Timing change question

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Bear_Gibson

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Do you have any 12 point sockets? Those work on taps with ratchets and extensions. Here's what I do at work 5/16 x 1/4" drive socket 5/16 hex x3/8 drive socket then I can use extensions after that. feaffddca2fbe5ab90cf2762ff4a3c5b.jpg7109bd6406c17a0a0687ddff0a3b2bb0.jpgda4a6d7ef2731dbee73158bdbdf083c1.jpg

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Bear_Gibson

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Another thought, getting to that timing chain is a pain when the truck is assembled, if you have a mind to do it, nows the time. A slack chain can rob you of fuel mileage and performance.

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Sirriggs

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Looking at your pictures helped a lot. I don't have any twelve point sockets or the T end like that but I can go to Home Depot or Lowe's and go through the single socket section and see if I can find something to fit the bit. I bought my tap and die from Harbor freight to save cash since I got both metric and American so this may be why I couldn't find a socket in my craftsman socket set that I can slide it in. Its like a odd ball size shaft. At least know I know what I need to do. I cant believe I didn't think of that. As many times I have used extensions lol.. I will run there in the morning and see if I can do. Thanks.
 

Bear_Gibson

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My 5/16 tap has a 1/4" square. Thats the same as a 1/4" drive socket. So plug the tap into the 1/4" drive side and use a bolt and nut to adapt to what other socket you have and use a large 3/8 ratchet. You don't nessecarily need a t handle, just a long extension.

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Sirriggs

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I just measured the shaft and it 3/16/ x3/16. So it a 1/16 shy of a 1/4. Well that's what I get for shopping Harbor freight lol. I could find a smaller kit with a 5/16 with a quarter shaft so I could use my extension. They aren't that expensive for a small kit.
 

Bear_Gibson

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Shim it with a piece of tin or aluminum on both sides. Or use a small 12 point socket. Don't discount metric and standard sizes. They do make long tap handles.

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Sirriggs

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I thought about that but didn't want to mess anything up. I found a 1/4 tap bit at Home Depot. Weather is acting up but will try to get by there today and double check it. I have to thread stripped out bolt hole in transmission as well. It seems the last place I trusted for oil change over a few years ago stripped the thread and didn't say anything. Thankful there was enough thread left that I still have the bolt in there. Just so sad.

I have it about where I should be able to lubricate the motor for a fresh start in about a week. Last thing left will be a new water pump. Then it on to the transmission. It was slipping a little after replacing the spring in the transmission. I'm going to torque the bands to factory setting and see if that helps? If not, then save the cash for a rebuild.

I have been turning the motor over every few days with small can to squirt the cylinders to keep it smooth and clean. I figure just before I do the start, I will replace the valave cover gaskets with a light clean and oil so they wont be dry when its ready.

Thanks Bear for all the advice you given.
 
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Sirriggs

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I seem something about them and if this doesn't work. They may be the next move. I did go to home depot and found a better tap with drill bit. Its still needs some rigging so I tried and used some thread tape I had and its snugged up pretty good with a socket. I don't have any 12 point ones so I have to make do with what I have. I could not find a T like yours so I will use vice grips with some tape to make something close. I'm about already $700 in with tools and parts.lol. I'm only begun my journey with this truck. Its a labor of love not for money.

I still have to drop the tank for a good cleaning and flushing fuel line. Im in the process of removing the fuel rail to clean and paint. I'm going to remove clean and paint valve covers also. Once I get everything done and back together. I'm going to fully clean and pressure wash the motor and post some pictures.
 

Bear_Gibson

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I seem something about them and if this doesn't work. They may be the next move. I did go to home depot and found a better tap with drill bit. Its still needs some rigging so I tried and used some thread tape I had and its snugged up pretty good with a socket. I don't have any 12 point ones so I have to make do with what I have. I could not find a T like yours so I will use vice grips with some tape to make something close. I'm about already $700 in with tools and parts.lol. I'm only begun my journey with this truck. Its a labor of love not for money.

I still have to drop the tank for a good cleaning and flushing fuel line. Im in the process of removing the fuel rail to clean and paint. I'm going to remove clean and paint valve covers also. Once I get everything done and back together. I'm going to fully clean and pressure wash the motor and post some pictures.
Only 700, you're just getting started[emoji1787]. You don't have to use a t handle. You can use a wrench or anything else for that matter.

