oil change interval

[Wild one]

People speculate all sorts of stuff but to date nobody has supplied any sort of proof documenting a connection between MDS or oil viscosity and the failure.

I still question Dodges/FCA's quality control on their jobbers suppling the cams and lifters.Only reason being is guys who throw an aftermarket cam in from one of the aftermarket suppliers seem to never have an issue with the cam down the road. Which makes me question the quality of the Rockwell hardness of the original cams. Just my thoughts though,as i got nothing to back it up or prove it,just my observations

 

[El_Dude]

Well, I used the Orielly's brand Full Synthetic and a Wix premium filter. Should I be ok with that? I was thinking of sticking to about 5K to no more than 6K in between oil changes.

 

[retired]

when it comes to oil changers you need to do what makes you comfortable.

 

[El_Dude]

I changed mine every 6-7500 miles with full synthetic. But if you have 22k miles, and it hasn't been changed, you need to change it quick. I did my first oil change at 3k miles, and then went to the interval I mentioned after that.

It was changed previously to me. I have the carfax where it states the oil changes from the previous owner. I bought the truck at 20K miles, the sticker on the windshield says next due is at 22k. I changed it this morning. I found somewhere online where a guy recommended using a ziplock bag around the oil filter to catch oil from falling on steering parts which helped tremendously and made for clean oil change.

 

[corneileous]

People speculate all sorts of stuff but to date nobody has supplied any sort of proof documenting a connection between MDS or oil viscosity and the failure.

Well, I don’t know man but there’s plenty of people on this very forum that have erased their developed Hemi tick by switching to that Red Line 5W30 engine oil so, you tell me. And not only that, there’s also talk that either shutting your MDS off completely via tuner or just not using it makes a difference, too.


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[El_Dude]

Mds is like displacement on demand correct? Does my 5.7 have that?

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[corneileous]

Mds is like displacement on demand correct? Does my 5.7 have that?

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Yeah, in a sense. The MDS; multi-displacement system- only kicks in when you’re driving and your throttle input is low. Then, your V8 becomes a big ole V4 until you start easing on the pedal again.

But if your truck is at least a 4th Gen, it’ll have MDS. Even my ‘08 had it and it was a 3rd-Gen. The new ‘19 model year, they introduced the Etorque which I believe didn’t have the MDS but you could still op for the non-Etorque Hemi that did still have MDS.


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[Daw14]

3000 to 3500 miles , then 5w30 redline. With SRT filter.

 

[Octane]

If I

Well, I don’t know man but there’s plenty of people on this very forum that have erased their developed Hemi tick by switching to that Red Line 5W30 engine oil so, you tell me. And not only that, there’s also talk that either shutting your MDS off completely via tuner or just not using it makes a difference, too.


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The problem is more than likely just cheap crap dodge parts but oil can probably help to some degree or another.Especially with more frequent oil changes.When was the last time an aftermarket camshaft/ lifter failed? Don't know if there even is aftermarket lifters.Probably not.As that would maybe prove that dodge lifters aee just crap.

 

[RAM08110719]

I check the color of the oil. When it starts to get black. I change it. My truck goes through oil fast. I feel all are different. Do time the mileage with the trip odometer. Find out when it's best for you and your truck. I have changed oil after only 1k miles. I have changed oil at 3k. To me it is the condition of the oil. Synthetic or regular. Let the oil do the talking. You might get 10k who knows.

 

[corneileous]

If I

The problem is more than likely just cheap crap dodge parts but oil can probably help to some degree or another.Especially with more frequent oil changes.When was the last time an aftermarket camshaft/ lifter failed? Don't know if there even is aftermarket lifters.Probably not.As that would maybe prove that dodge lifters aee just crap.

Well yeah it could be primarily cheap, poorly designed parts but that’s why lubrication is so important that if number 1, if 20w oil really isn’t thick enough- with poor additives and not enough anti-wear additives like moly, what little oil that gets sloshed up on the cam or lifters would definitely cause a lubrication issue. Which is also why excessive idling is not recommended in these engines.

