oil change interval

[kurek]

I'm kind of amazed that exhaust manifold stud breakage is still something that happens on any engine, it was an understood engineering challenge half a century ago it's not like nobody's had time to work on it.

But also I don't see how anything about oil would have anything to do with that?

 

[corneileous]

Absolutely no more than 5,000 mile oil change intervals on these sensitive engines. Or GDI engines, either. Forget about the oil change indicator and the marketing hype in the User Manual. Can't trust these companies anymore.

Lest you think I'm paranoid, look at all the valve lifter and camshaft failures on here. Exhaust bolt breakage, too.

EXACTLY. Even though I got lifetime warranty on my truck that would only cost me 100 bucks to fix, I still don’t want to become a statistic to this design flaw. That’s why I still use what I think is the best oil I can use that should satisfy my warranty along with a really good oil filter and change my oil a whole lot sooner because yeah, since I have remote start- and I do take quite the advantage of that and now it’s to the point where I almost don’t even really want to use that anymore as much because the excessive idling is part of this problem as well because that just causes so much more lack of lubrication.

The Amsoil signature series 5W 20 that I used on my last oil change wasn’t cheap but as far as I’m concerned, that’s not hard for me to spend little over 120 bucks on oil, filter and the cost of my oil analysis once a year. To me, that’s just cheap insurance to make sure that nothing ever happens to my engine in that way.


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[corneileous]

I'm kind of amazed that exhaust manifold stud breakage is still something that happens on any engine, it was an understood engineering challenge half a century ago it's not like nobody's had time to work on it.

But also I don't see how anything about oil would have anything to do with that?

The broken manifold bolts is totally a completely different issue. The oil weight, type, quality and change interval is what’s concerning the lack of lubrication on the lifters and the camshaft.

I don’t know why the broken manifold bolts seem to still be a problem…


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[El_Dude]

Anyone have a solution to avoid the broken manifold bolts, I know off topic but maybe a link to a solution?

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[Jon1704]

Every 5k is a good rule of thumb , I read that the MDS works best with clean oil . Who knows might help out the cam &lifter crash also ..just my 2 cents worth

 

[corneileous]

Wow, lots of good info. Thanks everyone. I know orielly oil is the cheapest one they have at oriellys, but from what I've read as long as it's ase certified and has the LE, NS or whatever all those letter certs are, it should be ok. So the bigger difference is the additives? Honestly asking, should I get a different brand of oil and filter for the next time?

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That’s really up to you. Do some looking around on Google. That Bob is the oil guy web forum usually has some pretty good information concerning that question and even the synthetic oil thread that’s on this forum has some really good information also but from what I understand, the Quaker State ultimate durability 5w20, the Schaeffers 9000 5W20, Amsoil SS 5w20 and even the shell truck and SUV 5W 20 have a really good additive package in them. The 5W20 Pennzoil ultra platinum is a really common choice in engine oil around here and I think it worked really well in my truck because that’s what I used all the way up until this last oil change but it doesn’t have a whole lot of molybdenum in it to the tune of about 50 ppm and since my iron content was still kinda high, that’s what made me want to switch to the Amsoil signature series is because it supposedly has somewhere upwards of 250 to 300 ppm of molybdenum.

But any good full synthetic engine oil with a really good synthetic media oil filter like the Wix XP for example, and no more than 6500 to 7000 mile oil changes is going to do you probably about the best you can ever get. That Pennzoil Ultra Platinum that I was using, with a Wix XP filter, only cost me about 50 bucks per change, even including the cost of my oil analysis.


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[kurek]

I read that the MDS works best with clean oil .

that's my attitude about literally everything mechanical - always works best when it's clean

 

[Wild one]

Anyone have a solution to avoid the broken manifold bolts, I know off topic but maybe a link to a solution?

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The best option so far is when the manifolds warp and break the bolts,is take your original manifolds to a machine shop and have them shaved flat,and re-install with all new hardware.If you put new manifolds back on,you'll just start the warp cycle all over again.Usually once a cast iron manifold warps and takes a "set" it won't warp again,so shaving your original warped manifolds usually cures the warp problem .A big belt sander can also be used to plane them down to where they're straight again. The other option is to install either a set of shorty or long tube headers.

 

[corneileous]

The best option so far is when the manifolds warp and break the bolts,is take your original manifolds to a machine shop and have them shaved flat,and re-install with all new hardware.If you put new manifolds back on,you'll just start the warp cycle all over again.Usually once a cast iron manifold warps and takes a "set" it won't warp again,so shaving your original warped manifolds usually cures the warp problem .A big belt sander can also be used to plane them down to where they're straight again. The other option is to install either a set of shorty or long tube headers.

So what’s the problem, the outer mounting surface of the exhaust manifold is on a slope or something that bends the bolts when they’re tightened which eventually makes them break, or what?


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[Wild one]

So what’s the problem, the outer mounting surface of the exhaust manifold is on a slope or something that bends the bolts when they’re tightened which eventually makes them break, or what?


