Sliding rear window seal replacement my experience ;)

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TJP440

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I am hoping this may help someone else as I could not find any "useful" information anywhere. I did find some scary videos. This process is best performed with the seat out or folded down.

1. I would suggest buying from a known mopar source. While I believe I likely did get factory seals through the majority of the experience I was questioning the source and whether they may be 2nds or 3rds. In addition the instructions had been copied so many time they were near illegible.
2. Take lots of pictures from many different angles and positions. Both inside and out. Film is unbelievably cheap these days (LOL) and they are easily deleted when no longer needed
3. Take accurate measurements for reference. Again multiple reference points but primarily vertical and horizontally.
4. The time spent doing the above will pay you back 10 fold or more.

5. Removing the window is the easy part, plenty of info so I'm not going to repeat it
6. Once the window is out the fun begins. I removed the exiting seals with a single edge razor blade. Having several NEW QUALITY blades on hand will be very useful.
7. I cut the seals as close to the glass and horizontal tracks as possible while pulling the seal with light pressure.
8. Once the seals were removed I made a few more passes with a new blade to remove as much of the goo as possible.
9. I used 3M trim and adhesive remover as I have found it to be "friendly" to most materials. LINKY other chemicals may work but I did not try them.
10. Putting a small amount on a cotton ball, paper towel etc. wipe the area down you'll be working on and let it soak for 30 or so seconds. Attack the residual glue again with the single edge razor. Repeat as needed wiping the goop off the blade. I found going from different directions and occasionally flipping the blade was helpful. This is a bit time consuming and one of the more difficult tasks in replacing the seals.
11. Once ALL the glue is removed, clean all areas with alcohol several times using clean folded paper towels. Cleanliness of the bonding area cannot be stressed enough.
12. Using you measurements and pics from steps 2 and 3, do a trial fitment. Having a second pair of hands/eyes is helpful during the following steps.
13. You will note there are cutouts at the top and bottom channels. One would think they locate the vertical seals as they fit perfectly EXCEPT the seals are too short to engage both. Maybe a nickel saving cost cutting? :mad: They were the same length as the ones removed
14. The horizontal seal should butt snugly against the vertical seals.
NOTES: Both of the NEW horizontal seals were longer than the originals.
One of the new horizontal seals was ~ 1/16'' of an inch shorter than
the other. If you want a leak free install you'll have to compensate for
this when locating the vertical seals.
15. I found it best to measure and mark the exact center of the horizontal seals as well as the window openings. This allowed centering of both seals.
16. Wipe again alcohol a few times. Let it dry and follow with the adhesion promoter. DO NOT touch the surfaces after doing so.
17. The seals come with what appear to be scotch tape at one end. It is there to Peel the covering back without touching the adhesive.
NOTE: You get one shot at positioning the seals so work slowly and carefully
18. On the Horizontal seals, I used a X-acto knife to split the adhesive covering in the middle. I raised a small portion of the covering. This allowed lining up the centering without exposing all the adhesive and possible contaminating it.
NOTE: When installing, The outer lip of the seal must be FLUSH with the ledges of the openings.
Once centered and attached in the middle, I slowly peeled the remainder of that side as I attached it.
19. Peel the remaining adhesive cover from the center to the opposite side.
20, Firmly press the adhesive from the opposite side to further spreading the adhesive to the surface. It is advised to do this repeatedly with a roller or suitable hard instrument
21. Trial fit one of the vertical seals and when positioned where you are happy with it, mark the seal to the edge of the window.
BE AWARE THAT THEY ARE SHORT ENOUGH TO NOT SEAL PROPERLY IF NOT ALIGNED.
22. Using your alignment mark begin attaching the seal at either end making sure it is firmly butted up against the Horizontal seals.
23. Repeat for remaining seal.
24. After the adhesive has had time to bond (depends on temp), reinstall the center glass, close it and check your work
Sorry for any typos :Insane::insane::mf_pcwhack::Pshyco:
 
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Dark Helmut

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Hi
First time posting.
I’ve been searching for information on my slider window hoping to find info on seal replacement. I had leaks and found the drain holes and was hoping to widen the drains but was also thinking the seals must be shot
I saw your post and wanted to know
1. What brought you to that point?
2. What year vehicle?.
3. Can you recommend a reliable company?
I have a 2011 1500. Been working all kinds of bugs out. Thinking of installing a button start but leaks take the lead.
Thanks Ron
 
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TJP440

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2024
Posts
329
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Location
omaha
Ram Year
2014
Engine
hemi
Hi
First time posting.
I’ve been searching for information on my slider window hoping to find info on seal replacement. I had leaks and found the drain holes and was hoping to widen the drains but was also thinking the seals must be shot
I saw your post and wanted to know
1. What brought you to that point?
2. What year vehicle?.
3. Can you recommend a reliable company?
I have a 2011 1500. Been working all kinds of bugs out. Thinking of installing a button start but leaks take the lead.
Thanks Ron
I had recently bought the vehicle with low mileage and extremely good condition (2014 with 65K). It did have a leak "trail" in the LR corner of the cab. In reading various posts on this forum I became aware off the drain issue.
The bottom horizontal seal was worn on the R side where it is supposed to seal against the vertical seal. really don't know if it was leaking enough to cause the leak if the drains on the LR had not been plugged.
I elected to change the seals. I would advise to go with the dealer or OEM source to avoid any chance of knockoffs.
 
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