Power Steering Failure (2017 Laramie 5.7)

[Jeepwalker]

Yeah mine on my 2019 classic still crapped out at 42k miles, so I don't think they "fixed" anything

Yeah... that's the pitts! They basically replaced a part that almost never gave problems, with a much more complex, computer-controlled part that costs far too much to replace (and could be a life-safety issue when they fail!!) ...so they could add safety nannies, self-driving (correcting) capabilities that we never asked for (and don't work all that great if you ask me) ...and maybe save a very small amt of energy (on a pickup people might lift and put big tires on).

 

[JPatterson98]

Hope for the best when you check the connectors, fuses, terminals, grounds and the EPS unit itself.

But,

It's a known weak point on our trucks and they seem to fail pretty often. Unless you go aftermarket, this is the correct Mopar part#. It's expensive, but mine was plug and play with no programming required.

View attachment 566507


If you go used, you will need to reinitalize the unit with AlfaOBD, as it will have the old unit's VIN still programmed into it's memor. ( So i've heard. I have no firsthand experience with a used one).

Just called the dealership and they’re saying I’ll need to tow my truck to them to get it reprogrammed due to the replacement unit locking up once installed. I get the unit is assigned to another VIN, but wouldn’t I still be able to drive it to them?

 

[JPatterson98]

Have you checked if you still have power to the unit before you look for a replacement?

That was my first step. The unit is receiving power.

 

[GeauxinUp]

Just called the dealership and they’re saying I’ll need to tow my truck to them to get it reprogrammed due to the replacement unit locking up once installed. I get the unit is assigned to another VIN, but wouldn’t I still be able to drive it to them?

Can't this be programmed with AlfaOBD? I'd go that route before bringing it to the dealer. Way cheaper and you'll be able to use Alfa in the future.

 

[Ken226]

Just called the dealership and they’re saying I’ll need to tow my truck to them to get it reprogrammed due to the replacement unit locking up once installed. I get the unit is assigned to another VIN, but wouldn’t I still be able to drive it to them?

I'd try AlfaOBD first.

Connect to the steering unit then try the "reset vin values"



I can't say for sure that it will work since I used a new unit. Maybe someone who has actually done can chime in.

 

[JPatterson98]

I'd try AlfaOBD first.

Connect to the steering unit then try the "reset vin values"

View attachment 566911

I can't say for sure that it will work since I used a new unit. Maybe someone who has actually done can chime in.

I don’t personally own a scanner, the one I was using belongs to the auto hobby shop here on base. To make the situation even better, the used part I was sent was, of course, (drum roll) the wrong part.

 

[04fxdwgi]

I don’t personally own a scanner, the one I was using belongs to the auto hobby shop here on base. To make the situation even better, the used part I was sent was, of course, (drum roll) the wrong part.

Personally, if I were in your situation, I would consider purchasing AlfaOBD program (download and pay on line) and an OBDLink MX+ OBD dongle (for example, $135 at Amazon). The MX+ works flawlesly with AlfaOBD on my Windows11 laptop..

That will give you a powerfull diagnostic and troubleshooting device in your console anytime you need it. Plus opens all kinds of things to change features on your truck. Your '17 doesn't need a security bypass cable.

Amazon.com

 

[JPatterson98]

Personally, if I were in your situation, I would consider purchasing AlfaOBD program (download and pay on line) and an OBDLink MX+ OBD dongle (for example, $135 at Amazon). The MX+ works flawlesly with AlfaOBD on my Windows11 laptop..

That will give you a powerfull diagnostic and troubleshooting device in your console anytime you need it. Plus opens all kinds of things to change features on your truck. Your '17 doesn't need a security bypass cable.

Amazon.com

I’ll check it out for future issues.

Opened up the rack computer and it’s beyond fried. Ton of water buildup and corrosion everywhere. After seeing the prices for new racks, I’m likely just gonna convert to a hydraulic system. Being in Alaska, seems that’s the way to go with a 4th gen w/ EPS

 

[Ken226]

I’ll check it out for future issues.

