U010C

[Runaround]

My 2018 has the code U010C. It seems to be running fine, maybe a little bit underpowered. I can build 15 psi boost empty.
What can I do to diagnose/troubleshoot this problem?

 

[06 Dodge]

My 2018 has the code U010C. It seems to be running fine, maybe a little bit underpowered. I can build 15 psi boost empty.
What can I do to diagnose/troubleshoot this problem?

Go to the following URL then look about half way down the page: https://www.obd-codes.com/u010c or https://carscounsel.com/u010c-code/

 

[mtnrider]

Most likely your actuator is failing, that's a pretty common code when it starts to go. You will probably lose the exhaust brake all together soon.

When it goes I would suggest the City Diesel replacement actuator, it's built beefier then the stock actuator and does not require alignment so you can replace it yourself.

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[Runaround]

Most likely your actuator is failing, that's a pretty common code when it starts to go. You will probably lose the exhaust brake all together soon.

When it goes I would suggest the City Diesel replacement actuator, it's built beefier then the stock actuator and does not require alignment so you can replace it yourself.

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My exhaust brake quit a couple months ago.

 

[Runaround]

Is the turbocharger control module the same thing as the actuator or is it something else? If it’s something else what and where do I need to look on a 2018 Ram?

 

[star_deceiver]

U010C is a communication code. If it’s the actuator you should have other codes as well like PF84 and P003a as I recall.

If you only have the U010C and no other codes, look for a loose wire, bad connection, something unplugged, unseated relay or fuse, ect.

 

[mtnrider]

Is the turbocharger control module the same thing as the actuator or is it something else? If it’s something else what and where do I need to look on a 2018 Ram?

Yes, same thing. The circuit card in the actuator is prone to failure that's whay you get the loss of communication code.

As suggeted you can verify the wiring looks good but I'll bet it's the actuator itself, it's a very common failure.

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[Runaround]

What is your thoughts on the turbo possibly being bad at 175k miles causing the actuator to fail, also I have been driving for a couple of months this way.

 

[mtnrider]

What is your thoughts on the turbo possibly being bad at 175k miles causing the actuator to fail, also I have been driving for a couple of months this way.

Almost never the turbo. You can test it when you remove the actuator and flipping the control lever, if it moves freely its fine.

People will say "sticking veins" can cause the failure but I'll be honest that's Extremly rare and mostly isolated to older trucks (pre DEF) that used 100% EGR to reduce Nox.

I'm sure your turbo has life left in it and is not the cause but if you feel you want to swap the whole thing while your there and have the funds that is certainly understandable.

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[Runaround]

I’m not wanting to spend more than I have to but I also want it to last. I’ve read a lot saying you can put a new actuator on and it might last a month or maybe even a year. As I said I really don’t want to spend more than I have to but don’t want to waste $1000 if it will last only a year or less.

 

[mtnrider]

I’m not wanting to spend more than I have to but I also want it to last. I’ve read a lot saying you can put a new actuator on and it might last a month or maybe even a year. As I said I really don’t want to spend more than I have to but don’t want to waste $1000 if it will last only a year or less.

Understandable, problem is there is so much mis-information out there on these trucks it's hard to seperate truth from fiction or lack plain of knowledge, especially on social media.
It's rare for the Turbo to fail but it does happen. I think most of these cases of not lasting long after repair were do to people not using a good OEM part or using a re-manufactired actuator etc. (and some are just complete incompetence)

Unfortuently there is no crystal ball so other then checking that the actuator arm moves freely once removed it's going to be a crap shoot.

 

[Runaround]

Well I might just roll the dice and claim they said actuator was bad. I really don’t think the turbo would be too gummed up since this truck is mainly highway driven and whenever I do idle it I idle it up.
The truck has more miles than I was thinking, it has 183000. I bought it February 13,2024 with 123k on it. It rarely pulls or hauls anything.

 

[06 Dodge]

Well I might just roll the dice and claim they said actuator was bad. I really don’t think the turbo would be too gummed up since this truck is mainly highway driven and whenever I do idle it I idle it up.
The truck has more miles than I was thinking, it has 183000. I bought it February 13,2024 with 123k on it. It rarely pulls or hauls anything.

BTW when was the last time the EGR was cleaned, If hope you followed the advice for trouble shooting at the second URL I gave you above, if not then you then have 2 choices take a change an just the actuator or buy a rebuild turbo that has a new actuator like the one from City Diesel, the one they sell is plug & play no code updates needed...

 

[Runaround]

I will be testing the wiring for power, ground and continuity at the turbo actuator once I get back home. I’m out of town working right now.
I haven’t done anything to this truck in the two years I’ve owned it other than oil changes, air filter changes, fuel filters and CCV filter.
I’ve never cleaned the EGR.