Red Lightning Bolt on dash

[John Huffman]

Good morning. I have searched on the forum for red lightning bolt issues and although there are plenty, I could find none for my particular problems. I just recently started getting the bolt. The truck runs fine when it pops up but it will not shift into overdrive and cruise control will not turn on. Twice now, I have shut the truck off for a few minutes and started it back up and no issues, until this last time. The first bump I hit made it come back on.
Unlike so many others on here, I do not get a check engine light or any other lights. Just the red bolt. Any good ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[MADDOG]

Get the PCM scanned for fault codes. That will give you a good idea of what to focus on.

I suspect it's the Electronic Throttle Control.

 

[Str13alex]

The lightning bolt on the dash means that there is a problem with the electronic throttle control system in your vehicle. The light may be on for a glitch and the electronic throttle control system needs to be reset.

 

[John Huffman]

The lightning bolt on the dash means that there is a problem with the electronic throttle control system in your vehicle. The light may be on for a glitch and the electronic throttle control system needs to be reset.

Is there a special procedure for that or just disconnect the battery? Thanks.

 

[Str13alex]

To reset the electronic throttle control system, perform the following:

1. Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" position but do not start the engine
2. Wait for all the warning lights to go out. The check engine light may remain on.
3. Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
4. Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it is all the way back up at the rest position.
5. Turn the ignition key to "OFF" position.
6. Start the engine and test the throttle by see if the engine will throttle up.

Try it. Also do let me know the result.

 

[Ryan89]

I installed a new throttle body because I had the lightning bolt come on and through a code for it and had same thing happen again any ideas on what to do next thanks

 

[GTyankee]

When it comes to any electrical issue, such as the
electronic throttle control system Lightning Bolt

Don't just start buying replacement parts

Most chain type Auto Parts Stores will connect up a Scan Tool for FREE
That scan tool will usually find a OBD2 Fault Code, like a Letter & 4 numbers
When you google that Fault Code number,
it may be something like P2175. or something similar
Then there will be possibly reasons for the issue
Then a possible method of repair

 

[moparmadhatter]

I installed a new throttle body because I had the lightning bolt come on and through a code for it and had same thing happen again any ideas on what to do next thanks

Im pretty sure its the accelerator pedal sensor. Im having the same problem too. I rebuilt the top end camshaft, lifters, injectors, lapped the valves, oil pump, timing set. The throttle body checked out its still good. Only codes came up after rebuild was O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 an that was on before the rebuild too. Drove it 3k miles with it goin into limp mode and stalling out but it started to not accelerate an gas pedal is all the way to floor with truck running like it has a high lift cam rpm just fluctuating between 500 an 1500 rpm then stalls. Still not throwing a code other than that o2. I forgot where i found it at but it stalling an going into limp mode its the accelerator pedal position sensor(apps).I looked all over for that part a genuine mopar part no luck, called up local dodge dealer for the part an they said Chrysler doesn't supply it anymore. They gave me a part number but didn't match up to what was on the truck nor internet search. i did find it for a Mercedes-Benz. Part number is 0125423317 on ebay. The apps is located underneath the battery tray. Its easy to get to if you remove the inner fender splash shield. Look below in pictures. Be careful when removing apps from housing springs will try flying out the bottom. I'll be ordering that part an im hoping this is what fixes that stall. Ill keep you updated when i can.

 

[Recoil]

Yeah, the original part is MB. Make sure to pay attention to the pin layout to make sure you get one that matches your plug.

 

[Vanhalen1979]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I'm looking for ideas on where to start... Red lightning bolt on the dash. Only symptoms I've experienced is occasional sputtering at a stop, and going up a hill, the truck didn't know what gear it wanted to be in. (Never tried to see if the cruise was operating.) The onboard diagnosis doesn't show any related codes, just ones related to the cooling system that needs repaired. I was about to get a throttle body, but I don't want to throw expensive parts at it blindly. Everything is original, 2006 Ram 1500, 190.5K. I appreciate any help. Thanks!

