Timing change question

[Sirriggs]

Since my 99 Dodge ram is torn down. I am thinking about also doing the timing chain and gaskets. Since this is one thing that I have never done before so I am really doing some reading and you tube research before I make any attempt. The 5.2 motor has around 168,000 miles on it so I'm sure its due to be changed.

Is this task hard or pretty simple job? I have everything off the motor at this point so that is why I'm thinking of doing it now. Water pump was rusted from sitting so I will be replacing that as well. I know I have to get a puller for the job and that is fine.

Just trying to get some ideas of what to maybe look for or expect. I would like to do whats needed to avoid any gremlins when back together.lol

 

[Bear_Gibson]

I did cylinder heads and timing chain years ago. It was an all day project. I will say I have the 5.9, but they're essentially the same. Loosen the front oil pan bolts to remove the lower section of the timing cover. Use permatex rtv called "the right stuff" to seal things. Remove fan and fan shroud and you can stand inside the engine bay to do the work. Ac compressor need not be disconnected from the hoses. Just lay it outta the way. You need a harmonic balancer puller. A small gear puller would also be handy incase the crank sprocket is stubborn. Here's an idea, since you have to drain the coolant, I use a shop vac to suck out the coolant. Starting at the top radiator hose and radiator. Just shove the hose inside the radiator hose. Timing the engine is easy. I may have to remove my timing cover this weekend as well. I gotta do the plenum repair, and something up there is leaking coolant.

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[Bear_Gibson]

Also if you do not have a Dodge Factory service manual, let me know. I can email you a pdf version.

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[Sirriggs]

Pretty much everything you mentioned, I will be doing all in the same time period. I have the Chilton manual for Dodge as well as the ATSG manual for the transmission I have to look into next. I have a lot of work ahead of me but once done. I should be good for awhile. I have everything ordered for the intake job as well new valve cover gaskets. Trying to find the original paperwork for the water pump from NAPA but if not, then buy a new one. Everything is out of the front of the motor so I'm good there and the pan is just on by a couple bolts when I did the MM treatment to break the motor free. Its smooth moving so I'm good there. I just figured since the cover is there in the open. Why not replace the timing chain and gears now? Seeing its the only thing that I have never done before. I wanted to ask as well read and you tube as much information as possible. I'm a stickler doing things right the first time.

Now is there any difference Dodge Factory Manual and Chilton? That I'm not sure about. I'm looking at the timing chain set and they can go from $40.00 to over $100. I was figuring in the middle since funds are limited but don't want to go cheap either. I still have to by the pullers needed to do the job. What you think? Pretty much lining up the marks before removal then putting back in the same way is what I'm seeing.

Thanks so much.

 

[Bear_Gibson]

There is a huge difference between a Chilton's and the FSM. At least in my opinion. Lots of tiny details that only Dodge would know. The only 2 FSM's that can be found free are 98 and 2001. I can tell you from experience that the 99 wiring is far different than the 98, but the same as the 2001. The wiring information is above and beyond anything you will ever see in an aftermarket shop manual.

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[Bear_Gibson]

I used the stock timing set 5 years ago when I did mine. Some people swear by the double roller, but I don't see why.

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[pacofortacos]

Just get a chain and reuse your gears, they should be fine. I would also add the V6 tensioner and not look back.

 

[Bear_Gibson]

The difficult part about timing these engines is not the chain and the camshaft. It's actually setting the distributor. That procedure has to be performed with a Chrysler drb3 scan tool or a very high end professional scanner. Essentially what they do is align the cam sensor inside the distributor with the crankshaft . I doubt you'll have to mess with that. The intake comes off without removing the distributor. The sprockets will have marks. Put the chain on the crank sprocket. Then put the cam sprocket in the chain and align the right marks. Then bolt the cam sprocket on.

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[Bear_Gibson]

Just get a chain and reuse your gears, they should be fine. I would also add the V6 tensioner and not look back.

Why the v6 tensioner?

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[pacofortacos]

Because it will keep tension on the chain at all times vs. it just slapping around.
Is your stock chain even stretched much - the oem was a very good system.

