Rustproofing

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Jasfish18

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I've read several posts on the and have alot of good info.
I plan on getting woolwax pro gun and woolwax for the undercarriage and corrosion free for the door panels pillars etc. I've heard that woolwax clings better than the rest. But anyone has any reason I should do all woolwax or all corrosion free I would love to hear them! And was thinking straw color and maybe grabbing a spray can of black for spot treating?
Maybe I'm overthinking it lol
 

Zoe Saldana

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I've read several posts on the and have alot of good info.
I plan on getting woolwax pro gun and woolwax for the undercarriage and corrosion free for the door panels pillars etc. I've heard that woolwax clings better than the rest. But anyone has any reason I should do all woolwax or all corrosion free I would love to hear them! And was thinking straw color and maybe grabbing a spray can of black for spot treating?
Maybe I'm overthinking it lol

I'd get all of the Black Woolwax for spraying so you can see where you sprayed and where it wore off.

I think Woolwax and Fluid Film cling the same.

Watch some Youtube vids aon the application.

Also, in Michigan you might find someone to do it the first time and then you can do it yourself in the future.
 

18CrewDually

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Black is a mess. If your chassis and body is clean and free of rust now and you're not trying to "hide" anything with black, then I'd do the straw. I personally use Fluid Film. I tried the black on my new to me 2003 pre-rusted Tacoma and the black gets everywhere everytime your under the truck. My 2018 Ram when it was new got the straw treatment and I have no regrets. I used the extension wand that has a reverse jet that sprays it every direction and did all the holes and crevices especially doors and rockers. I think I used 3-4 cans. Aft rear axle seems to be the best area to concentrate on spraying since that's where I've seen vehicles have the biggest issue with rust.
But if you don't work on your own vehicle and want to **** of your mechanic by all means, use the black. :)
 

Jeepwalker

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Good idea. It'll really preserve your truck. Make sure you really get the obvious areas.

Rockers
Cab corners
Front fender
Door bottoms
Rear wheel wells
Front & rear of box
Fender (above the "Hemi" badge)
Gas tank support
Inside frame
Etc

There's a sound deadener pad on higher trim trucks (reportedly not Tradesmans) above the Hemi badge. Either scrape that off or grease the HECK out of it. My neighbors truck is developing a hole here.

09_202744_fdd801aba654205812fc38f12a91a73081268087.jpg
 

GTyankee

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Ram submerges all of the sheet metal in a liquid bath

that is done before the frame, wiring or anything else is attached to the body.
After it dries, then it goes into the paint tunnel

You may have noticed, the under body, is not painted, any paint under there is from over spray


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MICRO CHIP shortage


“The defects in the trucks [are] above unacceptable and absenteeism is at 15%. They are giving us until March to decrease absenteeism and increase quality. If this is not improved significantly, the company is not willing to allocate any future products to Warren Truck.”
 
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quickster2

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Good idea. It'll really preserve your truck. Make sure you really get the obvious areas.

Rockers
Cab corners
Front fender
Door bottoms
Rear wheel wells
Front & rear of box
Fender (above the "Hemi" badge)
Gas tank support
Inside frame
Etc

There's a sound deadener pad on higher trim trucks (reportedly not Tradesmans) above the Hemi badge. Either scrape that off or grease the HECK out of it. My neighbors truck is developing a hole here.

View attachment 526435
Also pull the rear tail lights out and spray between the inner and outer panel. Soak it real good. As you mentioned, spray past the foam stuffer in the front wheel well as well.
 

Zoe Saldana

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Black is a mess. If your chassis and body is clean and free of rust now and you're not trying to "hide" anything with black, then I'd do the straw. I personally use Fluid Film. I tried the black on my new to me 2003 pre-rusted Tacoma and the black gets everywhere everytime your under the truck. My 2018 Ram when it was new got the straw treatment and I have no regrets. I used the extension wand that has a reverse jet that sprays it every direction and did all the holes and crevices especially doors and rockers. I think I used 3-4 cans. Aft rear axle seems to be the best area to concentrate on spraying since that's where I've seen vehicles have the biggest issue with rust.
But if you don't work on your own vehicle and want to **** of your mechanic by all means, use the black. :)

Black is just a coloring. If the Black is a mess so is the non black. Black isn't to hide anything; it just is easier to see where you sprayed.
 

