With vehicle securely supported with tires off the ground and in neutral, I like to pull the diff cover first so it can be draining. I then remove the wheels and drums - while the axle can usually be removed with the wheel and drum attached, it's just easier to handle in pieces. Once I have the wheels/drums off, I rotate the ring gear so I can access the cross pin and the pin retaining bolt - it usually has a 5/16" hex head and threads in from the pass side of vehicle to retain the cross pin. Once the retaining pin is out, the cross pin can be removed - I try to push it out from the pinion side of the carrier so it comes towards you. Try not to rotate the axles or the side and spider gears can roll out and will need to be re-installed. Once the cross pin is out, you can push the axles in about a 1/2" - at this point the c-clips will either just fall out or can be remove with a small magnet. With the clips out, the axles can be removed. Reverse process to install. I shove the axles in all the way, put some bearing grease on the c-clip to help hold it in the axle groove and then push the axle out, making sure the c-clip drops into the side gear. Probably a You Tue video on it. Pretty much the same process for 8 1/4" Mopar, 8.8" Fords, and GM 10 and 12 bolts. Be warned - it is reasonably common for the end of the cross pin retaining bolt to be broken off and stay in the carrier, which stops the cross pin from coming out. At that point removal is a crapshoot. Good luck with your repair. Willie.