 

[Bear_Gibson]

Because it will keep tension on the chain at all times vs. it just slapping around.
Is your stock chain even stretched much - the oem was a very good system.

Its been 5 years I could not remember if mine had a tensioner or not, so I assumed you were saying the v6 had a better tensioner.

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[Sirriggs]

Here are some pictures I took real quick. Now the wet you see is most likely Marvin Mystery oil I'm sure. Now whats behind is a mystery in its self. I'm a little confused why a V6 tensioner would become apart of this change? Its a 5.2 motor. Take a look and tell me what you think. I also show a picture of broken bolt in intake manifold. That I am done with trying to remove so I'm going to pay someone else to deal with. lol

 

[pacofortacos]

Its been 5 years I could not remember if mine had a tensioner or not, so I assumed you were saying the v6 had a better tensioner.

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Neither had a tensioner originally, I don't think. But they make a mopar tensioner for the V6 that is perfect for the V8.

 

[pacofortacos]

https://moparconnectionmagazine.com...s-engines-small-block-timing-chain-tensioner/

 

[Bear_Gibson]

Sirriggs, the 3.9 is the same as the 5.2 just with 2 less cylinders. Same design, bore and stroke. Basically a sawed off 5.2 the 5.9 is the same layout as well just different bore and stroke. Also the 5.9 is balanced different. They have the same Water pump, timing cover, accessory drive, and timing chain.

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[Bear_Gibson]

To remove that bolt put a.washer above it and weld it to the bolt with a mig welder. Then weld a nut to the washer. The heat will help loosen it and the nut will give you something to get a wrench on.

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[Sirriggs]

I may just put the timing chain on hold for now so I can get it back up and running as soon as possible and to save some cash up. Anyway. The bolt is broke about a 1/8 down. What you see is JB Weld. I was told to fill it then drill down since the bolt broke of on a bad angle. Well it didn't seem to want to work and I don't want to push it either with a hand drill. My small drill press wont allow me to access it. I don't have a welder either so I will let someone else who has the right tools do it. Found out the intake kit will be here by Friday so I'm going to pull the intake to get it down so hopefully get it back by then. If not, then I will have to wait but at least I can get everything ready by the time I get it back.

Thanks guys for all the advice and help.

 

[EvilSpirit]

Neither had a tensioner originally, I don't think. But they make a mopar tensioner for the V6 that is perfect for the V8.

My '99 V6 Dakota had a tensioner. Every time the lifter goes over the nose of a cam lobe, the cam tries to rotate or snap forward. They started putting the tensioners on the V6's to stop these harmonics. Apparently the V8's having more cylinders were smoother and didn't have the issue. It is a common upgrade to install them on V8's when putting the new chain on.

 

[pacofortacos]

My '99 V6 Dakota had a tensioner. Every time the lifter goes over the nose of a cam lobe, the cam tries to rotate or snap forward. They started putting the tensioners on the V6's to stop these harmonics. Apparently the V8's having more cylinders were smoother and didn't have the issue. It is a common upgrade to install them on V8's when putting the new chain on.

I couldn't remember if any of the later ones came with the tensioner or not - I guess they did.
I never owned a V6 and had worked on very few and even then mainly drive ability issues.
My Dakotas had a 5.2 and 5.9.

 

[Sirriggs]

Well I put the timing chin on hold for now since I don't remember having any issues there. I just figured I would since I was doing everything else but things are changing.

Well another episode of how your stomach turns. I did manage to get the hole drilled out and didn't really oversize it but now here is the catch. Being its so close the the Keg/Intake. I cant find a way to thread it for a bolt. I will attach a picture. I looked down into the intake and its extremely clean which means I might hold on to the kit I bought from Hughes for maybe down the road if needed but Yes but That may change if I have to remove the intake to have someone thread it for me? The tap i found is 5/16- 18. I will post a picture of it as well. Is there a way to find deep threading tool? It just seems something always stop me for a short time. Im going to search online to see if I can find anything but will check back and see if any of you might have a way to solve this issue. lol Thanks