18CrewDually

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Black is just a coloring. If the Black is a mess so is the non black. Black isn't to hide anything; it just is easier to see where you sprayed.
You can't change my personal experience. :)
The carbon black material that is in the formula is a mess and ends up all over the place. For example like I said I used it on my Toyota, which two months later I had an evap leak. That black crap was all over my arms and clothing. You do not need black to see where it is sprayed, the wheat color is fine and will appear wet indicating where it is applied. The wheat also doesn't show on my concrete driveway like the black did. The black does hide and cover up rust, there's no denying that. On a clean vehicle it is not necessary.
Again, this is my personal experience.
 

Jeepwalker

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Also pull the rear tail lights out and spray between the inner and outer panel. Soak it real good. As you mentioned, spray past the foam stuffer in the front wheel well as well.

Good idea.

In addition ...a guy can literally spray/sqirt oil by shooting it up from the front-side of the rear wheels. There's good access there. Unfortunately thats where a lot of the rocks debris and sand get into the rear wheel wells too.

I personally would recommend (and I know everyone who's never done the job is going to disagree with me here) ...but I would recommend spraying a diluted mixture of oil over the rear wheel wells. Fluid film around the rest of the trucck. For the simple reason that oil is less viscous and will penetrate the pieces of metal better. Let's analyze what's going on over the ram wheel wells and I think you'll better understand. (see the cross-section of the inner/outer panels, illustration I made below).

#1. Sheet metal contours: You have the outer body sheet metal and an inner body sheet metal.
#2. There is a narrow gap between them in places...~ 1/8" Little rocks & stones love to get lodged in this region. They build up over time. I cleaned them out of my trucks wheel wells and got probably a cup of debris or more out of each side.
#3. Ram applied a sealant on the lip (seam) where the inner and outer panels meet, and THEN spot welded them together. That's going to block any oil from penetrating the lip, unless there's an imperfection in their sealant. A thinner product might find a way to the other side ...that's the "hope". Definitely fluid film won't.
#4. Fluid film and other similar products set up firm. That's not really what you want over the rear wheel wells to get 'drawn' pas the sealant between the upper area and the lip. Setting up firm is also going to 'catch & hold' any small stones or debris that bounced up into that gap in the upcoming years. That's my thought anyway. A thinner product will allow you to clean the stones & debris out in a couple years and re-oil.
#5. A few years down the road, you can spray and easily remove build-up debris from an oiled area, ..whereas the fluid film creates a nasty gooier mess. I guess if you look at it as a 5 year fix, the fluid film is ok. If you're looking at it as a 20 year job, use the oil, and re-apply periodically.
#6. You need to apply fluid/oil to BOTH SIDES of the inner and outer panels.
#7. You should park the truck on an angle overnight ...or 2 days...and squirt oil on the wheel SEAM and let gravity and capilary action draw oil INTO the seam overnight...or two days.
Dodge Ram Real Wheel Lip Cross Section.png

At the bare minimum, just shoot some oil from the gap at the front-side of rear wheels. You can do this w/o even removing the plastic inner fender liners (which is kind of a bugger by the way).

Good luck
 

caulk04

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Don't overthink it.

I've moved away from Fluid Film to a product called Protection First Class PFC. Might not be widely available, seems local to me. I like it because it's easier to get into the sprayer tank and flows into spots better but isn't so runny that it falls off like used oil.

Exposed areas and high wash areas are going to get blasted off no matter what product you use but that's not really a concern. It's all the places that are hidden that will be the problem.
 