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More the 2 differant expansion/contraction factors between the aluminium heads and the cast iron manifolds.The cast iron manifolds don't expand and contract at the same rate the cylinder head does,plus cast iron manifolds warp to beat hell,so between the 2 factors of differant expansion rates and a throw in warped manifold it stresses the bolts until they eventually break

 

[michaelm_ski]

I change my Oil every 5000 miles in my 5.7 and my chevy 3/4 ton 350 with full synthetic but I live in a dirt road subdivision in the country so I rather keep it clean and at peak performance to keep my engines in top condition .

 

[corneileous]

More the 2 differant expansion/contraction factors between the aluminium heads and the cast iron manifolds.The cast iron manifolds don't expand and contract at the same rate the cylinder head does,plus cast iron manifolds warp to beat hell,so between the 2 factors of differant expansion rates and a throw in warped manifold it stresses the bolts until they eventually break

So then what’s the difference between the stock manifolds and a set of headers as far as bolt breakage? Lemmie guess, the mounting flange on these stock manifolds aren’t as thick as the flanges as your typical set of aftermarket headers?


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[RLJ10X]

I don't remember ever hearing anyone with either long, or shorty Headers breaking bolts. Shorty Headers are a cheap fix. Long tubes yield more HP. Take your pic.

Chrysler uses those obsolete iron logs because they're cheap.

Why does Chrysler put cheap, junk parts in their trucks? Because their trucks are built to a price point. They set the price and build the best vehicle they can with the money they are allotted. Unfortunately for us enthusiasts, we are outnumbered by the tight wads that would have bought a Ford if it was $10 cheaper than the Dodge.

 

[El_Dude]

So just to be clear. I should go ahead and get shorty exhaust manifolds for my truck before i run in to that problem?

i just looked them up on summit racing, theyre $750
https://www.summitracing.com/search...&PageRollup=ProductName&N=header-style:shorty

btw to any mods, apologies for turning this thread from oil to an exhaust convo

 

[corneileous]

So just to be clear. I should go ahead and get shorty aluminum exhaust manifolds for my truck before i run in to that problem?

btw to any mods, apologies for turning this thread from oil to an exhaust convo

You don’t have to unless you just absolutely want to for other reasons but if your only reason for spending money now on a set of new headers is just so that you don’t ever have to deal with the Hemi broke manifold bolt problem then save your money and do it when it happens. Get the full use out of your factory manifolds or just do linda like the one guy said and pull your manifold off and put it back on with a new gasket and new bolts.


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[El_Dude]

You don’t have to unless you just absolutely want to for other reasons but if your only reason for spending money now on a set of new headers is just so that you don’t ever have to deal with the Hemi broke manifold bolt problem then save your money and do it when it happens. Get the full use out of your factory manifolds or just do linda like the one guy said and pull your manifold off and put it back on with a new gasket and new bolts.

Thank you. That sounds reasonable. Yes I would rather do a preventive fix sooner then have to worry about broken bolts in the heads later down the road. Im in the middle of reading the sticky post as well on this topic.

 

[corneileous]

Thank you. That sounds reasonable. Yes I would rather do a preventive fix sooner then have to worry about broken bolts in the heads later down the road.

I see you edited your other post while I was typing my other one and you added how much new headers are most likely gonna run ya so even more, unless you just want headers, run those until it happens.

But even if you wait till it happens, it’s really no big deal, just take care of it whenever you can or whenever you feel like messing with it because when I sold my old 2008 1500 Hemi shortly after I bought my brand new 2018, it had a little bit of some kind a tick if it was idling after it warmed up but since I never had it checked, I don’t know if it was the cam and lifter tick, or if it was a broken manifold bolt but, if I would’ve kept that old truck, that’s probably what I would’ve done at that point if a broke bolt is what it was, was just bought me a new set of headers to go on it because at least headers can give you a little bit more power and fuel economy because they flow your exhaust gasses out of your engine so much better than a stock exhaust manifold does but, either way, I could’ve just done that, or do like I suggested to you earlier which was just pull the manifold off, stick a new gasket in there and reattach it with brand new bolts.


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[Jsicamore]

I have a 2015 Ram 1500 and about 2 years ago the truck started ticking when I turned it on, then went away. Took it in and the Manifold bolts had snapped. Total cost to replace both sides was $1900 but I had a third party warranty. I’m a novice when it comes to trucks but it seems like these bolts always break so if you can get out ahead of a more expensive problem it might be worth it.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I'll add my .02

On my 11, ran semi syn and paper filter till 80k 4k OCI, switched to RP 5/30 and SRT filter from 80 to 100, 6k OCI. Redline 5w30 and SRT till now 8k OCI, I'm at 153k.

Noticed manifold broken bolts at 80k, fixed at 120k ish. New manifolds and bolts. Still fixed at 153k.

Don't overthink it

 

[scubasteege]

I change my oil about every 9k miles on my 2016. Full synthetic with a k&n oil filter has kept it happy for 130k miles no engine problems. Well just had both sides of my exhaust manifold bolts replaced so that wasn’t fun but hopefully she’s good for a while.