Suspension Update

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GWOTRGR

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Awhile back, sometime last year (or the year before!) I went down this rabbit hole of trying to “upgrade” my suspension due to the driver side front OEM Shock blowing out just days before a family planned camping trip. Instead of just replacing that shock with the same or even both of the front shocks, I opted to “piece together” what I thought would be an upgrade in ride quality both on and off-road. Initially, as with any large purchase (add in the placebo effect) you want to say and admit that what you did worked and it’s great! Right?

Fast forward a year plus, and transparently, I don’t think I was ever truly happy. In the beginning, maybe it did feel different, smoother, “better”…. But the more I ride in other trucks (stock power wagons, ZR2 2500’s, Raptors), and the more I travel out of state each year multiple times during bow season, I think I was wrong.

Lately, the truck has felt horrible. So much so, I can’t stop looking at Raptors (I know it’s not the same as our Power Wagons and I’ve never really liked them, until now). Do I sacrifice the capabilities of the Power Wagon for a more “comfortable” ride in a go-fast truck that’s mostly pointless for my way of life? Do I trade in the 2020 for a 2024 I just found and start over? Or do I acknowledge that I cut some corners with the previous deep dive, and fix it I took the front Fox 2.0 Remote Resi’s (not from Thuren, they didn’t have them in stock at the time I needed to fix the shock problem) paired with Thurens .5” front coils and rear Fox 2.0’s (non remote resi’s and also not from Thuren) with Thurens rear coils, and the King steering stabilizer from Thuren and put it all together.

Then I replaced the 35” Wildpeak ATW3’s (the new ATW4’s were not yet available when I went into discount tire) with 35 Toyo RT’s. I wanted something more aggressive but not fully mud.

Insert unbelievable road wobble and shaking. Mostly and at first only in the 60MPH range. Insert taking them to another reputable tire shop in hopes they could balance them and fix the “small issue”. Insert an immediate trip out of state. Insert passing the “trial miles” for discount tire to take ownership of “cupped” or bad tires. (Was told 2 of them would not balance and need to be replaced).

Insert last week the front driver side shock blowing out, this time the Fox 2.0 Remote Resi’s. I told myself shortly after doing the “suspension upgrade” that I should have never touched or changed anything unless I was going to drop a complete kit from CJC.

So here I am with 166,000 miles on a 2020 Power Wagon that needs fixed because 1) the front driver shock is blown (again) and 2) I’m no longer happy with the ride.

Lastly, if I do decide to try something else, this is what I’m looking at:

BILSTEIN 5160 0-2″ FRONT AND 0-0.5″ REAR LIFTS SHOCKS FOR 2014-2024 RAM 2500 4WD POWER WAGON​

SKU: 2x25-293432_2x25-293449


Remove Thuren Coils, the Fox Shocks, and put this on with the Factory Coils, take the tires off and except the loss (they only have 15,000 miles) and throw on a new set of tires, and maybe some Carli lifetime ball joints. And have the shop meticulously go over everything to ensure it’s all in spect and aligned etc etc etc
 

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soapy

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I am running the 5160 shocks with stock springs and Thuren front and rear track bars. I am very happy with my setup. I have my truck setup for overlanding with about 1,000 lbs of gear, RTT etc. I am still amazed that I can be running down a dirt road and hit a dip and the truck settles on the first stroke of the shocks, not multiple up and downs. If I were to do anything at this point it would be to add Metal cloak coils on the rear for a little more load capacity. As it is right now I sit level. The metal CLoak 3.5 inch lift coils for the rear are for a regular 2500 so I would end up with a 1 inch or so rear lift and about 600 more capacity. But it rides o good now I would hate to screw it up.
 
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GWOTRGR

GWOTRGR

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I am running the 5160 shocks with stock springs and Thuren front and rear track bars. I am very happy with my setup. I have my truck setup for overlanding with about 1,000 lbs of gear, RTT etc. I am still amazed that I can be running down a dirt road and hit a dip and the truck settles on the first stroke of the shocks, not multiple up and downs. If I were to do anything at this point it would be to add Metal cloak coils on the rear for a little more load capacity. As it is right now I sit level. The metal CLoak 3.5 inch lift coils for the rear are for a regular 2500 so I would end up with a 1 inch or so rear lift and about 600 more capacity. But it rides o good now I would hate to screw it up.
Thanks for this. Did you run the shocks for awhile before the track bars, if so how was it without them and then how did it compare when you added them?

