I can't help you here other than to say if you're motivated give it a go. I would think you could do this in a fairly un-invasive way ( some jumper wires ) so that you could just test it and if it's not to your liking revert back to what you're already working with ( ??? ).
I could be wrong but even if I decide to try it this way, it’s not gonna be that easy because in order to make sure I’ve got the right wires and due to the fact that some of these manufacturers like to change too many things throughout the years as they go by like in wiring identification, I’m probably gonna have to just pull the front door panels off and trace the wires to make sure I’ve got the right ones to cut and splice into but once I do that, I’m gonna have to start over with my Kicker Keylock so that it can go through it’s initial set up with the new source of speaker wires it’s receiving so, that’s gonna take time but if I do this, I’m probably just gonna leave it that way because I really don’t think it would be any worse using the front subs instead of the rear subwoofer output but if the technician from kicker is right, the signal going to my rear amp should be at least a little bit better and hopefully not worse so it would be a permanent thing.
My 2016 had the alpine setup from the factory ( laramie ). Based on what I had read, those that were pulling signals for LOCs, were pulling from the rear for a full signal.
Yours very well could be, I just don’t know. I was very late coming to the game with a fourth gen pick up because even though they came out in 2009, I didn’t get one until 2018.
I just know that on my 2008 3rd GEN that had the Infinity Audio System, there wasn’t a factory speaker in that truck that was putting out the full complete signal and even though I haven’t verified it yet in my 2018, I think it’s pretty much the same because if you turn the rear sub amp’s volume all the way down, the only bass that you feel is from the front door 6X9’s. The rear 6X9’s don’t bump at all and the speakers I replaced the factory ones with are a 3-way Infinity Reference.
I realize it now, but the day I replaced all my speakers, I could’ve just gotten away with probably a little bit cheaper 6 1/2 speaker to go in my rear doors with a 6x9 to round 6-1/4, 6-1/2 adapter but I just went with what Crutchfield recommended to me.
Definitely don't need full for a subwoofer but I personally prefer an unmolested signal to start with for anything I'm wiring up. Just my preference though.
I hear ya and I completely understand. I mean hell, even with the technology my kicker keylock has, you’re probably getting a little bit better signal to your subwoofer’s amp by pulling it straight from the radio. I just didn’t wanna spend more money than I had to just to run a couple of subs…lol.
Sorry wish I had more to offer you.
It’s cool, I figure somebody on here has to have a pretty good idea about this stuff, but I’m almost to the point of just trying it anyway and kind of in relation to what I said at the beginning of my post, as long as it sounds somewhat the same or maybe a little better, that’s all I’m after.
I will say this, though… Back when I had my third GEN, I had bought one of those loaded MTX Thunderform enclosures that already had two 10 inch subwoofers installed along with its own amp that you just hooked up the box and once I finally got around to replacing the factory radio with an aftermarket one, I really didn’t notice much of a change in bass quality by using the rear pre-outs on the new radio as opposed to pulling the amp’s signal from the front door of subwoofer 6 x 9’s in that truck when the factory radio was being used. I actually thought the sound quality would’ve increased, but it was roughly the same.
But then again, I didn’t have anything else to compare it to because as per the directions of the MTX box, they said to pull the signal from the rear door speakers, which I did, but it never really did sound exactly right and it was because I found out later on that the rear door speakers in that truck were pretty much the same as the rear speakers in my current truck to where all they carry is just the mids and the highs so once I tapped into the front door subs, it got way better.
At this point, I just don’t know if it’s going to really increase like that going from the rear subwoofer wires to the front door subwoofer wires.