QA1 Shocks: Modified & Installed on 4G Ram - Parts Needed, Install Tips, etc..

[DavidRam]

I am not saying this is the only way, I am not even saying this is the right way, I am saying this is my way, lol!

Btw, I have never done anything like this in my life... This is the first time I have ever replaced shocks on any vehicle (except a motorcycle).

To start with, here are the shocks part numbers and prices, ordered from Summit:
Front TS 507 $145 each
Rear TS 801 $155 each

("S" is for single adjustable, the "D" would be dual adjustable)

Here are the extended and collapsed measurements:
Front is 14.4" Extended, and 9.4" Collapsed
Rear is 21" Extended, 13.5" Collapsed

 

[DavidRam]

I will add parts, pics and install tips to this thread as quickly as I have time...

 

[Hemi450hp]

David, how does the truck feel with the new shocks? Have you had a chance to drive it yet? I'm considering these for the rear on my 4wd.

 

[charonblk07]

What else was needed for the install on the rears? I'm going with the double adjustables when I do the suspension rework next month. You need to change out the lower bushings correct, that's it as far as I know.

 

[DavidRam]

David, how does the truck feel with the new shocks? Have you had a chance to drive it yet? I'm considering these for the rear on my 4wd.

Hey Matt, I installed the front QA1s first and drove around for a week with them and the BTs in back. Noticeable difference front to back...

Now with all 4 in, there is definitely a much more stable feel. The truck moves around alot less and is much less bouncey. I have them set at 10 (on a 0-18 adjustable) which is firm, but still very comfortable.

On my way home from work tonight, I took some turns that I take everyday and it takes a higher speed to squeal the tires with QA1s than with my BT shocks (especially when there is some uneven asphalt).

 

[UNBROKEN]

Hell...my rears were on 14. Firm is a relative thing I guess....I thought anything less was too soft. lol

 

[DavidRam]

FRONT SHOCKS - Mods and Install

The front shocks are the easiest.

Take the longer closed crossbar from the rear shock and put it on the front shock (replacing the shorter open crossbar).

They are very easy to swap, just have a pair of snap ring pliers handy (I did not even know what a snap ring was until this stage, thank you TylerB!) Snap ring pliers-Harbor Freight $6.99.


On installation you might find that the supplied crossbar is a hair short and it won't allow the factory bolts to go back in...

I drilled out the nuts that are welded onto the frame and then popped them off with a hammer, so I could use the really nice nuts and bolts that come with the shocks, I added a washer to the inside nut.

Drilling them hollow made them alot easier to remove than trying to remove them whole (trust me I tried, but then again I am a rookie, lol).

The top bolt/nuts installs in 2 minutes, no explanation needed there. By the way, I wrapped the shocks in a thick layer of plastic wrap while installing them, because they are sooooo pretty I didn't want to scratch them!

That's it the fronts are done. If you want to do what I did, start by doing the only the front ones. It really gave me a great way to compare them.

Edit: Btw, guys I am NOT at all saying I am good at this type of mod. I am a designer, I am very good at designing. I am NOT good at modifying and installing shocks that were made for a 70s Chevy truck, lmao!

So if my advise contradicts anything that Unbroken says, or some of the other guys who have the QA1s, please take THEIR advise over mine. This is just a write-up of what I did and I am open to suggestions on how I could have done it better or different.

 

[DavidRam]

Hell...my rears were on 14. Firm is a relative thing I guess....I thought anything less was too soft. lol

Haha! I started at 8 and I am working my way up... I am still testing them out.

Trying not to crush a vertebrae just yet!

Believe it or not, to me 10 feels firmer than BTs shocks.

 

[DavidRam]

What else was needed for the install on the rears? I'm going with the double adjustables when I do the suspension rework next month. You need to change out the lower bushings correct, that's it as far as I know.

I am gonna post the info for the rears right now.

 

[DavidRam]

REAR SHOCKS - Mods and Install

The rear shocks took a little more work, and they are still not quite done. The are installed and fine for now, but I would like some input on my temporary fix and if that is a bad idea or not...

First, I removed the lower bushing that has a smaller ID by cutting it out with a knife. The metal sleeves that come with the QA1s do NOT fit the factory bolts which are 9/16 thick, and I did not want to use narrower bolts (I like my bolts like I like my women, big and thick, J/K!).

Also, I had ordered 4 brand new Mopar bolts and nuts from AllMoparParts (thank you Benny, you were very helpful as always!) Set of 4 nuts/bolts $41 shipped.

I ordered QA1 bushings from Summit part #9032-02 $6.99 each. See picture. I only needed 2, but I ordered 3 encase I ruined one. I also ordered sleeves and had them cut to size. See picture.

I left the top bushing (where the crossbar was) in place because this was the size bushing I planned on using. THIS IS WHERE I MADE A MISTAKE!!!

My mistake was that I did NOT measure the mounting width on my truck to make sure it matched the shocks/bushings/sleeves and ofcourse, my luck, it didn't (I found this out on install day). The sleeves/bushings measure 1.25" and the mounts measure roughly 1 5/8". **** me!

I decided "**** it", I am this far along and I want these shocks in TODAY... so I ran grabbed some washers to fill in the gap, approx 3/16" on either side.

If you look closely at the rear shock pictures, on the lower mount you can see the washers.

Any opinions on that???

 

[DavidRam]

Installing the rears.

I did not remove the wheel well liner cover thing. I just removed all the screws so I could move it around as needed, that worked fine.

I ordered a little shorty wrench 13/16 for the top bolt/nut and that worked perfectly. See pic. I just hooked it onto the nut and let it sit there without even having to hold it, while I loosened/tightened the bolt with a breaker bar and then finished it off with a ratchet.