 

[Wisco420]

Good morning. I have searched on the forum for red lightning bolt issues and although there are plenty, I could find none for my particular problems. I just recently started getting the bolt. The truck runs fine when it pops up but it will not shift into overdrive and cruise control will not turn on. Twice now, I have shut the truck off for a few minutes and started it back up and no issues, until this last time. The first bump I hit made it come back on.
Unlike so many others on here, I do not get a check engine light or any other lights. Just the red bolt. Any good ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Wisco420]

Dunno if it helps but I was having the same issue with the lightning bolt on dash.. shut my truck off and back on and it was fine for a bit.. cleaned map sensors, replaced throttle body, cleaned the air intake temp sensor and still nothing kept doing it... well low and behold when I replaced a negative terminal I clumped all of my wires together on the clamp thinking they all go there anyway and it wouldn't harm anything.. I bought a new top post terminal that separates all of the wires and cleaned the positive terminal that's on the underbelly of the battery and haven't had a problem since.. dunno if it was a mixture of the two but haven't had it pop on since and this is day 3... hope this helps at all as I was so stumped and pissed off over this damn issue lol

 

[Wisco420]

Also u can get a throttle body on Amazon for 60 bucks... mine was completely gummed up and the harness was cracked and needing replaced anyway... these parts definitely DO wear out fast doesn't hurt to try

 

[Wisco420]

Im pretty sure its the accelerator pedal sensor. Im having the same problem too. I rebuilt the top end camshaft, lifters, injectors, lapped the valves, oil pump, timing set. The throttle body checked out its still good. Only codes came up after rebuild was O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 an that was on before the rebuild too. Drove it 3k miles with it goin into limp mode and stalling out but it started to not accelerate an gas pedal is all the way to floor with truck running like it has a high lift cam rpm just fluctuating between 500 an 1500 rpm then stalls. Still not throwing a code other than that o2. I forgot where i found it at but it stalling an going into limp mode its the accelerator pedal position sensor(apps).I looked all over for that part a genuine mopar part no luck, called up local dodge dealer for the part an they said Chrysler doesn't supply it anymore. They gave me a part number but didn't match up to what was on the truck nor internet search. i did find it for a Mercedes-Benz. Part number is 0125423317 on ebay. The apps is located underneath the battery tray. Its easy to get to if you remove the inner fender splash shield. Look below in pictures. Be careful when removing apps from housing springs will try flying out the bottom. I'll be ordering that part an im hoping this is what fixes that stall. Ill keep you updated when i can.View attachment 469063View attachment 469068View attachment 469069

Did it fix ur problem?? Can't find this damn part anywhere.. any more pics of plug size and other sides and dimensions

 

[Wisco420]

Dunno if it helps but I was having the same issue with the lightning bolt on dash.. shut my truck off and back on and it was fine for a bit.. cleaned map sensors, replaced throttle body, cleaned the air intake temp sensor and still nothing kept doing it... well low and behold when I replaced a negative terminal I clumped all of my wires together on the clamp thinking they all go there anyway and it wouldn't harm anything.. I bought a new top post terminal that separates all of the wires and cleaned the positive terminal that's on the underbelly of the battery and haven't had a problem since.. dunno if it was a mixture of the two but haven't had it pop on since and this is day 3... hope this helps at all as I was so stumped and pissed off over this damn issue lol

Didn't help doing it all over again.. now developing a hard clunk up front drivers side... I'm about done with dodge alltogether

 

[dieseldoctor03]

I really want to see if moparmadhatter's fix works. That where I was pointed next. My truck only does it under cold conditions. No issues all summer and fall til first cold. I stumbled on a tsb for cold start issues and it's a pcm reprogram. I need to see about having it done.