But hey, at least with the best full synthetic 20 weight oil that you can buy, or even with a heavier 30 weight oil that has even way more of those antiwear additives in it, at least with what little oil that gets slung up there and a lot better oil filter that’s gonna filter out a lot more of the impurities, you’re going to have a lot more of those wear additives sticking to those parts to help lubricate them even though they’re not being drenched in oil the the way they should be so yeah, that’s why I believe that running cheap, non fully synthetic oil, cheap filter and way too long of change intervals with lots of idling is sure to increase your chances of cam and lifter failure just despite the design flaw that you already have, even if you do run 30w Redline.


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[Octane]

Well yeah it could be primarily cheap, poorly designed parts but that’s why lubrication is so important that if number 1, if 20w oil really isn’t thick enough- with poor additives and not enough anti-wear additives like moly, what little oil that gets sloshed up on the cam or lifters would definitely cause a lubrication issue. Which is also why excessive idling is not recommended in these engines.

But hey, at least with the best full synthetic 20 weight oil that you can buy, or even with a heavier 30 weight oil that has even way more of those antiwear additives in it, at least with what little oil that gets slung up there and a lot better oil filter that’s gonna filter out a lot more of the impurities, you’re going to have a lot more of those wear additives sticking to those parts to help lubricate them even though they’re not being drenched in oil the the way they should be so yeah, that’s why I believe that running cheap, non fully synthetic oil, cheap filter and way too long of change intervals with lots of idling is sure to increase your chances of cam and lifter failure just despite the design flaw that you already have, even if you do run 30w Redline.


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Agreed

 

[corneileous]

I check the color of the oil. When it starts to get black. I change it. My truck goes through oil fast. I feel all are different. Do time the mileage with the trip odometer. Find out when it's best for you and your truck. I have changed oil after only 1k miles. I have changed oil at 3k. To me it is the condition of the oil. Synthetic or regular. Let the oil do the talking. You might get 10k who knows.

I really believe the only way to let your oil tell you that information is not through color, but to let it speak to you though oil analysis. That’s gonna tell you how your motor is wearing through measuring the iron content, tell you how many insolubles and water is floating around in your crankcase and most importantly when your oil starts to break down and loses its viscosity and lubricity.

If I was to ever go 10,000 miles on an oil change, it would be first and foremost what my oil analysis says and second, this wouldn’t be on no cheap, run-of-the-mill engine oil. This would either be on Pennzoil Ultra platinum or like that Amsoil signature series oil that’s guaranteed to run up to 25,000 miles or one year.


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[Octane]

The oil getting darker is suspended by products of combustion.That shows the oil is cleaning up.

 

[El_Dude]

Wow, lots of good info. Thanks everyone. I know orielly oil is the cheapest one they have at oriellys, but from what I've read as long as it's ase certified and has the LE, NS or whatever all those letter certs are, it should be ok. So the bigger difference is the additives? Honestly asking, should I get a different brand of oil and filter for the next time?

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[Octane]

Wow, lots of good info. Thanks everyone. I know orielly oil is the cheapest one they have at oriellys, but from what I've read as long as it's ase certified and has the LE, NS or whatever all those letter certs are, it should be ok. So the bigger difference is the additives? Honestly asking, should I get a different brand of oil and filter for the next time?

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I use havoline pro ds 5w30 from walmart in the eco friendly box.I get 6 quarts of oil for $19.95 that way and then just get an additional quart to finish it out.I think it's a good deal for synthetic.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Once a year

 

[LuvinMyRam]

From what I researched, it seems that the oil outlasts the oil filter. Thats why I change mine at no less than 25% off of the vehicles oil life guage (7500kms).
I do it just as a safe guard in case the oilfilter is getting plugged up or got a lemon, and I keep all my receipts and when I do it, in case I trade it in. Too each his own I guess.

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[Octane]

From what I researched, it seems that the oil outlasts the oil filter. Thats why I change mine at no less than 25% off of the vehicles oil life guage (7500kms).
I do it just as a safe guard in case the oilfilter is getting plugged up or got a lemon, and I keep all my receipts and when I do it, in case I trade it in. Too each his own I guess.

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Sure. The filters have a bypass valve and changing oil regularly there wont be sludge to clog a filter and personally I dont use paper element filters.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Absolutely no more than 5,000 mile oil change intervals on these sensitive engines. Or GDI engines, either. Forget about the oil change indicator and the marketing hype in the User Manual. Can't trust these companies anymore.

Lest you think I'm paranoid, look at all the valve lifter and camshaft failures on here. Exhaust bolt breakage, too.