Windshield to cowl seal ? again Also upper Windshield gap Possible solution?

[TJP440]

I know this has been posted many times but my panel is in good shape it is just the seal is beginning to lift in a few areas at the glass. So, I am wondering the following:
1. have they done anything to improve the part or fix the problem. I squeak at buying new (tightass) but would be more inclined if the part was upgraded.
2. has any one tried any of the replacement seal options on amazon or elsewhere with good results. Link To Examples

On the upper windshield gap that has also been mention a few times has anyone tried something like these? there are other versions and a Automotive glass shop might be a better source for both but thought it might be worthwhile to ask here before trying to reinvent the wheel

Example 1 Example 2

 

[hogan1945]

Here is what I did for upper window gap. took about 5 min. to install rubber molding

 

[turkeybird56]

That looks well done. Any particular seal and glue?

 

[TJP440]

Here is what I did for upper window gap. took about 5 min. to install rubber moldingView attachment 564475View attachment 564476

Do you have a source/ part number?
looks like it belongs there
any adhesive used? if so what brand type?
last question, how long has it been installed ?
TIA

 

[hogan1945]

Used this, but pulled apart. Only use half, and has its own adhesive.

Amazon.com

 

[TJP440]

Used this, but pulled apart. Only use half, and has its own adhesive.

Amazon.com

thanks

 

[Jeepwalker]

Looks good now but really needs to be automotive-grade adhesives so it doesn't fall off in a couple yrs. But keep us up to speed at time goes by..

 

[TJP440]

Looks good now but really needs to be automotive-grade adhesives so it doesn't fall off in a couple yrs. But keep us up to speed at time goes by.

per The description it is

M-D Building Products 01025 17 ft. Black Small Rubber Auto & Marine Weatherseal for All Climates


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[CanuckRam1313]

That DIY seal does look great; like an OEM installed piece.

I will toss this out here though...

Installing a seal that has its own little adhesive strip is good as it can just be ripped out if the windshield ever needs replacement.

However, if one permanently seals a strip in there (with urethane or silicone) and the windshield ever needs to be replaced, one will be giving their glass tech a much more difficult job that can also have some possibilities of damage to the roof panel and/or the paint.

That "valley" is there so the external glass cut-out tool can easily go in and the glass tech can do their job with zero changes of damages.

What I did with my truck (this new one and my previous one) was to have a 15" wide (and full width of the windshield/roof panel) piece of premium X-Pel PPF installed on the top trailing edge of the windshield/roof panel with the PPF tucked all the way down into the bottom of that valley.

This part of any vehicle really takes a beating, especially on highways at speed.

It's constantly getting peppered with debris (like a sand blaster) and also taking direct hits from larger debris as well, causing pitting, deep paint gouges, and denting on those big hits.

The front A-pillars are also a great place for PPF as well

 

[Wild one]

per The description it is

M-D Building Products 01025 17 ft. Black Small Rubber Auto & Marine Weatherseal for All Climates​

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Did you use any cleaning products and adhesion promoter when you installed it.I'm a firm believer in cleaning the hell out of anything and then applying a thin layer of adhesion promoter that i'm installing a sticky side rubber strip to

 

[TJP440]

Did you use any cleaning products and adhesion promoter when you installed it.I'm a firm believer in cleaning the hell out of anything and then applying a thin layer of adhesion promoter that i'm installing a sticky side rubber strip to

45+ years ago I lost a bet to my new boss at Intel. lets just say he instructed me on the correct way to apply adhesives and I've never forgotten it or him. I learned a lot from that man.

 

[TJP440]

I was short on time when I wrote the above, should have stated,
1. Using a clean white paper towel, clean both surfaces with Acetone or suitable solvent until there is no residual contaminants visually left on the towel. Then do it one one time . This will remove any mold release or oils. If you bypass this step you will transfer and spread those onto the sandpaper and grooves in step 2
2. Follow by sanding if possible, with a 220 or so grit. The scratches / groove allow more surface area for the adhesive to bond to. This should be done on all molded gaskets IE: vinyl, silicone, rubber etc.
Depending on the materials and size of the area IE: bondo / body panel one can go up 80 grit.
3. Repeat step 1.
4. Using a clean paper towel again, switch to alcohol (not the drinking kind) and repeat step 1.
5. Follow the manufacturers directions regarding curing / full strength time, and THEIR adhesion promoters etc. Adhesion promoters weren't around when I lost my bet. But I also later learned the manufacturers are usually smarter than we, the users are.

BTW: The bet was the the RTV adhesive he wanted me to use would not bond the vinyl gasket to a stainless steel door. He prepped and installed a short piece. 24 hours later the gasket tore while trying to remove it .
The boss was quite happy and thanked me for paying for his lunch that week

 

[Wild one]

I was short on time when I wrote the above, should have stated,
1. Using a clean white paper towel, clean both surfaces with Acetone or suitable solvent until there is no residual contaminants visually left on the towel. Then do it one one time . This will remove any mold release or oils. If you bypass this step you will transfer and spread those onto the sandpaper and grooves in step 2
2. Follow by sanding if possible, with a 220 or so grit. The scratches / groove allow more surface area for the adhesive to bond to. This should be done on all molded gaskets IE: vinyl, silicone, rubber etc.
Depending on the materials and size of the area IE: bondo / body panel one can go up 80 grit.
3. Repeat step 1.
4. Using a clean paper towel again, switch to alcohol (not the drinking kind) and repeat step 1.
5. Follow the manufacturers directions regarding curing / full strength time, and THEIR adhesion promoters etc. Adhesion promoters weren't around when I lost my bet. But I also later learned the manufacturers are usually smarter than we, the users are.

BTW: The bet was the the RTV adhesive he wanted me to use would not bond the vinyl gasket to a stainless steel door. He prepped and installed a short piece. 24 hours later the gasket tore while trying to remove it .
The boss was

LOL i do exactly the same thing,except i'll skip the sanding if the surface is smooth and not to shiny after the acetone cleaning, depending on what i'm sticking together Damn price of adhesion promoter has gone through the roof since covid,but then again everything else has skyrocketed in the last few years