rear end help PLEASE

[M&Ms4D]

Hello, I'm new to this forum. I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 that has been making a whining/growling sound from the rear end. This past weekend we took it apart and found it to be that my pinion bearings were shot (both the inner and outer had huge burs in the bearings). I plan on replacing the 2 pinion bearings (which are both shot), the 2 differential/carrier bearings, the 2 wheel bearings by the wheels, pinion seal, and crush sleeve while I have it torn down.

However, I am having the hardest time finding information online with rebuilding specs. If anyone could give me any idea on torque specs or anything form a service manual that could help me on my rebuild i would extremely appreciate it.

 

[CKH]

If you are ordering a master bearing kit, the torque specs will be listed in the booklet that comes with the kit.

I recently rebuilt my 9.25 and I found that the dodge factory spec is slightly different than what the bearing manufacturers have in their books.

For instance, this is a Dodge spec for the pinion preload:

Using Yoke Holder 6719, crush collapsible spacer until bearing end play is taken up.
Slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until the desired rotating torque is achieved. Measure the rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing the collapsible spacer.
Check bearing rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench The torque necessary to rotate the pinion gear should be:

Original Bearings - 1 to 3 N·m (10 to 20 in. lbs.)
New Bearings - 2 to 5 N·m (15 to 35 in. lbs.)

Meanwhile, the book I received with my bearing kit said the pinion preload should be:

Original Bearings 6-9 in lbs
New bearings 14-19 in lbs

Also, Dodge spec on the carrier side adjusters is 75 ft lbs, everyone else recommends at least 150 ft lbs. For my bearing set, it was recommended 150-200 ft lbs.

The bearing cap bolts should be tightened to 100 ft lbs.

Backlash should be .006-.010

I set my pinion preload to within the dodge factory spec, ended up with it at 25 in lbs. I torqued the side adjustors for the carrier to 150 ft lbs.

 

[CKH]

I also found it much easier to go with a solid spacer kit from Yukon instead of dorking around with the crush sleeve. It comes with a spacer and shims, you install the spacer and adjust the shim stack until you get your desired pinion preload. Yukon recommended a pinion nut torque between 200-300 ft lbs. The Ratech kit is basically the same thing and recommends 125 ft lbs on the pinion nut.

Hope this info helps you out.

 

[M&Ms4D]

Thank you for the info CKH!

 

[Redtruck-VA]

The problem I see with the solid crush collar is it needs to be shimmed "dead on" to get the preload and torsional load correct. I have not used one, but the crush collar is straight forward install following normal install instructions.

 

[CKH]

It's really not that difficult. For me, it was just the spacer and the thinnest shim that put me within spec. Measuring the crush sleeve that comes off the pinion with a micrometer will get you very close to where you need to be on first assembly with the spacer and shims.

 

[M&Ms4D]

UPDATE- I just want to give thanks for all help, we installed new national pinion bearings, national carrier bearings, new pinion seal and new crush sleeve last weekend. I have driven over 200 miles and everything is smooth as silk so far!

 

[Brakelate]

Curious: How many miles on the truck? I have an '07 also and am wondering.

EDIT: Found your other "oil" thread. 100k miles.

Did you do a lot of heavy hauling with your truck? Mine is fine for now, but just rolled over 100k miles on it as well and am curious as to what might go first.

 

[M&Ms4D]

No not really most of my miles are highway miles, not heavy hauling. My rear end bearing failure was most likely from lack of maintenance on my part, so I would def advise to change your diff fluid at the proper intervals b/c i never did.

 

[Brakelate]

I never have serviced the Rear End.

Hmm.