Transmission Stuck in 4th Gear

[JW2 Innovations]

I had a 5.7l in a Jeep GC 4x4 that gave me some shifting fun when the transmission fluid level was a little low. Once I got the rear seal replaced where small leak was and level right all my issues went away. I was convinced it was the solenoid valve after chasing several things, even replaced it!

Wiring to transmission can cause limp mode as well. Worn/shorted at top side of transmission just behind intake near firewall I've had to repair once for same limp mode symptoms. Little room there so hope yours isn't that one.

Good luck and keep sharing so others can help where they can. Great set of resources here.

 

[Ludville1]

I had a 5.7l in a Jeep GC 4x4 that gave me some shifting fun when the transmission fluid level was a little low. Once I got the rear seal replaced where small leak was and level right all my issues went away. I was convinced it was the solenoid valve after chasing several things, even replaced it!

Wiring to transmission can cause limp mode as well. Worn/shorted at top side of transmission just behind intake near firewall I've had to repair once for same limp mode symptoms. Little room there so hope yours isn't that one.

Good luck and keep sharing so others can help where they can. Great set of resources here.

The transmission fluid is full and looks clean. Thanks for your input, I will check things out, and report back if I find anything obvious. I usually put the truck in storage December 1st (after Michigan's firearm deer season ends) to help save the truck from the Michigan Winter (salt and chemicals on the roads). So I filled the gas tank and added Stabil for storage. It will get put away a couple of weeks early this year. I will use my wife's Jeep for hunting season, and mainly resume checking the truck out in the Spring. Next Spring I already had planned to do upper and lower radiator hoses, starter, trans. fluid and filter(s), transfer case input shaft seal (small leak), and maybe brakes. Also, the annual oil and filter change with Redline 5w30 and RP 20-820 filter. The truck is only driven 2K-3K miles a year.

 

[Ludville1]

Put the truck up on ramps today and pulled/checked the TRS plug. I could tell that there was some corrosion in there because it was so difficult to pull the plug off of the TRS connector. Sure enough, it was quite green in there. I first blew out the plug and connector, sprayed both with contact cleaner, and gently went over the pins with a toothbrush, blew them both out, and used dielectric grease sparingly on both. Took a short drive, fine so far. The only way that I will know for sure is to drive it some. I will post my findings. Thanks for all of the suggestions!

 

[Sherman Bird]

Sounds like the shift solenoid is a common problem on these trucks.

"The" shift solenoid!? There are several. There is also a TCC solenoid, pressure control solenoid, TCC PWM solenoid...AFL (Actuator feed limit) PWM solenoid...Yup! It's a really busy place there inside of a modern automatic transmission.

 

[Ludville1]

"The" shift solenoid!? There are several. There is also a TCC solenoid, pressure control solenoid, TCC PWM solenoid...AFL (Actuator feed limit) PWM solenoid...Yup! It's a really busy place there inside of a modern automatic transmission.

For sure! I was just telling my wife recently...I miss the simplicity of the Turbo 350 and Turbo 400 transmissions that my vehicles had and I maintained, even though they were 3 speed automatics.

 

[Sherman Bird]

For sure! I was just telling my wife recently...I miss the simplicity of the Turbo 350 and Turbo 400 transmissions that my vehicles had and I maintained, even though they were 3 speed automatics.

The crazy irony is the venerable AOD Ford unit was capable of being 55% stronger than a TH 400 with some modifications... and have overdrive and converter lockup. I cut my professional teeth on 400's, 350's, C-4's, C-6's, FMX's, 727 Torqueflight, 904's. Ah the memories!

 

[Ludville1]

Same issue. Took a test drive after checking/cleaning the TRS connection. Was fine until about 20 miles into the drive, then went into limp mode again. Shutting the truck off will reset it, but as soon as you start driving again, it goes into limp mode. Seems to be temperature related, as starting off when the truck is cold, it's fine for the first 20 miles or so. Shows a code PO841 again.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

because it was so difficult to pull the plug off of the TRS connector. Sure enough, it was quite green in there. I first blew out the plug and connector, sprayed both with contact cleaner, and gently went over the pins with a toothbrush, blew them both out, and used dielectric grease sparingly on both. Took a short drive, fine so far.

Wonder if there is some corrosion inside that plug, Ohm it out you may have to replace that plug.

 

[Hemi395]

@Ludville1 here is the code set criteria and possible causes for P0841 according to alldata:

When Monitored and Set Conditions​

When Monitored:

• This diagnostic runs continuously when the engine is running.

Set Conditions:

• The L/R Pressure Switch reads open or closed at the wrong time in a given gear.

Possible Causes​ ​
LOSS OF PRIME AND/OR TCM POWER INPUT DTCS PRESENT​
LOW FLUID LEVEL​
LOW LINE PRESSURE​
REVERSE CARRIER SNAP RING DISLODGED​
CRACKED OR MIS-INSTALLED PRIMARY OIL FILTER OR FILTER SEAL​
STICKING MAIN REGULATOR VALVE IN PUMP VALVE BODY​
NO. 1 CHECK BALL CUT OR DAMAGED​
WIRING AND CONNECTORS​
L/R PRESSURE CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN​
L/R PRESSURE CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND​
L/R PRESSURE CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE​
TRANSMISSION SOLENOID/TRS ASSEMBLY​
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)​

Hope this helps!