I also ordered 2x 13/16 sockets encase I broke one, because I am famous for breaking tools, lol! I did break one ratchet and twisted the **** out a breaker bar during this install.

 

[O.R.T.]

The only caution I would give as far as the washers is they look galvanized and depending on what type of driving and road conditions you see they might corrode a small bit.

If they're something that honestly is concerning you I'll say two things.

Make sure the i.d. of the washers is correct, Things loosen up and if there's play they conceivably, after a lot of miles, could, possibly begin to cut into the bolt threads.

If that is a concern, honestly, just measure the stack thickness of them, looks like 2 together, and have proper spacers machined.

As far as them being for a 1970's C-Truck, who cares?

For daily and spirited driving honestly not much has changed as far as the overall theoreticals on shock valve settings. Now if you were going 3 way or more, then we could talk about shim stacks, oil weights, hysteresis, boil points, etc-etc.

 

[DavidRam]

The only caution I would give as far as the washers is they look galvanized and depending on what type of driving and road conditions you see they might corrode a small bit.

If they're something that honestly is concerning you I'll say two things.

Make sure the i.d. of the washers is correct, Things loosen up and if there's play they conceivably, after a lot of miles, could, possibly begin to cut into the bolt threads.

If that is a concern, honestly, just measure the stack thickness of them, looks like 2 together, and have proper spacers machined.

As far as them being for a 1970's C-Truck, who cares?

For daily and spirited driving honestly not much has changed as far as the overall theoreticals on shock valve settings. Now if you were going 3 way or more, then we could talk about shim stacks, oil weights, hysteresis, boil points, etc-etc.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Wow, you have good eyes and a good resolution on your screen! They are galvanized and I definitely consider them a temporary fix, I ran down to OSH and grabbed them. The ID of the washers fits the bolts perfectly though, very snug.

I have actually found a spacer that fits: Morton TW-5SS Stainless Steel 300 Heavy Duty Washer, 9/16" Bolt Size, 19/32" ID x 1-3/16" OD, 3/16" Thick (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Do you think I should get that?? Or should I get new bushings and sleeves to fill the gap??

IN my rookie mind, my concern with thicker bushings was them wearing and coming apart quickly. Filling that gap would put a really big lip on them...

 

[DavidRam]

These bushings would bring the total out to 1.5". But that is still 1/8" short of the mounting brackets... Which means I would still need to add washers.
.

 

[charonblk07]

You should be good with the washers, they're just filler to stop the shock from sliding around in the mount and causing the sleeve to wear out the inside of the bushing. The best solution is a properly sized bushing and sleeve combo, that's what I would do.


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[DavidRam]

You should be good with the washers, they're just filler to stop the shock from sliding around in the mount and causing the sleeve to wear out the inside of the bushing. The best solution is a properly sized bushing and sleeve combo, that's what I would do.


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Thanks for the advise!

Despite the bushings lip becoming that thick??? Also, where would I find bushings like that???

I have spent hours looking everywhere, I have gone though every single bushing that Energy Suspension makes, and nothing.

They would need to be shaped like the above which are QA1 bushings, have an ID of 3/4" and need to be 1 5/8" long.

Maybe if I can't find anything closer, I should get the above and add only a 1/16" washer on either side???

The sleeves are easy, these guys will cut them to any size.

 

[charonblk07]

As long as the sleeve is the correct length you're fine to add a spacer to fill in the gap between the mount and the bushing. And why would they need to be shaped the same? You just need something to prevent the shock from sliding around and to take any lateral deflection.


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[DavidRam]

As long as the sleeve is the correct length you're fine to add a spacer to fill in the gap between the mount and the bushing. And why would they need to be shaped the same? You just need something to prevent the shock from sliding around and to take any lateral deflection.


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I didn't mean it as a firm statement, but rather "I think I would need that approximate shape or there abouts-ish!" Lol

Cool, thanks!

Are stainless steel washers/spacers good enough or should I get something else??

 

[DavidRam]

Now if you were going 3 way or more, then we could talk about shim stacks, oil weights, hysteresis, boil points, etc-etc.

Man, I have no idea what any of that means... I have alot to learn.


I will drive around as is for a week or two while I scrape the parts together and then I'll get it done right.

I will also post up more impressions of the way these things handle, so far I can say they are DEFINITELY an awesome upgrade!

I wonder what it would take to get QA1 to make these for our trucks..? I am going to ask them that on Monday.

 

[O.R.T.]

Run what you have in there for now, check things in a week or so as far as things still being torqued right and go from there. What you have setup there far surpasses some of the Jury-Rigging I've seen over time. Then take the reigns and I would say do an inspection of them every 90-120 days as far as overall to watch for any concerns.

In the post just above this reply you say you will be talking with QA-1. DO that, show them this thread as your pictures speak to your concerns and from an Engineering-Tech perspective I was able to figure out things. I am sure they will too.

*Seems they don't even need to make one for our rigs, since you and possibly others have already retrofitted something. That said there likely should be a look into how they are holding up knowing off the top of my head my C-10 SCLB weighed similar to my current truck.

**What can I say here? I'm lucky to have lived the life I have and met or worked with some very experienced/cool/smart individuals. As far as screen resolution, yep Mac FTW, except I'd have to Boot Camp it to run any pc software to play in our ECU's.

EDIT: Your lower shock bolt-nut are also galvanized. No need to go stainless right now. Actually having galvanized-galvanized is better since the metal treatments are the same and inherently mimmic the factory stuff, which is galvanized to prevent corrosion since it's down where road debris, dirt, moisture-etc. are.