Problem solved. I was having the same problem with my 2011 ram 1500 4.7 liter truck. My truck only has a little over 28,000 miles on it and was running perfectly when I shut it down the last time for the summer. My indicator lights showed the infamous red lightning bolt on the dash along with other lights so I figured the battery was low, but it was OK. I checked out several leads from links on the internet but nothing helped. I had checked out all the fuses and reseated all the relays in the fuse box and I was about to try out some other leads from the internet when I got the idea to test the identical relays in the fuse box by exchanging their locations two at a time ( since I did not have a way to test them out of circuit ). There are eight small ones that are identical ( Omron 68083380AA ) and then there are two larger ones that are identical. ( If you look at the inside cover of the fuse box it shows the location of all the relays and fuses and what they are used for. However it's very difficult to see this on the inside of the cover since it's black on black, so you would want to use your cell phone and take a few pictures at different angles that you can look at with much more scrutiny.) I started with relay # 4 and relay #9 since they were closest together. it turns out that relay number 4 (it's for the run/start circuit) and relay #9 was for the HVAC fan motor in the dash. I jumped in the truck and lo and behold it started right up as if nothing was wrong and the fan motor in the dash for the AC did not run. That was my problem. Now I have to go get a new relay for the heater fan circuit in the dash. I will be getting two of these relays so that I will have a spare one in the glove compartment at all times. Since they are only about $25 apiece and easy to change out, what a great item to have if you run into problems on the road especially since they use eight of them in the fuse box for various Circuits. I followed a lot of the links online that pertained to intermittent starting problems and run problems. I'm thinking a lot of these problems could be linked to relays that develop faults in them overtime that are intermittent. They are typically made with a fine copper wire wrapped around a tube to make an electromagnet. Inside the tube there's a metal insert that gets pulled up into the tube when the relay coil is energized. When this metal insert moves, it mechanically moves the switch inside the relay to make the connection that they want to use for the function it is designed. Over time this thin copper wire could develop a hairline fracture somewhere in its length that could make the solenoid not energize at all (all the time)(MY CASE) or it could be a case of making the connection intermittently based on the outside temperature, vibration while driving the car, or just energizeing it ( as in turning the key to start could make the starter solenoid click but before the starter can engage to start the car the relay coil faults open and the fusebox relay drops out stopping the whole process ). If some of these relays become intermittent they may cause some check engine codes to be thrown which could lead to incurring extra costs that are not needed. Just a thought.........for some of the hard to explain situations, 3 new relays for $75 for the do it yourself guys could save $$$.
P.S. The Relay with the "black X" on it is the bad relay after it was moved to the R9 position.