Question about Bilstein 5100 install

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tma777

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Do you have access to the Navy base there in Norfolk? If so I would see if they have a hobby shop (auto skills center) that you could get a bay in, it's like $10 an hour I think for a lift bay, much easier with access to a lift and all the tools. I just thought about that when I saw you were in Norfolk, I am in Fredericksburg about 2 hours north of you.
 

shadowhawk

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I have a guy I trust for things I can't do myself. EVERYONE, IMO, should have that mechanic identified before you need them
 
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Benningtonr

Benningtonr

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Do you have access to the Navy base there in Norfolk? If so I would see if they have a hobby shop (auto skills center) that you could get a bay in, it's like $10 an hour I think for a lift bay, much easier with access to a lift and all the tools. I just thought about that when I saw you were in Norfolk, I am in Fredericksburg about 2 hours north of you.


I do not, did my 12 and got out. May have a buddy with access though.
 

tma777

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I do not, did my 12 and got out. May have a buddy with access though.

It's worth a check, if they have a DoD ID card to include Common Access Card (CAC) either civilian or contractor, retiree and of course active duty they can use the facilities on the base.
 

JB1

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What have they quoted you for the work with parts they supply?

you could always return what you bought
 

Daniel Kepfer

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Hey guys, I've got a 2017 crew cab laramie. I'm about to attempt the bilstein upgrade but I'm much more familiar with motorcycles than I am vehicle suspension etc. I want to lift this right and ensure that nothing breaks later due to the bilstein swap. Can someone explain in detail what should be done to include parts from beginning to end? I have access to a hobby shop so tools aren't an issue.

I've read though this thread responses mentioning struts, UCA, ball joints etc. Just wondering what I need to do this right the first time. Thanks in advance for your help!
 

tma777

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What setting are planning to go with 2.1, 2.8? What’s the primary use of your truck, on road/off road? There are quite a few threads on here about what is/isn’t needed based on preference and peace of mind. Check out YouTube as well for install videos and tips.
 

shadowhawk

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Hey guys, I've got a 2017 crew cab laramie. I'm about to attempt the bilstein upgrade but I'm much more familiar with motorcycles than I am vehicle suspension etc. I want to lift this right and ensure that nothing breaks later due to the bilstein swap. Can someone explain in detail what should be done to include parts from beginning to end? I have access to a hobby shop so tools aren't an issue.

I've read though this thread responses mentioning struts, UCA, ball joints etc. Just wondering what I need to do this right the first time. Thanks in advance for your help!

There are a few other bilstein threads that are more comprehensive than this one.
 

jeffstoy

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I am preparing for the same job, but I will use the non adjustable 4600. My fear is that the remaining hardeare could be shot because I have a much older 07. The setup sounds Identical. One of those rusty top studs might shear off and things are knocking around, so I am replacing the remaining hardware and only reusing the springs. I wish Bilstein made a complete strut module. I am using Moog for the hardware unless somebody has a better suggestion. I got the Eastwood 3 clamp spring compresor set, that I think is rebranded OEM brand. This is my first strut rebuild so with the big truck springs, the extra clamp can't hurt. I found a really good step by step online with great photos. They are from an outfit rhat sells lift kits. Disassembly is the same whether you are installing a lift kit or not and reassembly is the same, less the spacer. All torque specs are given. I'll go find the link if somebody wants it.

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Rader

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One more question, setting these at 2.1 with all other components being stock, will my upper ball joints pop out or have unnecessary strain on them?

I do not travel off road, just snow and some sand.

This is what confuses this issue....Leveling spacers that bolt on top of front struts make the overall extended length of struts longer. A longer strut assembly allow the suspension to droop more = enough in some cases that the upper ball joint limit and can pop out.

OK, Bilsteins do NOT put more strain on upper ball joints than OEM struts. The reason they don't is the assembled fully extended length of Bilsteins is very close to the same length of OEM struts so they do not allow the suspension to droop more than OEM struts.

This should be obvious but going by the question and relies some do not understand how Bilsteins actually lift. Short version....When you change/move the snap ring up from OEM position on Bilsteins basically you are moving the spring perch up, when assembled this changes/adds spring PRELOAD. The length of the assembled strut is UNCHANGED. SO it does not matter if Bilsteins are set at OEM preload or set at lift setting 2.8 the strut extended length is the same so when drooped the UCA angle is the same and the ball joint is not in a strain.
 

GIJoe2010

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I am preparing for the same job, but I will use the non adjustable 4600. My fear is that the remaining hardeare could be shot because I have a much older 07. The setup sounds Identical. One of those rusty top studs might shear off and things are knocking around, so I am replacing the remaining hardware and only reusing the springs. I wish Bilstein made a complete strut module. I am using Moog for the hardware unless somebody has a better suggestion. I got the Eastwood 3 clamp spring compresor set, that I think is rebranded OEM brand. This is my first strut rebuild so with the big truck springs, the extra clamp can't hurt. I found a really good step by step online with great photos. They are from an outfit rhat sells lift kits. Disassembly is the same whether you are installing a lift kit or not and reassembly is the same, less the spacer. All torque specs are given. I'll go find the link if somebody wants it.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Post a link, couldn’t hurt.

Also, is the link/info for Gen 3 or 4 Rams?
 

Skyjockey

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I started to do mine and got to the part with the spring compressor. Mine is too small, wont fit over the coils. Shocks been in garage for 5 years now lol. I went to a local shop and they said 250 installed but when I asked about an alignment they said I don't need one?? I never went back. Haven't read many good things about borrowing the auto part stores compressor. Whats a good one to buy?
 

shadowhawk

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I started to do mine and got to the part with the spring compressor. Mine is too small, wont fit over the coils. Shocks been in garage for 5 years now lol. I went to a local shop and they said 250 installed but when I asked about an alignment they said I don't need one?? I never went back. Haven't read many good things about borrowing the auto part stores compressor. Whats a good one to buy?

You can usually "borrow" one from your local parts stores for a small refundable deposit.
 

Purplert

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I’d always just borrow one from the local part store.. I don’t use one often enough to warrant buying one.


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Rader

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I started to do mine and got to the part with the spring compressor. Mine is too small, wont fit over the coils. Shocks been in garage for 5 years now lol. I went to a local shop and they said 250 installed but when I asked about an alignment they said I don't need one?? I never went back. Haven't read many good things about borrowing the auto part stores compressor. Whats a good one to buy?

My spring compressor was marginal to scary for truck springs so I took my struts to a tire shop that had a safety shielded wall mounted spring compressor. They disassembled the struts and reassembled them in about 20 minutes and charged me $30.00. Also you will definitely need an alignment, the lift changes the suspension's geometry, and puts camber far out of specs.
 
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shadowhawk

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My spring compressor was marginal to scary for truck springs so I took my struts to a tire shop that had a safety shielded wall mounted spring compressor. They disassembled the struts and reassembled them in about 20 minutes and charged me $30.00. Also you will definitely need an alignment, the lift changes the suspension's geometry, and puts camber far out of specs.

This is also a great way to do that upgrade. You must have a second vehicle to get to the shop though :)
 
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