I have a 2009 1500 (5.7 Hemi) SLT variant and have pretty much no heat.
I have flushed the core by disconnecting both heater core lines from the point where they are attached to the block just below the thermostat and also replaced the blend door actuator (the one that's very easily accessible from behind the lower glove-box) - links here for each process along with the calibration of the actuator door. This replaced actuator works fine.
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Additional Info:
I'm sure I have another actuator or two not working properly as prior to the loss of heat problem I was previous having trouble of not getting complete diversion to blowing 100% from the dash vents when switching from other such as floor, defrost, etc - I'd hear clicking / 'thumping' as I'm assuming another actuator was 'trying' to engage; initially it would eventually fully transition to the dash vents after trying a few times but now I only get ~ 60-75% from the dash vents when control is set for only dash.
1. My priority is heat; ultimately I'd like to also correct getting 100% from dash vents but heat is priority.
2. RE Heat priority: 'Hope' is to not have to pull the dash apart to avoid that time-headache.
3. When I flushed (with CLR) the core the flow was laminar and did not seem impeded and once up to temp the heater-core hoses are hot - so I'm assuming hot water is flowing fine thru the core (no sign of water in the cab/carpet)
4. FYI: Thermostat is new (190) and is working properly; temps will get as high as 215 from dash readout and then drop to 190-195 when the thermostat opens.
- Next step(s)? Replace the other actuators? If so, how many others are there?
- Change out the heater-core?
- Any good links for easiest route / short-cut solutions if having to dig deep into the dash?
Thanks,
Steve
I have flushed the core by disconnecting both heater core lines from the point where they are attached to the block just below the thermostat and also replaced the blend door actuator (the one that's very easily accessible from behind the lower glove-box) - links here for each process along with the calibration of the actuator door. This replaced actuator works fine.
Dodge Ram Heater Core Flush
My 2009 Dodge Ram has been blowing warmish air for a few weeks now. This video I'll be flushing the heater core in attempt to restore maximum heat. I also wi...
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2010 Dodge Ram No Heat? How To Calibrate The A/C Heat Blend Door Temp Actuator Location
#car #dodge #howto #automotive #diy #youtube #cars #new #subscribe #like #fyp #mopar #shorts 2010 Dodge Ram No Heat? How To Calibrate The A/C Heat Door Blend...
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Additional Info:
I'm sure I have another actuator or two not working properly as prior to the loss of heat problem I was previous having trouble of not getting complete diversion to blowing 100% from the dash vents when switching from other such as floor, defrost, etc - I'd hear clicking / 'thumping' as I'm assuming another actuator was 'trying' to engage; initially it would eventually fully transition to the dash vents after trying a few times but now I only get ~ 60-75% from the dash vents when control is set for only dash.
1. My priority is heat; ultimately I'd like to also correct getting 100% from dash vents but heat is priority.
2. RE Heat priority: 'Hope' is to not have to pull the dash apart to avoid that time-headache.
3. When I flushed (with CLR) the core the flow was laminar and did not seem impeded and once up to temp the heater-core hoses are hot - so I'm assuming hot water is flowing fine thru the core (no sign of water in the cab/carpet)
4. FYI: Thermostat is new (190) and is working properly; temps will get as high as 215 from dash readout and then drop to 190-195 when the thermostat opens.
- Next step(s)? Replace the other actuators? If so, how many others are there?
- Change out the heater-core?
- Any good links for easiest route / short-cut solutions if having to dig deep into the dash?
Thanks,
Steve