 

[Ludville1]

@Ludville1 here is the code set criteria and possible causes for P0841 according to alldata:

When Monitored and Set Conditions​

When Monitored:

• This diagnostic runs continuously when the engine is running.

Set Conditions:

• The L/R Pressure Switch reads open or closed at the wrong time in a given gear.

​

​ Possible Causes​
LOSS OF PRIME AND/OR TCM POWER INPUT DTCS PRESENT​
LOW FLUID LEVEL​
LOW LINE PRESSURE​
REVERSE CARRIER SNAP RING DISLODGED​
CRACKED OR MIS-INSTALLED PRIMARY OIL FILTER OR FILTER SEAL​
STICKING MAIN REGULATOR VALVE IN PUMP VALVE BODY​
NO. 1 CHECK BALL CUT OR DAMAGED​
WIRING AND CONNECTORS​
L/R PRESSURE CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN​
L/R PRESSURE CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND​
L/R PRESSURE CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE​
TRANSMISSION SOLENOID/TRS ASSEMBLY​
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)​

Hope this helps!

Thanks! I really suspect connector/wiring/ground issue(s), with the sporadic problem. One way or another, it will get sorted out and fixed next Spring. Just filled the tank and added Stabil, washed it and went over it with detail spray, for the big nap. Such a nice truck.

 

[Ludville1]

Update: The weather has been unusually mild here, so I ordered a new Mopar shift solenoid kit that included the two transmission filters and a pan gasket. Got the truck out and did the job yesterday. Took quite a nice drive in it today, and everything seems fine. I think that the shift solenoid did the trick. Should be good to go for the Spring.

 

[Ludville1]

Oh, I also added a transmission pan with a drain plug. It will make transmission service in the future easier and less messy.

 

[Hemi395]

Update: The weather has been unusually mild here, so I ordered a new Mopar shift solenoid kit that included the two transmission filters and a pan gasket. Got the truck out and did the job yesterday. Took quite a nice drive in it today, and everything seems fine. I think that the shift solenoid did the trick. Should be good to go for the Spring.

So overall it wasn't a bad job to change the solenoid pack?

Which pan did you get?

 

[Ludville1]

Really wasn't too bad. The TRS plug was a bit of a struggle to remove from the solenoid pack, mainly because it's hard to get to because the shift linkage and front driveshaft are right in the way. I watched a couple of youtubes on doing the job, and learned from their mistakes. I ordered the Dorman pan with the drain plug from Rockauto for around $36. It seems to be of good quality. My only regret was not thinking ahead and going to a better (Royal Purple or Wix) spin on trans. filter at this time. I went with the stock spin on filter because that is what I had, came with the kit. Next time.

 

[Hemi395]

Thats great news, glad you were able to fix it! The good thing about the RFEs is they're relatively easy to work on.

Did the Dorman pan fit right, specifically around the spin on filter? I'm assuming so since you're back up and running lol. I tried one years ago and it wouldn't seat up against the trans housing unless I really pushed it. I ended up putting the factory pan back on and ordering a MagHytec pan...

 

[buckeyexx]

Thats great news, glad you were able to fix it! The good thing about the RFEs is they're relatively easy to work on.

Did the Dorman pan fit right, specifically around the spin on filter? I'm assuming so since you're back up and running lol. I tried one years ago and it wouldn't seat up against the trans housing unless I really pushed it. I ended up putting the factory pan back on and ordering a MagHytec pan...

There are two different pans for the rfe trans. One is a deep pan for 4 wheel drive and the other is a shallow pan for 2 wheel drive trucks. I almost made the mistake of ordering the wrong pan the first time I did my trans.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Glad it was a simple fix. Watch that Doorman pan for leaks. They are hit and miss.

 

[Ludville1]

Thats great news, glad you were able to fix it! The good thing about the RFEs is they're relatively easy to work on.

Did the Dorman pan fit right, specifically around the spin on filter? I'm assuming so since you're back up and running lol. I tried one years ago and it wouldn't seat up against the trans housing unless I really pushed it. I ended up putting the factory pan back on and ordering a MagHytec pan...

Thanks! Yes, the Dorman pan fit perfect.

 

[Ludville1]

Glad it was a simple fix. Watch that Doorman pan for leaks. They are hit and miss.

Thanks! I will keep an eye on the Dorman pan.

 

[Hemi395]

There are two different pans for the rfe trans. One is a deep pan for 4 wheel drive and the other is a shallow pan for 2 wheel drive trucks. I almost made the mistake of ordering the wrong pan the first time I did my trans.

Yeah it was the 4x4 version. The problem I had with it was it wasn't formed right around the spin on filter. It was like it wasn't fully stamped...