Rear end noise.

[Racer9]

This past summer/fall my truck has developed a sort of rumbling rear end noise, which has gotten worse. It doesn't always happen, and usually doesn't happen until after driving a while, then sitting for a half hour or so. Usually while turning such as leaving a parking lot, under light acceleration. We took a ride and then got ice cream one night, and when we left it was bad enough that my wife asked if we would make it home. Occasionally I get a steady thump, like a bad tire, when backing into my paved, slight upgrade, driveway. Tires appear good, but I haven't spun them to check for wobbles. The ABS light comes on intermittently, seems like mostly after a tight turn.
I had a true trac installed this past spring and rebuilt the entire differential at that time. 75w90 Valvoline fluid.
I just pulled the rear cover to check it out and found nothing. No filings, chunks, or shiny pieces in the oil, or bottom of the housing, nothing seemed out of order. The only thing I can find is some up and down play in the wheel bearings. The truck has only 66k miles, seems to be early for wheel bearings, but if that fixes it, I'm all in.

 

[jws123]

add a bit more friction modifier to your gear oil? not sure about true trac tho.

 

[Wild one]

This past summer/fall my truck has developed a sort of rumbling rear end noise, which has gotten worse. It doesn't always happen, and usually doesn't happen until after driving a while, then sitting for a half hour or so. Usually while turning such as leaving a parking lot, under light acceleration. We took a ride and then got ice cream one night, and when we left it was bad enough that my wife asked if we would make it home. Occasionally I get a steady thump, like a bad tire, when backing into my paved, slight upgrade, driveway. Tires appear good, but I haven't spun them to check for wobbles. The ABS light comes on intermittently, seems like mostly after a tight turn.
I had a true trac installed this past spring and rebuilt the entire differential at that time. 75w90 Valvoline fluid.
I just pulled the rear cover to check it out and found nothing. No filings, chunks, or shiny pieces in the oil, or bottom of the housing, nothing seemed out of order. The only thing I can find is some up and down play in the wheel bearings. The truck has only 66k miles, seems to be early for wheel bearings, but if that fixes it, I'm all in.

Your truck calls for 75W-140,and i wouldn't be using a synthetic with a true trac,but it's your truck and rear diff. If you reused the bearings and races you didn't "completely" rebuild it did you,lol

 

[Racer9]

The only bearings that were re-used were the wheel bearings, the entire center is all new bearings.
But it looks like I need a different lube, non-syn at least.
I am going to replace the wheel bearings either way, just because of the play.
This truck will be stored after the end of the week, so I probably won't do the changes until spring.
Thanks for the help.

 

[Wild one]

The only bearings that were re-used were the wheel bearings, the entire center is all new bearings.
But it looks like I need a different lube, non-syn at least.
I am going to replace the wheel bearings either way, just because of the play.
This truck will be stored after the end of the week, so I probably won't do the changes until spring.
Thanks for the help.

Not sure why you didn't replace the outer wheel bearings while the axles were out,especially if you were paying a shop to do the true trac install,as now you have to disassemble the brakes all over again. While you have it all apart again,make sure they clean up and lube the parking brake assembly

 

[DILLIGAF]

What does your gear pattern look like? Start there just to be sure, check B.L and pinion pre-load while in there as well.

Those are the first 3 things I check.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I'd check the front wheel bearings too. I'd check them first..simply b/c a lift up/down on a hoist takes seconds. Sometimes they can fool ya. Have ya ever assumed you knew what the problem was ...and it turned out to be something else (that ya didn't bother to look at? LOL). And then there's the front diff coupler and bearing on the pass side (front) which can be problematic. U-joints too..for the heck of it. These are all common fail points on Rams.

I would check all that stuff before tearing into the rear end. I probably wouldn't have replaced the wheel bearings at that time either unless there was something to indicate they were scored/pitted or weak looking. Or....if you race the truck. OEM wheel bearings can go 300k+ miles in many cases, but yeah...you never know. And if one failed, was it b/c some tech didn't clean crud off the axle? Or slid it in on the bearings hap hazardly (loading it up with axle goo)? A little up/down on the rear wheel bearings isn't un-normal for an almost 70k mi Tk. It depends on what "a little" actually is. Definitely inspect. Yes, it could definitely be the rear diff/bearings or locker, but approach it like yer not sure because other issues could be at play...so someone doesn't waste time/money.

Let us know what the problem turns out to be..

 

[09SilverRam]

Not sure why you didn't replace the outer wheel bearings while the axles were out,especially if you were paying a shop to do the true trac install,as now you have to disassemble the brakes all over again. While you have it all apart again,make sure they clean up and lube the parking brake assembly

And getting the c clips through the little hole in the truetrac doesn’t look as easy as an open carrier.

 

[DILLIGAF]

And getting the c clips through the little hole in the truetrac doesn’t look as easy as an open carrier.

They fall right into place.

 

[Racer9]

Not sure why you didn't replace the outer wheel bearings while the axles were out,especially if you were paying a shop to do the true trac install,as now you have to disassemble the brakes all over again. While you have it all apart again,make sure they clean up and lube the parking brake assembly

Since wheel bearings are rarely an issue, at least in my experience, I never even considered them.
I actually had a very experienced friend do it, I assisted.
Since I had it all apart when I did the lowering kit, I lubed the brake mechanisms up then, and I only have 4-5 thousand miles on it since then.
It's not that bad to pull the rear brakes, I just remove the 2 mounting bracket bolts and take it all off at once. The axle will come out with the e-brake still on there.

What does your gear pattern look like? Start there just to be sure, check B.L and pinion pre-load while in there as well.

Those are the first 3 things I check.

Pattern looks good.

I'd check the front wheel bearings too. I'd check them first..simply b/c a lift up/down on a hoist takes seconds. Sometimes they can fool ya. Have ya ever assumed you knew what the problem was ...and it turned out to be something else (that ya didn't bother to look at? LOL). And then there's the front diff coupler and bearing on the pass side (front) which can be problematic. U-joints too..for the heck of it. These are all common fail points on Rams.

I would check all that stuff before tearing into the rear end. I probably wouldn't have replaced the wheel bearings at that time either unless there was something to indicate they were scored/pitted or weak looking. Or....if you race the truck. OEM wheel bearings can go 300k+ miles in many cases, but yeah...you never know. And if one failed, was it b/c some tech didn't clean crud off the axle? Or slid it in on the bearings hap hazardly (loading it up with axle goo)? A little up/down on the rear wheel bearings isn't un-normal for an almost 70k mi Tk. It depends on what "a little" actually is. Definitely inspect. Yes, it could definitely be the rear diff/bearings or locker, but approach it like yer not sure because other issues could be at play...so someone doesn't waste time/money.

Let us know what the problem turns out to be..

2WD. I checked the front wheel bearings also, no play, no odd sounds or rumbling feel when spinning.

And getting the c clips through the little hole in the truetrac doesn’t look as easy as an open carrier.

It's not really that bad. Keeping the puck in there and trying to get the round cover and c-clip in is another story.


I'm going to do the wheel bearings and switch to non-synthetic lube in the spring. The truck won't be driven again until then anyway.

 

[Harry molar]

Any more info on what happened .Today it Dec 30th . My 2009 1500 ram makes sounds too.

 

[GTyankee]

When my 4th Gen Ram 1500 Rear Differential was running without fluid, ( dealership screw up )

The rear differential sounded like 2 metal pipes, 1 inside of the other, with the inside pipe being rotated.
the faster that i went, it sounded like the inside pipe was being turned faster.

To tell the truth, i was worried for over 200 miles that i drove that late night to get back into town