62Blazer

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I use Woolwax, no other reason than they had a good deal on a kit that included the spray guy, several different wands, and several containers of the material. I'm happy with the way the gun works and the material has coated the truck. Did the first application about 2 years ago and spent several hours spraying inside the body panels and thoroughly coating everything. Mainly go back and touch up spots whenever I'm working on the truck. Started with the original straw color but also got a container of black. It's pretty easy to see where the straw color material is applied and use that for all the inside body panels and other places you can't easily see. I then use the black sparingly to coat parts of the frame, axles, etc... that you can see simply for cosmetics.
Never did rust protection on my previous truck, but did try to clean it fairly clean and sprayed off underneath, but it still basically died from rust. The body didn't look bad but started having multiple mechanical issues from rust. Brake lines, fuel lines, shifter linkages rusting apart, diff cover and trans pan leaking from rust, etc.... Determined to not let my current truck have the same fate.
The first application is the most time consuming making sure you get a good coating on everything. Most of that is coating places you don't regularly see, and where rust normally starts (rust from the inside out!). After you get inside the rockers, fenders, etc... coated good the first time it's a lot quicker to touch them up afterwards. The only place the material does not stay on well are places on the underbody that see a lot of road spray. Because of that not too worried about inside the fenders and such since really not much to wash the material away.
 
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Jasfish18

Jasfish18

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Good info guys thanks!
After doing the rockers it seems doubtful any of that tape would say on. Are you guys finding a way to cover them back up? Or leave them open
 

18CrewDually

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My tape for the most part stayed on, just a couple corners curled but it was like that from the beginning. On the RV I've used black Gorilla tape and it holds very well. Just clean the surface where you want it to stick and it bonds good.
 

Travelin Ram

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Good info guys thanks!
After doing the rockers it seems doubtful any of that tape would say on. Are you guys finding a way to cover them back up? Or leave them open
I removed all the cheap factory tape and replaced it with eternabond tape. That will last forever. Just be sure to clean the surface where it’s adhered.
 

srv1

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Good info guys thanks!
After doing the rockers it seems doubtful any of that tape would say on. Are you guys finding a way to cover them back up? Or leave them open
I used some rectangular magnets I found at hf.They covered the opening perfectly and stay in place.
 

62Blazer

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I used some rectangular magnets I found at hf.They covered the opening perfectly and stay in place.
First time I had heard that suggestion...might have to give it a try.
 
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Jasfish18

Jasfish18

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I peaked under the truck and it isnt deep but the rust was alarming. Guess those catwaahes everytime i drove didnt do as much as i thought!

Price wise fluid film is the clear winner with 5 gal for 175 bucks, 225 for wool wax, and 298 for corrosion free.
Saving a couple of bucks is not the main objective. I'm thinking my plan for corrosion free for doors and panels and woolwax for underneath and wash areas. Woolwax hv for the wheel wells.

Corrosion free is the hardest of the three to find alot of quality information on.

And I haven't counted fluid film out totally, just put of a little by the smell
 

Zoe Saldana

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When I first got my truck, I sprayed all unpained and low paint areas with Rustolium. I also sprayed the quarter pannels.

Then I sprayed it with Fluid Flim.

Another good product is 3M Clear Paint protector. I put it on the lower door frame to stop the paint getting rubbed off by getting in and out. Another area to put it is on the painted areas behind the wheels; if you don't have mud flaps.
 

62Blazer

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I peaked under the truck and it isnt deep but the rust was alarming. Guess those catwaahes everytime i drove didnt do as much as i thought!

Price wise fluid film is the clear winner with 5 gal for 175 bucks, 225 for wool wax, and 298 for corrosion free.
Saving a couple of bucks is not the main objective. I'm thinking my plan for corrosion free for doors and panels and woolwax for underneath and wash areas. Woolwax hv for the wheel wells.

Corrosion free is the hardest of the three to find alot of quality information on.

And I haven't counted fluid film out totally, just put of a little by the smell
From my limited experience using Woolwax, 5 gallons is a LOT of material. I think their website says to expect around 1 gallon per application on a truck. If you do a full application each year that will last you 5 years.
 

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