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Sirriggs

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LOL, Don't jinx me. Fighting the fuel line release now. Sprayed some PB blaster in it and letting it sit over night. I want to scuff it and paint it so no further rust. Working on it has been very therapeutic for me. Tomorrow if rain stays away I'm going to clean the motor some and get it ready for the new water pump. I really didn't have any issues with the motor before it sat so I should be ok there. Turned it over yesterday and you can hear the compression which sounded pretty good. my guess would be with the pan off is the only reason I had to break it loose. That was very easy only a couple of back and forth did the job. The click I heard was most likely one of the rings being stuck but now its smooth as heck now. I will though do a cold and warm compression check once it ready.

The transmission is my biggest concern. It was slipping a little after I replaced that spring. It was broke in half. I'm going to torque the bands down to factory specs and fill it. Then take see if it still has that slippage. From there is going to be another journey. That's where cost concerns me since rebuilding them isn't cheap. We have a good transmission guy here that is pretty honest. not like the Hurst guy was that I first tried. I may see how much it would save me if I drop it and just have a rebuild done and put it back in myself. I replaced the 2 sensors and speed sensor back when it was driving. I have talked your ear off. lol


Thanks
 

Bear_Gibson

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You could help the transmission with a transgo reprogramming kit. It raises the line pressure and firms up the shifts.

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Sirriggs

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Thanks, That was a great read. Definitely going to look into that. I never heard of them but just reading it talked about what I do believe was the issue for the Dodge to be parked in the first place. The only reason the oil pan was removed was over a broken dipstick I was trying to get out. Well during the process I tried to remove the tube only to have it snap off. I was told to remove the pan to tap the tube out of the block from below. Well Dodge has only a slit there to prevent the tube from getting into the pan so that was a waste of time and bad information I got. Either way that is solved now so Its time to get her back together so I can at least turn her over and let her run after I get her lubricated first.

It took a few minutes but removed fuel rail. I have cleaned it and painted it to prevent any future rust down the road. 9It also looks good now) I'm going to flush and clean the injectors both was to ensure no trash is in them and replace with new seals. I have to drop the tank and clean it due to sitting so long and and back flush lines to remove anything in it. I was surprised the line still had some pressure after all this time sitting.

My goal right now is to get the motor back together fill and lube. Then adjust transmission and fill it , then clean fuel system for a fresh start. Then once this is completed. I can fix anything If needed and start the process of getting her road ready again. I still have to run through the breaks, tires, rear end fluid change. So I will be on the forums pretty often with questions. I honestly cant wait to have her back up and running. We had very little problems with the truck to begin with other then what Dodge is known for but even very few of those.

Again I thank you for your time and knowledge you have shared. It has helped me a lot.
 

Bear_Gibson

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Lol, i broke my damn dipstick yesterday. I did manage to finally get it out with a drill and a wood screw. I tried to remove the tube, but I'm assuming they glued it in. I replaced the plenum gasket, but I have still yet to figure out why my engine is pretending to be a go kart engine with a big a$$ turbo.

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Bear_Gibson

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You're welcome.

Mark 12:31 love thy neighbor

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Sirriggs

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Yeah I guess or its just doesn't want to come out once in so long. I tried to twist it back and forth. That's when the tube broke. Have everything new there now.

Well getting greedy to get a tad more depth for the new bolt just set me back. It broke through but just a tad. I'm posting a picture. What concerns me is taping the threads what can go through that small hole. I'm debating on just taking the intake out to get the threading done so i don't have to worry about dropping any shavings into the motor. I already have the kit anyway. I'm really mad at myself right now. I know better than that. Intakes aren't cheap or that easy to find. Being aluminum I don't know if it could be repaired but its in a bolt hole so it could be sealed up with the bolt and maybe some thread tape? What you think?

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Sirriggs

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I'm not sure what you mean by go-cart with turbo. lol I believe this truck was being sluggish that led me to the changing of the plume. tranny problems were of the limp mode that brought attention to several replacement parts other then the issue with over drive that led me to changing the spring. Only after that did I experienced the slippage. That's why I'm thinking a band adjustment should hopefully correct that? crossing fingers.
 
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