Opened up the rack computer and it’s beyond fried. Ton of water buildup and corrosion everywhere. After seeing the prices for new racks, I’m likely just gonna convert to a hydraulic system. Being in Alaska, seems that’s the way to go with a 4th gen w/ EPS

Converting to hydraulic WILL require computer changes. Factor the price of AlfaOBD and the OBD Link MX+ into your decision. Your computer's gonna lose it's **** when you try to drive with the EPS connecter not connected, because the hydraulic rack does NOT have that connector.


Be careful of Jumping over a dollar to save a dime. By the time you buy the brackets, rack, pump, belt and pulleys, then do the cutting and welding, buy Alfa and a OBD LinkMX, plus the labor and tools, I doubt you'll be saving much, if any money. Probably will cost more than just buying a new Mopar EPS.

 

[Daw14]

I’ll check it out for future issues.

Opened up the rack computer and it’s beyond fried. Ton of water buildup and corrosion everywhere. After seeing the prices for new racks, I’m likely just gonna convert to a hydraulic system. Being in Alaska, seems that’s the way to go with a 4th gen w/ EPS

It wouLd benefit a lot of members if you was to share the process of converting to hydraulic system .

 

[Ken226]

It wouLd benefit a lot of members if you was to share the process of converting to hydraulic system .

If I remember right, when @Evguy1 did his EPS to hydraulic conversion, he said the hardest part was that the crossmember in the front of the frame had to be modified because the bolt mount points for the electric rack are in a totally different location than the hydraulic rack.

He was able turn off the EPS in the truck BCM using AlfaOBD, but had to do some drilling, cutting and welding for the hydraulic rack mounting points.

Maybe he can chime in.

 

[Ken226]

It took me a moment to find it. Here is his thread:

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/rambo-old-farts-last-build.160780/page-5#post-2671783

His mods for mounting the hydraulic rack:

 

[Makdime]

Same thing happened to me. Got ready to pull out of the parking spot and got the warning light. Drove home with no powersteering and hooked up the obd and cleared the code and it was fine. But once the truck turns off and on again, its back to stiff. I also read a BCM code, so I'm attempting to 'reset' it by disconnecting the terminals and touching them together for a while to 'drain' the electronics and hopefully it will reset and work again. When I run the live diagnostic the EPS engine still has rpms and voltage although the steer assist is set to 'not active' by whatever is triggering it. So I am hoping its not the actual EPS and more of a communication issue. But either way sucks haha

 

[Jeepwalker]

Self-Breathing?

I suspect even if the boot wasn't torn, the circuit board (sealed) compartment might itself create and hold it's own condensation. Imagine the scenario: Board creates heat... warm air in compartment holds more moisture. Owner shuts off truck at gas station(work/mall/school or wherever) ...aluminum housing cools warm air, some moisture condenses onto the cool inside of the aluminum housing. Owner drives to next stop, same thing. Do over and over and it effectively "pumps" (sucks) air in, like a double-pane glass window that's lost it's seal. Creates it's own moisture. In the winter the moisture droplets turn to ice, doesn't evaporate and only gets worse??

Just a theory. I could be wrong. Reason I say this is because most of the owners on the forum who've opened up the housing and water literally drained out ...didn't report having a torn or damaged boot or going through water. Ram kind of predicted this would happen and went to the extra effort to encase the circuit boards in a clear 'conform-it' coating to protect the components from moisture.

Are the 2017 and newer circuit board housings vented? I would think drilling/tapping a hole on the bottom side (for drainage) and a hose to a barbed fitting out to somewhere, ...and a barbed fitting on the top with a hose up higher would allow air flow and drainage keeping it dry in there.

Then you solved one problem!! All you need to worry about after that are the sensors failing, electric motor failing, the belt breaking (or slipping), fuse crapping out, stray voltage killing the system, moisture gumming up any of the grease or internal motor!

 

[Jeepwalker]

There's an off-road forum I hang out on. One of the members indicated he couldn't wait to get his hands on an EPS unit for a SAS build he was doing (Solid Axle Swap). It would solve a lot of problems vs hydraulic.

I gave him the wonderful news how reliable they were ...how great they would be for off-roading and crossing streams, and inexpensive to replace if one crapped out, their larger size ...(vs hydraulic)!! An EPS would solve all the engine-side hydraulics though.

.