Matchbox projector route like you did. I think I am going to go with the 4500k bulbs and the 35w Morimoto ballasts.

 

[RAMMAR]

Looks good! In fact, so good that I'm likely going to change up my headlights now.

 

[JB1]

Wow I’m impressed, those are awesome, you did a great job. You should make some and sell them....I’ll be the first customer lol

 

[blackbetty14]

Haha thanks. Was a lot easier with cheap fogs as the OEM ones are permasealed (strong MF glue).

They have been working good, I like them better than my MH1 7.0s I had before bc the 7.0s are basically extra headlights so I was seeing 4 cuttoffs in my beam pattern which is alittle annoying to see. These have straight cutoffs so it blends in well and it’s hard to see the cutoffs with the headlights on. Plus the matchbox fit under the lense where I had to mold the lense over the 7.0s so it’s a lot easier lol.

Right now I’m rocking XB 3k bulbs for a yellow look (winter snow coming) but I also have some 4500k XBs new in the box I might swap in.

 

[OC455]

Haha thanks. Was a lot easier with cheap fogs as the OEM ones are permasealed (strong MF glue).

Yeah, I tried to get one of the OEM fogs opened. Not successful....

 

[guntisp]

Hi!

Where do you take the signal for Halo from?

 

[blackbetty14]

Hi!

Where do you take the signal for Halo from?

Switch back halos are from retrofitsource.

 

[guntisp]

There is a brown cord from the Driver (turn signal).

Where did you connect this cord?

How did you connect this cord to the car wires?

 

[blackbetty14]

My install is on stock projector headlights.

These are my taps and connector. Orange wire from the switchbacks is the amber 12v which taps onto the stock wiring in the pic (middle).

 

[blackbetty14]

Looks like turn signal is white and brown, running is white and orange stripe

 

[guntisp]

Super! Thank You

 

[guntisp]

Please help!

1) When connecting the halo - they light continuously - even when the car is off.
2) The turn signal is not flashing

I connect the brown wire from the driver to the turn wire at the headlights. I connect the black wire to the ground at the car body.
Controller red wire connect at battery + terminals. I connect the black wire to the ground at the car body.

 

[blackbetty14]

Please help!

1) When connecting the halo - they light continuously - even when the car is off.
2) The turn signal is not flashing

I connect the brown wire from the driver to the turn wire at the headlights. I connect the black wire to the ground at the car body.
Controller red wire connect at battery + terminals. I connect the black wire to the ground at the car body.

not correct. The halo red and black wires plug into the halo controller (small black box). The controller has 3 wire inputs, white, orange and black. Run all 3 of those wires to the back of the headlight and tap into the wires I said before. The white wire on the controller taps into to the running wire on the headlights, orange from controller taps into the turn signals on the headlight and and black taps into the ground behind the headlights.

 

[guntisp]

Maybe something different for me
I have a Profile Performance driver

 

[guntisp]

And such a Morimoto XBT controller

 

[blackbetty14]

Oh well then I can’t help you. I have just the switch back halos. Your controllers prob need constant 12v and a switched 12v. If they are staying on with the truck off then they are wired to battery 12v which is hot all the time and I believe that’s how the prism or (colorMorph) is bc people like to turn them on with the car off. If you wired it to switched/ignition 12v it would only be on when the truck is on.

 

[guntisp]

I found a problem. Wire connector at fault.

Many thanks for the help

 

[guntisp]

Another question - I'm afraid of the moisture in the fog lights.
For me, the bulb is fixed by bulb holder clip. You put rubber housing caps to cover the lamp?

 

[blackbetty14]

Another question - I'm afraid of the moisture in the fog lights.
For me, the bulb is fixed by bulb holder clip. You put rubber housing caps to cover the lamp?

Nope! Mine are open and Ive never gotten water inside the housing or blew a bulb bc of it. The steel back of the projector retaining clip and stuff is rusted tho as its open to the elements. I haven't had the need to figure out a sealing cup or cover up to this point and ive done it like this for the last 5 years on 2 Rams. If the cap/cup isn't sealed what you dont want happening is it collecting water/snow and then forcing it into the bulb/housing/projector causing problems. So if you can't seal it 100% I wouldn't bother with it and the stock housings don't really give you a good way to seal it give the complex shapes and adjuster mechanism etc.