Additionally, have you looked at the rear R2 coils from CJC?
 

soapy

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I added the shocks and rear track bar at the same time. I was experiencing the rear end "waggle" as it is called when carrying a load. That completely went away after adding the shocks and rear track bar. I have considered the R2 coils but I think I like the concept of the metal cloak springs progressive rate springs. The Metal Cloak springs can be had for around $300 if you get them on sale, $400 regular price. When you get the shocks I would add the billet aluminum reservoir mount for the rear shocks. I think the fronts come with it and the rear do not.
 
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GWOTRGR

GWOTRGR

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I added the shocks and rear track bar at the same time. I was experiencing the rear end "waggle" as it is called when carrying a load. That completely went away after adding the shocks and rear track bar. I have considered the R2 coils but I think I like the concept of the metal cloak springs progressive rate springs. The Metal Cloak springs can be had for around $300 if you get them on sale, $400 regular price. When you get the shocks I would add the billet aluminum reservoir mount for the rear shocks. I think the fronts come with it and the rear do not.

Can you send pictures of your front and rear shock setup? I’m trying to get as much info ahead of time as possible. I watched a YouTube video of a guy installing these on his power wagon and the rears were mounted “upside down” with the reservoirs attached to the main shock on the bottom?

Side Note, I’m still trying to feel out this 5160 set… not many have that I know of have gone this route… I know of you on here and the guy on YouTube and that’s it. The vast majority are running strictly Thuren with Fox’s, 5100’s or full blown Kings. The 5160’s only come with a 90 day warranty and are user rebuild able while their other options hold the “standard” year or two warranty.
 

White six four

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Thurens track bar should help a lot. According to them they're only good for around 20k miles or something like that. With leveling and bigger tires I tend to agree with them.
 
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GWOTRGR

GWOTRGR

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Thanks for this. I was looking at both their front and rear today. Trying to wrap my head around this. So far I’ve replaced the front right CV axle, starter, and I’m going on the 3rd suspension setup… I tallied everything up earlier:

Bilstein 5160’s: $1k
Thuren Front & Rear Bars: $1k
Toyo MT’s x 5: $2100
Ball Joints: $1k

Ball Park I’m looking at $5500 for parts. Add labor to that and I’m pretty close to $7k…..

Trying to figure out what to do. Keep moving forward with this one or start over with a 2024 Lunar….. owe $23k left on it.
 

mikegrook

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Can you send pictures of your front and rear shock setup? I’m trying to get as much info ahead of time as possible. I watched a YouTube video of a guy installing these on his power wagon and the rears were mounted “upside down” with the reservoirs attached to the main shock on the bottom?

Side Note, I’m still trying to feel out this 5160 set… not many have that I know of have gone this route… I know of you on here and the guy on YouTube and that’s it. The vast majority are running strictly Thuren with Fox’s, 5100’s or full blown Kings. The 5160’s only come with a 90 day warranty and are user rebuild able while their other options hold the “standard” year or two warranty.
I am running stock except for the shocks which are the 5160 and Nitto Ridge grappler's in 35x12.5. Loving the ride and the tires and would not go back. Hope this helps with your shock choice.
 
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GWOTRGR

GWOTRGR

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I am running stock except for the shocks which are the 5160 and Nitto Ridge grappler's in 35x12.5. Loving the ride and the tires and would not go back. Hope this helps with your shock choice.
Definitely does. How many miles does your truck have? And how many miles on the shocks? I’m trying to figure out if track bars are necessary at this point. I just hit 166,000.
 

olyelr

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Definitely does. How many miles does your truck have? And how many miles on the shocks? I’m trying to figure out if track bars are necessary at this point. I just hit 166,000.
A good track bar is a good idea when new. At 166k…um yea
 

mikegrook

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Definitely does. How many miles does your truck have? And how many miles on the shocks? I’m trying to figure out if track bars are necessary at this point. I just hit 166,000.
My mileage is nowhere near yours. I am just about to hit 54K.
 

soapy

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Glad you are having the same experience with the 5160s as me. I did order the Metalcloak rear 3.5 springs in case I need them in the future since they are on 25% discount this month.
 

jmo1986ny

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Any pics of the way your truck sits right now? Considering these shocks as well. Thanks!
 
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GWOTRGR

GWOTRGR

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Any pics of the way your truck sits right now? Considering these shocks as well. Thanks!
She sits like stock. I wouldn’t hesitate on these shocks. I had the remote reservoir adjustable Fox’s and would choose these 5160’s over them everyday
 
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