 

[Wisco420]

Good morning. I have searched on the forum for red lightning bolt issues and although there are plenty, I could find none for my particular problems. I just recently started getting the bolt. The truck runs fine when it pops up but it will not shift into overdrive and cruise control will not turn on. Twice now, I have shut the truck off for a few minutes and started it back up and no issues, until this last time. The first bump I hit made it come back on.
Unlike so many others on here, I do not get a check engine light or any other lights. Just the red bolt. Any good ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.

I had a clogged intake manifold... good place to check... the back egr valve I believe

 

[Wisco420]

Didn't help doing it all over again.. now developing a hard clunk up front drivers side... I'm about done with dodge alltogether

Solve the lightning bolt issue My intake manifold had a completely gummed up EGR valve I believe Cleaned it out when I was changing the intake manifold gasket and haven't had a problem since

 

[Robert Perkins]

Problem solved. I was having the same problem with my 2011 ram 1500 4.7 liter truck. My truck only has a little over 28,000 miles on it and was running perfectly when I shut it down the last time for the summer. My indicator lights showed the infamous red lightning bolt on the dash along with other lights so I figured the battery was low, but it was OK. I checked out several leads from links on the internet but nothing helped. I had checked out all the fuses and reseated all the relays in the fuse box and I was about to try out some other leads from the internet when I got the idea to test the identical relays in the fuse box by exchanging their locations two at a time ( since I did not have a way to test them out of circuit ). There are eight small ones that are identical ( Omron 68083380AA ) and then there are two larger ones that are identical. ( If you look at the inside cover of the fuse box it shows the location of all the relays and fuses and what they are used for. However it's very difficult to see this on the inside of the cover since it's black on black, so you would want to use your cell phone and take a few pictures at different angles that you can look at with much more scrutiny.) I started with relay # 4 and relay #9 since they were closest together. it turns out that relay number 4 (it's for the run/start circuit) and relay #9 was for the HVAC fan motor in the dash. I jumped in the truck and lo and behold it started right up as if nothing was wrong and the fan motor in the dash for the AC did not run. That was my problem. Now I have to go get a new relay for the heater fan circuit in the dash. I will be getting two of these relays so that I will have a spare one in the glove compartment at all times. Since they are only about $25 apiece and easy to change out, what a great item to have if you run into problems on the road especially since they use eight of them in the fuse box for various Circuits. I followed a lot of the links online that pertained to intermittent starting problems and run problems. I'm thinking a lot of these problems could be linked to relays that develop faults in them overtime that are intermittent. They are typically made with a fine copper wire wrapped around a tube to make an electromagnet. Inside the tube there's a metal insert that gets pulled up into the tube when the relay coil is energized. When this metal insert moves, it mechanically moves the switch inside the relay to make the connection that they want to use for the function it is designed. Over time this thin copper wire could develop a hairline fracture somewhere in its length that could make the solenoid not energize at all (all the time)(MY CASE) or it could be a case of making the connection intermittently based on the outside temperature, vibration while driving the car, or just energizeing it ( as in turning the key to start could make the starter solenoid click but before the starter can engage to start the car the relay coil faults open and the fusebox relay drops out stopping the whole process ). If some of these relays become intermittent they may cause some check engine codes to be thrown which could lead to incurring extra costs that are not needed. Just a thought.........for some of the hard to explain situations, 3 new relays for $75 for the do it yourself guys could save $$$.
P.S. The Relay with the "black X" on it is the bad relay after it was moved to the R9 position.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Just wanted to add my two cents after experiencing this yesterday. I forgot the keys in my truck in the run position and killed my battery (dead dead, AGM won't take a charge). After replacing the battery I started the vehicle and it had a very high pulsating idle with a check engine light and a flashing red lightning bolt in parenthesis on the cluster. In my case, all I needed to do was the aforementioned throttle/gas pedal calibration and all was well. I'm still waiting for the check engine light to disappear which sometimes takes several power cycles in my truck.